#1
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Brazing Question
Thanks for any help. Teacher |
#2
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What size rod ?
Is the torch jetted for Mapp gas ? Did you do this outside in the cold air ? I prefer silver solder. |
#3
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I will not be able to help on this one but I'm interested in the answer.
I've always used OA myself also to gas weld and braze. CEC
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"There is one advantage to having nothing, it never needs repair. " - Frank A. Clark - |
#4
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This is the description given by a seller for the rod I'm using.
Uniweld Copper Alloys 3/32” X 18” Rd uni-1500fc (flux coated) universal low fuming bronze brazing alloy Low fuming brazing alloy Excellent for brazing both steel and cast iron as well as yellow brass and bronze casting Flux coated (FC) or bare as required Thanks Teacher |
#5
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Quote:
Now to be clear, are you saying that you're using MAPP only - no oxygen? I've use MAPP only to solder copper pipe, don't seem to me you'd get enough heat to successfully braze without the o2.
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cutter Housekeeping Staff: the Gatekeeper Director of Policy, Syntax and Grammar (by appointment) "Dr. Chandran, will I dream?" Just Keep Walking "I am not a body, I am free. For I am still as God created me." |
#6
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Thanks cutter.
Yep, just MAPP no oxygen. It looked lke I wasn't getting enough heat but the melting point of the rods is ~1600F while the MAPP is supposed to burn at over 5000F. Teacher |
#7
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Teacher heres the bad news you are not gonna Braze with straight MAPP I have tried and its just not gonna happen at least not with a hand torch now with a B-tank set up it is possible but the torch head itself is desighned for it and burns hotter . Even then I have only brazed with stick silver with a Btank setup. This was also on Copper pipe I dont think you are going to get steel hot enough with MAPP to braze and the base metal has to be cherry red at least every time I have brazed it did .
Rick
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if it aint broke fix it till it is Proud member of the garbage gang and sub chapter Mole Hill gang Politically Correct : A term used for whiny pu**ies that need sh*t sugar coated . Last edited by rickairmedic; 12-30-2008 at 11:59 AM. |
#8
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Well, even if you were able to melt the rod that don't mean you can braze.
You have to heat the base metal hot enough (dark cherry red) for it cause the rod to flow.
__________________
cutter Housekeeping Staff: the Gatekeeper Director of Policy, Syntax and Grammar (by appointment) "Dr. Chandran, will I dream?" Just Keep Walking "I am not a body, I am free. For I am still as God created me." |
#9
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Yep what Cutter said I was editing my post when Cutter posted the golden rule if the base metal isnt hot enough the rod wont flow.
Rick
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if it aint broke fix it till it is Proud member of the garbage gang and sub chapter Mole Hill gang Politically Correct : A term used for whiny pu**ies that need sh*t sugar coated . |
#10
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Its been a while since I used Propane for brazing.
If it gets windy or cold outside it will be difficult. The rod BernzOmatic, NS-3, Nickel Silver. Working temp 1250 - 1750. I didn't have a brass rod. as I recall they need more heat then the silver rods. long time ago I had to braze some brass and the brass part was melting before the brass rod, so I switched too the silver and that's all I use. I think brass rod is the choice for steel but, I don't braze steel I weld it. (1) Propane. BernzOmatic, JTH-7 torch. the torch is a big difference then the old ones 30 years ago. (2) Two pieces of steel about 1"x 2"x 1/16" I did not clean the steel. The flux in the picture did not work vary well, maybe I did not use enough. the flux on the rod took care of it. I did notice, the rod would not melt directly off the rod vary well, once on the steel it flowed with additional heat. Last edited by GWIZ; 01-07-2020 at 01:27 AM. |
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