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Old 05-21-2006, 11:48 PM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
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Thumbs up HF Sand Blaster S-38375 A product review

The Sand Blaster , It needs some modification right out of the box .
Bad points
1. It needs to have a SS valve at the nozzle end of the hose
2. the undercarriage is a joke but the average person IF they are careful and don't move it with sand in the vessel it will last awhile
3. I needs a bigger media port and the hole in the funnel is too small .
Good points
1. it was fairly easy to assemble
2. It does the intended function quite well , ran 300# of sand without any trouble .
3. Holds about 160# to 170# of sand , would not try to move it with that much sand in it , but that is a lot of run time .
Here are some pictures of the sand blaster and the results .
All in all , I would say I rate this a BUY , if you can get it on sale like I did. The 10 gallon one I would NOT buy , this is the 20 gallon model and is a better item then the 10 gallon one . I have used both and do not like the smaller one , to much trouble with it .

Read and heed all warnings about the dust produced while sand blasting . Buy a Hepa rated resiprator ,DO NOT try to save a few bucks here !!! YOU will regret it later !!!
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Last edited by Lu47Dan; 05-22-2006 at 12:11 AM. Reason: Added warning
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2006, 07:38 AM
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dirtdigger dirtdigger is offline
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So, does the stainless ball valve last alot longer? I have a 10 gal one, and it works, but after 150 lbs of sand or so the brass one wore through. What do you ue for a resparator, the painting mask type with replacable filters or dust mask type?

Also..........what does everyone do about the mask fogging up on the hood? I just use the POS hood that came with the thing, but as soon as you put it on it fogs up and it's like doing it blind.
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2006, 08:50 AM
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midmosandblasting midmosandblasting is online now
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Fogging on inside or is it becomeing opaque from blastback.Same tricks as scuba mask work for inside.If you guys are using silica sand please hepa mask at least .I would like to see you all have air supplied even home made .Silica is deadly as it attaches to lungs and won't kick out like plain dust will.Heck shops that have to carry workers comp can't even buy it in Mo if still using silica based sands.But at 35.00 a ton for silica ,200 a ton for crushed glass ,160-200 for black beauty it is darn hard to change when prices are a issue in the market.PLEASE BE SAFE.I don't want to hear of my SFT buds developing lung troubles.
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:26 PM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
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Exclamation Resiprator & SS valve

Digger , I have a 3M Resiprator , that has Hepa cartrigdes , the kind that covers your nose and mouth .This one has the round pancake sytle filters out the side and fits under the converted welding hood that I use for my blast hood . I went to a fabric shop and bought a piece of light weight canvas , that is attached to the hood will medium binder clips . Remove the little wire handles , I got the clips from Staples , this covers the back of my head and neck . The resiprator has a bottom exhaust valve so it helps to reduce fogging of the lense .
The SS valve will last longer but you would be better off to spend the money on a dead-man valve , the kind that uses a rubber block to seal the tip . Only draw back to them is you have to hold the valve open by squeezing the handle , but it will shut off automaticaly if you drop them or set them down
Midmo . I worked a teardown and rebuild of a glass making furnace and the cartrigdes I use for sand blasting are the same ones we were issued for the silicates in the atmosphere there , so I am being careful to protect myself or I would not do it . I also shave before blasting to get a good seal from the mask , Thank you for your informance and your concern for the health and safety of all on this site . Dan
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Old 05-24-2006, 02:15 AM
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Greenbuggy Greenbuggy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan
The SS valve will last longer but you would be better off to spend the money on a dead-man valve , the kind that uses a rubber block to seal the tip . Only draw back to them is you have to hold the valve open by squeezing the handle , but it will shut off automaticaly if you drop them or set them down
Don't remember the brand, but the bodyshop next door to the repair shop I was working in (up until I switched jobs a few weeks ago) had a big pot blaster, bigger than the HF one with a dead man valve. Under the front side (front = blasting tip) of the rubber block "lever" there was a round plastic tube-shaped piece with protruding plastic "blocks" of different thicknesses, looked like something the factory had made. Anyway, hold open dead man valve, rotate plastic to desired stop height, release deadman valve and it would stay open. Can't imagine that would be too hard to fab up. I'll take pics next time I'm there.
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