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Old 11-07-2005, 07:18 PM
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Default Oil Question For Shade

Hey Shade, I have a question for you. Would you run a synthetic 15w-40 in a welder....like your TB or my Bobcat? The reason I ask is a buddy of mine is trying to get me to run his oil in my machines...which I just may do. What I am not sure of is the weight. With reg dino oil, I am running straight 40 in summer and straight 30 in winter. I say winter...winters here are an avg of 50° to 60° at the heat of the day. We get about two to three weeks of real cold...avg upper 30's. They are recommending 15w-40 all year long and in the air cooled single cylinder engines as well. Sounds fishy to me, but I am not a oil type individual. Whatcha think...snake oil salesman or is there something to it?

Anybody can comment, BTW. I am looking for input and am not picky.
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:35 PM
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I kinda think(but I am not positive) That the 15-40 would be too thick if the bobcat and tb are splash lubed like a lawnmower engine. I have also been wanting to now wether it would work or not.
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Old 11-07-2005, 08:34 PM
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First off Don,
forget the engineer and ask Motor Doctor!!
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:20 PM
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I think Marvel Mystery oil is the best stuff, followed by a liberal spraying of WD-40
That being said just to rattle somebody’s cage I would have to say I'm not familiar with the engine type in your welder. Motorcycle engines have a wide range of oil types and viscosities that they can run. I personally don't care for the full synthetics unless the application warrants them. Have had pretty good luck with the modified synthetics though. I'm a big believer in running what the factory calls out unless your particular application runs outside the design range of RPM and temperature. In the motorcycle biz people will see a magazine test where they ran "0" weight synthetic oil and picked up a couple of horsepower (on a 165hp engine) and demand that oil because "it's the best". When their motor wears out prematurely because the viscosity isn't there (these "0" weight oils are designed for racing applications only) they sure do sing the blues. If I had more info on your motor type I could make a better recommendation (plain bearing/roller bearing/flat tappet/roller tappet/piston style/etc). From my experience with the factories they do spend time and $$$ determining what oil is the best compromise for the engines projected usage, although occasionally they don’t foresee what the average Joe can do with their product.
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:08 PM
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So you are saying all I need is Marvel Mystery Oil and mix in some WD-40??? How about if I rub some amazing Blue Star Ointment on it as well???

http://www.schaefferoil.com/sellsheets/supreme7000.htm
Ok, here is the oil..I think. They have two and he didn't say which one.

And home page www.schaefferoil.com

I am not sure I can answer the engine questions. I am thinking plain bearing...there are no rollers. Tappets...they look like little piston assemblies. Does that help? Moe may know. Hope he sees this. The oil system is a pressure system, no slingern or splash. Oil pump has 8 psi or higher at 1500 rpm's according to the book.

FWIW, Onan/Linamar P-216 twin cyl, air cooled 3600 rpm..16hp
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorDoctor
I think Marvel Mystery oil is the best stuff, followed by a liberal spraying of WD-40
Smart ***!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorDoctor
I personally don't care for the full synthetics unless the application warrants them. Have had pretty good luck with the modified synthetics though. I'm a big believer in running what the factory calls out unless your particular application runs outside the design range of RPM and temperature. In the motorcycle biz people will see a magazine test where they ran "0" weight synthetic oil and picked up a couple of horsepower (on a 165hp engine) and demand that oil because "it's the best". When their motor wears out prematurely because the viscosity isn't there (these "0" weight oils are designed for racing applications only) they sure do sing the blues. If I had more info on your motor type I could make a better recommendation (plain bearing/roller bearing/flat tappet/roller tappet/piston style/etc). From my experience with the factories they do spend time and $$$ determining what oil is the best compromise for the engines projected usage, although occasionally they don’t foresee what the average Joe can do with their product.
MD, Very well said. To add, my TB 302 calls for 5W-30 year round. Running a SAE 30 in the summer is fine. Running a SAE 40 probably not the best idea unless the manual says so. In the winter run the "multigrade" oil they recommend. Even moving one grade higher or lower can in the long run damage an engine. Too high a viscosity oil will reduce flow and too low a viscosity will not provide enough of a film thickness (hydrodynamic lubrication).
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott V
First off Don,
forget the engineer and ask Motor Doctor!!
Now don't confuss me and Chumly, I am not an engineer, because I can spell it. hehehehehehehehehe
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:28 PM
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Ok, just saying what I was thinking...so far so good. My manual calls for 40w in the 60° to above 100° range and straight 50w in the 80° to above 100° range. I ran 40w when it gets hot and it didn't seem to burn as much oil.


So if'n I get this stuff, just stick with the regular weights and I'll be fine maybe? Anybody look at the product sheets? I know he uses it in his trucks, tractors, race car and family cars....good results all around.
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Old 11-08-2005, 05:36 AM
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Don, I always stick with the manufacturers oil. They have researched it from top to bottom and their rep is also on the line. There will always be competion trying to get in the market.

I run HD fossil oil in my Harley. If there was something better I would use it.

After thought. I use the viscosity that the manual calls for. What I have said has served me well for 50 years. Was taught the same by my father. He was a clanker like Ron. Gotta listen to them sometime.
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Old 11-08-2005, 09:00 AM
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That is what I figgered Moe...just thought I'd ask anyway. I do know first hand about the testing thing. If you will recall, my new motor was a test motor. Not for oil, but seals. They put a little less than 100 hours on it running it 15 minutes at a time testing the seals. That is quite a bit of testing. I don't remember how many engines they had doing that same thing....a few dozen or more. They had to learn something running all those tests.


As to the oil, the moly additives do seem to make a difference in their greases. They are the stickiest crap I have ever run into. I have seen grease just fall off parts...no staying power. This stuff is like glue. It gets on the stuff and you have to physically remove it before it will come off. It stays in tractor bushings three times longer than the regular stuff I have been using. They also don't seem to heat up as bad either. Must be doing something. That was the main reason for thinking about using it in the Bobcat. The oil is supposed to coat everything better and not dry up when the engine sits for a long time.....resulting in no dry starts. If that would be the case, it may solve the bearing problem you were talking about with the Onan, Moe.
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