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Old 09-01-2015, 06:48 PM
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Default Small lathe move with straddle dolly.

Picked up a lathe and needed to get it into my ISO container.

After looking over many "moving a Bridgeport" posts on the web I make a simple straddle dolly with two sections of channel bolted to the lathe stand base. The casters were bolted to the channel rather than welded so I can use them elsewhere later. Bolts drop in from the top so I could rescue the nuts easily after removing the beams. Leveler fittings fit the holes I used for the cross beams.

It was easy to slide off the trailer (note green scrap plates to smooth the gap) and not tippy at all during transport or unloading. Stand has ample tiedown points. It's not finished in pic. I'll do that at leisure since I want a backsplash and coolant return.

I'm making a similar setup with heavier steel and some old forklift wheels to move my newly acquired old J-head Bridgeport. It's simple stuff but doing it this way has little risk of tipping a machine. It could scale as heavy as you care to go and the concept could move very large objects without hiring a rigger.
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:06 AM
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You've got it alright, Wrench. Making that footprint large, is just the thing to reduce the pucker factor.

Enjoy your new toys.


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Old 09-08-2015, 04:22 PM
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Default B-port on same setup.

Same outrigger crossbars attached to Bridgeport. It pushes acceptably and will be stable with the ram installed. (I had to remove the ram to get the mill out of previous owners garage. Fortunately he had a little Harbor Freight cable winch hung from his rafters to make that job easier.)

Heavy angle under mill raises it sufficient for pallet jack or fork lift. Angle will stay attached as long as I have the mill. The outriggers bolt to the angle but they straddle it so I can lower the mill into place by loosening the top nuts. You can see the projecting bolts. Leveling feet will go in the holes used to attach the outriggers so no holes are wasted.

I fucked up by using galvanized anchor bolts (they were handy and have suffiicient thread) when I should have used allthread which has a much better thread finish. They will be fine for one trip but next machine I move I'll grab some 5/8" allthread and tack nuts on on the top end. My machinist bud mentioned the anchor bolts galled (even with lube) with standard nuts because nuts for anchor bolts are typically tapped for a loose fit even after galvanizing. I didn't know that before but will damn sure remember it now.

It would be easy to use trailer axle outriggers if you have something heavy to drag over soft ground, or just saw the axle tubes off a leftover full floater truck axle and weld to your crossbar with some uprights so the object being moved stays close to ground.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:05 AM
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Love these rigging operations! Glad it went well for you, Wrench.

Another way to reduce the height of a Bridgeport for moving is to crank the knee all the way down and then, swivel the head 180 degrees so that, the spindle is pointing to the sky.

Again, enjoy your new toy.


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Old 09-24-2015, 01:58 PM
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Enjoy it I shall.

A bud and I found a Bradford Metal Master in good condition at auction. Only one bidder (we had ignored it and were inside since we thought it would go high) who got it for 100 bucks, and when we talked with him he agreed to take 300 to avoid moving it. It's going to another friend who is a gunsmith.

The fun part is there is no straight shot into his tiny backyard shop and we cannot bring a trailer close enough for direct insertion. Other obstacles include a couple of steps and no caster-friendly surfaces near the entrance.

I volunteered to help and pics of the solution will follow when he gets done cleaning it, and unbolting the chip pan and coolant pump for their own protection and so I can get jacks and dunnage under the bed.
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:02 AM
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Sounds interesting. I hope you can get some pics of the move.

As for "caster friendly surfaces", you could use a couple of 1 inch sheets of plywood as a temporary road and leap-frog them to your final destination.

For the steps, a bunch of 4x4 cribbing should work.


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Old 10-01-2015, 07:25 AM
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Owner removed his shop entrance and blocked trailer level with the floor. Borrowed trailer deck was rotten so instead of attaching cutoff 14-bolt axle tubes so I could roll it on tires or rims, I ran two full width pipes across the bottom, put weight on them then welded to the orange channel bolted to the base.

Operator side was heavier and tried to tip when sling loading the lathe at the auction so I left more pipe on that side. We slid old forklift tires over the pipes but since trailer deck started to collapse we switched to good wood dunnage and lengthwise pipe under the skids to bridge the weak areas.

We cargo-strapped the tail stock end base to the trailer to prevent surprises, left about a foot of slack at time, then winched the lathe into the shop with a Wyeth-Scott cast comealong deadmanned to a pole as close to the floor as possible.

Full width pipe made it easy to drag and pivot safely. The forklift jack ($25 flea market find) was perfect for catching the edges of the lathe base securely.

Shop has a wood floor so we left it on skids until be can get some steel plates to place under the level adjuster bolts. We have it over a sound joist atop his concrete pad, but getting over "softer" flooring was challenging and slightly "crunchy".
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Last edited by monckywrench; 10-01-2015 at 12:52 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-01-2015, 01:03 PM
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A few more.
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  #9  
Old 10-01-2015, 08:14 PM
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Dag gone, now thats a hunk of iron! Thats a neat way of using those old forklift tires. Thanks for sharing the pics. Glad it went well for you guys.


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Old 10-01-2015, 09:04 PM
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How come is the lathe unpainted on the trailer but has a paint job in the other pictures?
Did he paint it before moving it inside, or what?
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