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Old 11-20-2009, 09:20 PM
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Default Replacing a bucket edge-few questions

Going to replace the cutting edge on the loader bucket for an Case 550D backhoe. Planning on at least torching the old one off tomorrow and hoping I can get started welding it back up too.
They provided an ESCO replacement edge. I bought 10lbs of Hobart 7018AC (doing it with a 225 lincoln at home) to get started. Do I need to preheat? Post-heat? Do I need to stitch it all together to avoid warping or just weld it up?

The bucket is really beat up, I need to beef up the heel on it as its worn clear through in a few spots. That will get done with whatever I can scrounge up for it.
Any other common problems I should look into while I have it here?
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:29 PM
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Take the edge back and replace it with a bolt on edge... make sure it it center punched and not top punched... when the one side wears out, cut the bolts off, spin the blade around and bolt it back on... much less agrivation if you plan on keeping the tractor a long time or use it lots
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:53 PM
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Could you get some pics? Are you replacing the cutting edge or the moe board that the cutting edge bolts too?
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:55 PM
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Not an option, the owner picked out and supplied the cutting edge. Its what they want. I haven't had a good project where I got to burn more than 2 or 3 lbs of rod at a time in awhile anyway, I don't think its hassle at all

This hoe has been retired from commercial excavation work and was donated to the agricultural society that runs our county fairgrounds. It gets used alot by their maintenance guys, but not as hard as a road crew or excavator would. I have to do a lot of plating and crack welding on it anyway, so I might as well do the edge too. Its been awhile since I dealt with any alloy stuff like this, and I haven't been able to get a clear idea of what ESCO actually makes their cutting edges from either. Thought I might get some suggestions here.
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:58 PM
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On the other hand .....
DDA52 did us a nice informative bucket rebuild thread about 2 years ago.
It also involves a good bit of rebuilding and bucket patching, not just cutter bar & teeth.
Good read.
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Could you get some pics? Are you replacing the cutting edge or the moe board that the cutting edge bolts too?
I'll try and get pics tomorrow. They just took the bucket off and delivered it and the cutting edge to me to work on, so I'll just have it on jack stands and blocks, no pics of the hoe itself.
I'm replacing the actual cutting edge/bucket lip. Its a 1 piece U-shape edge, appears to match whats left of the original pretty well, there wasn't any bolt on edge.
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:12 PM
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Matt

Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the exact cutting edge you have, but here's some general observations from my experience. Loader buckets do often have bolt in cutting edges, especially on commercially used wheel hoes. BUT nearly every Ag loader and more than a few commercial wheel hoes and payloaders use weld in edges. The rod choice is good - 7018, but the 7018AC I've tried needs a bit more current to burn than the regular 7018. (FWIW, I burn the 1/8" 7018 at 125 to 140 amps DC on my 250 AC-DC Century.) Your customer supplied the new cutting edge. I'd say go for it and you can have the job done before the supply store opens Monday morning to exchange the cutter bit for a bolt on.

As far as I know, AR - abrasion resistant steels that cutter bits are made of are mid range carbon steels. As such, they like and behave better with some preheat. 350 - 450 F is probly the range to shoot for, or vigorous sizzle when you spit on it.

Tack heavily and then skip weld in at first to avoid severe localized heating of the cutter bit. These pieces seem to move even more with heat than MS. Weld a full rod at one end, another in the middle, and one at the opposite side. Back step the individual rod length welds on the subsequent welds roughly in the same sequence. The cutting edge will see some of the most severe service on the loader, so I recommend welding both sides. Skip weld then back step to the welds as with the top. Post heat is probly overkill, but if you have a length of fibreglass insulation to lay along the new cutter bit, that'd be a good thing. I let mine cool in air.

The thin spots depending on how bad they are can be either built up with hardsurfacing rod (in some kind of dirt catching pattern), or patched with MS plate and covered with hardsurfacing weave.

My $.02 cdn
Cam

P.S. Good luck!
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Old 11-21-2009, 12:17 AM
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Cam,
Heres my take on it. I used this 1/2 spear weld on cutting edge from Boundary Equipment in Edmonton. It can be used on a full time basis on blast rock.
For the worn out heel, you can weld in used cat cutting edge or grader blade edges, on the lfat side by side. Usueally for scrap price out of a highways yard.

I used alot of this stuff from Boundary --
Weldable Repointer bar p/n 305-14FT. $1250 It is 1.25 thick on the bottom and you can weld it solid but do not need to do more than 6" stitches with 7018. It is some 500 Brinell material that gets tougher with use.
I have used this stuff and it's tougher yet, but trickier welding--YO247-F46120 manganese 1/2 arrow was $595.

Oh, yeah. Preheat to 150 with a tiger torch.

Ignore this post. too many beer and things and not reading Shades post.
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Last edited by Ironman; 11-21-2009 at 12:21 AM. Reason: screw up
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camdigger View Post
some preheat. 350 - 450 F is probly the range to shoot for, or vigorous sizzle when you spit on it.
If it sticks and sizzles when you spit on it, it aint hot enough..

At 350-450deg, spit will skip off or dance around, not stick and sizzle...
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:33 AM
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Good stuff guys I'll take pics of it when I go out to feed and clean stalls here in a little bit.
I can tell right now I'm going to regret my 125CF oxygen tank. Dang LWS is only open during the week too. Guess I better up the pace on the welding so I don't have to do too much preheating Probably pull a burner off the forge so I can use straight propane actually.
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