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  #11  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:19 PM
widetrackman widetrackman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder
90% chance it is a JT3 taper (JT=Jacobs taper); 9.99% it is a JT33 0.01% it is something else.

All chucks are removable, typically you would use a tapered dog to remove them a U shaped wedge where the top or points of the U are the thin edge of the wedge and the bottom of the U is the fat part of the wedge.
Shade, not sure what your saying, I drove a dog thru the quill slot and out popped the arbor with the chuck on the other end. Still cant figure out now to get the chuck off.
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arbo
Your spindle will be one of two things. First, try extending the spindle of the drill press all the way out. If the spindle has a notch cut through it, it has a morse taper internal taper. In this case, insert a drift into that notch and give it a light whack with a mallet. Be ready to catch the chuck and morse arbor so it doesnt fall on your toes. Second, the spindle may have a male jacobs taper machined directly on the end. In this case, you must drive a wedge between the top of the chuck, and the drill press quill. They make chuck removal wedges for thsi purpose. They are available from Grainger, MSC, etc. They are relatively inexpensive. Im with Shade, guessing that it will be either a Jacobs 3 or 33 taper. If you have slop between the spindle and the chuck, that tells me that there is a good chance that the taper may be b1tched up. If the female taper on the chuck is bad, replace the whole chuck. If it is the male taper on the end of the spindle, good luck is all I can say. Once you get it apart, check back here for some reassembly tips.
Arbo, the spindle has a female taper machined in it and I used a wedge to remove the arbor with the chuck attached but cant figure out how to get the chuck off the arbor. The slack is between the outside chuck body and the ? thing where the arbor goes into the chuck. Will look inside chuch and see if there's something holding it too the arbor, but think its a taper but cant really tell.
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:41 PM
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Ok, widetrack,
First things first. Since you have the adapter out of the quill, open the chuck all the way up. Use a light to look up inside & see if there is a screw that goes through the chuck into the adapter or not. In there is, then you have a threaded chuck & you first have to remove that screw; it will probably have left-hand threads. Then the chuck (to adapter) will likely have right-hand threads.

If there is no screw, then you have a tapered chuck (to adapter) and will need wedges to "pry" them apart, similar to the way you used the drift to remove the adapter from the quill - only different.

If you will report back on whether there is a screw, I will take pictues of the wedge arrangement & post them for you.
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgott
He said Craftsman, guys. Open up the chuck and look up inside. There might be a screw in the chuck to lock it in place. Like the screw they use to lock the threaded chucks on a hand drill.
Will take a look inside. If no screw, how do you get the chuck off the arbor?
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franz
I work my fingers off here, and you guys don't do your homework.
All taper sizes are available on ShopFloorTalk unlike the intelectual web site
http://shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=439
Thanks Franz, will measure it tomorrow. If this has a 33 taper where would I find dimensions. Thanks. Oppps, didnt see the #33 at bottom, old eyes gettin tired.

Last edited by widetrackman; 07-20-2005 at 12:49 AM.
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  #16  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:53 PM
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Sit tight; it will take me a few minutes to post the pictures for you.
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  #17  
Old 07-20-2005, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter
Ok, widetrack,
First things first. Since you have the adapter out of the quill, open the chuck all the way up. Use a light to look up inside & see if there is a screw that goes through the chuck into the adapter or not. In there is, then you have a threaded chuck & you first have to remove that screw; it will probably have left-hand threads. Then the chuck (to adapter) will likely have right-hand threads.

If there is no screw, then you have a tapered chuck (to adapter) and will need wedges to "pry" them apart, similar to the way you used the drift to remove the adapter from the quill - only different.

If you will report back on whether there is a screw, I will take pictues of the wedge arrangement & post them for you.
Ok Cutter, you got my curiousity(spel) up, gona put my pants on an go to shop and take a peak. Will post back shortly.
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  #18  
Old 07-20-2005, 12:06 AM
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Default Wedges

Side view, showing the taper.



Lying flat:



In place to remove the chuck:



So you just take a hammer & tap them together.
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2005, 12:09 AM
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Default Done deal

And showing the chuck removed:



But I get the sense that yours is held on by a screw arrangement because of what you're saying about "wobble", but now you know - I hope.
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Last edited by cutter; 07-20-2005 at 12:15 AM.
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  #20  
Old 07-20-2005, 01:13 AM
widetrackman widetrackman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter
And showing the chuck removed:



But I get the sense that yours is held on by a screw arrangement because of what you're saying about "wobble", but now you know - I hope.
Cutter, no screw in there so must be a taper. Now to find some wedges. While I had it out I miked the quill end best I could and got the the following; Length 3.100, Lg Dia .700, Small Dia .580. From the taper charts
this seems to be a #2 Morse Taper. Whats in the chuck T.B.D..Thanks for the great pic's.
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