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  #1  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:09 PM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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Default Bandsaw modifications

Ever since Cutter mounted a cylinder on his bandsaw, I've lusted after one and the only thing that kept me from doing it was simply that I have a mitre bandsaw and I couldn't figure how to mount a downfeed cylinder, and still be able to swing the head.
But, finally I came up with an idea, and so I bought one.
I started out making a bracket like in picture #1. There were several incarnations before I was happy with it. There is a blank tab on the base casting that I drilled and threaded for a bolt, and mounted the cylinder to it. This setup seems to work perfectly at any angle, but you cannot raise the head to vertical. I guess if you had to use it in that position, you could pull a bolt out of the ram and then stand it fully upright to use like a bandsaw.

Any one with a narrow blade bandsaw knows all about putting the blade back on after the blade blows of if it catches in the cut and overloads. I found after a while that the joy went out of this quickly, so I took the guard off, and chopped off the bottom section of it as in picture #3. Now I can loosed the tension and flip the blade back on the drive wheel in seconds, without taking off the blade guard.
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:29 PM
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Gerry,

If you were to slot the brackets you would not have to take the bolt out, you could make a little latch to hold it on the top or just wing bolt it on there.

Scott
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:42 PM
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Nice setup, One thing nice about my 1946 Wellsaw guards were not a option, I guess they thought people were smarter then.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2012, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Gerry,

If you were to slot the brackets you would not have to take the bolt out, you could make a little latch to hold it on the top or just wing bolt it on there.

Scott
That's a good idea Scott. I seldom use the thing as a bandsaw for cutting sheet, etc, as I have the CNC plasma for that, but there is the odd time...
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Last edited by Ironman; 03-03-2012 at 10:23 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:33 PM
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Golly Gerry, mine came with the cylinder on it & if you'd said something I could have take pictures that would probably saved you some tinkering around.

Mine also has the limitation with respect to going vertical but that's only a bother when I change blades - or, as you said, re-install it. I have no need to use it as a vertical saw.
The top of the rod is held in place by a ball-handled stud; it fits into a yoke that is threaded only on the back side. The other side of the saw frame has a lock pin that assures that the saw cannot fall back from vertical.

If you ever want to see any of this, just say so. I got plenty of unused film in my camera.

By the way, that cylinder you bought is the same as the one I put on the old Johnson.
I think they are very good and really versatile.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2012, 12:49 AM
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Well hecky durn, get to clickin Mr. Camera Man!

I'm impressed with the part where the saw doesn't go all the way to vertical actually more than anything else. I've got the stop bolt adjusted all the way out on mine, just so I don't have to reach as far to get the thing when I'm set up for the next cut. It could be even lower and help me out a bunch! I just havn't figured out a way for it to support itself in the more-than-half closed position.

On the thinwall and small shaft that I cut, the regular spring feed works okay, but is set so lightly that the machine won't turn itself off when the cut is finished. On the thick shaft, I've got the tension set so loose that the spring falls off most times when I lift the head. Not much reason to reach back there and hook it back up with it serving no purpose.
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubby View Post
Well hecky durn, get to clickin Mr. Camera Man!
Shortly. I got a frisbee game all tee-ed up right now.

edit:
ahrighty then, I took some pitchers.

First of all, my Homier cylinder is a good bit smaller than that one you bought, Gerry, so the mount didn't have to reach as high. It is attached to the same 2 bolts on the gearbox cover.
The second general observation I'll offer is that the control sensitivity of the needle valve on your cylinder is a good bit superior to this one. At least the one I put on old Johnson is. A 5° turn on the wheel on little Homer is a significant adjustment and it does not have the lever, unfortunately.

1. here is top bracket and knob

2. I misspoke earlier when I said the yoke was threaded on the backside only; rather, it is threaded on the outside only.

3. the threads on the outside

4. the threaded stud - notice the bare part which goes through the rod and into the back half of the yoke

5. there is also an adjustable vertical depth stop
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Last edited by cutter; 03-04-2012 at 02:19 AM.
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2012, 02:29 AM
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1. The vertical stop latch. Notice that there is a series of 3 holes, giving a range of angles avallable. I've never had any use for them.

2. I usually use this position - full vertical - when changing the blade.

3. just showing the options

4. there is also a spring and some adjustment which I've never touched.

5. this fuzzy picture was meant to show the vertical lift adjustment bolt, also barely visible in photo 1.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

Just Keep Walking

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For I am still as God created me."
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2012, 10:47 AM
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Default Kodachrome Moment

Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
I got plenty of unused film in my camera. .
Rod, I wonder just what type of film you use? Do you develop it yourself?

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  #10  
Old 03-04-2012, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Nice setup, One thing nice about my 1946 Wellsaw guards were not a option, I guess they thought people were smarter then.
Or they ended up with the nickname "Lefty"
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