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Old 11-05-2007, 11:43 PM
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Default Built a new toothbar

Well, I finally got my toothbar finished. It is in the shop cooling down right now. I had several setbacks on this one. I ordered the parts...picked them up and not one single part would work. The el cheapo cutting edge was actually a moldboard edge with a 5/8" bow in it. I thought I could make it work, but it threw the tooth geometry off way too much as you can see in the pic. The shanks would have worked if they had been a little more curved, but they weren't and I didn't want them to be too shallow which is where they would have ended up....so they were useless as well. I needed the over the edge shank like the original....they too were special order. Since I already have to eat 120 bucks for the first set, I decided to reuse the old ones.
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Last edited by DDA52; 03-26-2008 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:53 PM
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The place that sold me the moldboard edge let me trade it back in for a new edge. They had a couple that would have worked, but they were a little too short. So, I ended up getting them to cut me 6' of the raw edge they had and be done with it. The sad thing is the moldboard edge was 38 bucks...the new flat one was 111 bucks. I really tried to make that one work. Just couldn't do it...too bad.


So, with a new and correct edge, I needed to repair the bucket a little. It had 5 or 6 cracks in it. Nothing major or even so-so. They were all easily handled. Not too bad for a 10 year old bucket that has not been babied at all.

I also noticed the new bars come with a reinforcement plate to beef up the bolt hole. The bucket is only 3/16 MS, so it wallows out kinda easy and my old one was starting to get bad. So, I added a plate on both sides and welded up the old hole since it wouldn't work with the new bar anyway.
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Grand High Poobah...(by appointment.)

Last edited by DDA52; 03-26-2008 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:03 AM
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Here is the new edge cut and being test fit. It is cut to just about 5/8 shorter than the inside dimension of the bucket. Works pretty good like that. I made new bolt ears out of 1/2 MS and got them tacked on. Once I had all the old shanks cut off and cleaned up, I set it all in place to see if everyone would work.....they did perfectly.

I also discovered that while a gouging tip on a torch will work, air arc would be needed if I ever do this again. Took me nearly an hour to gouge off 8 teeth. I also ate quite bit of slag...more than I would have liked anyway. So, it looks like I will be getting more toys one day.:evil:
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Grand High Poobah...(by appointment.)

Last edited by DDA52; 03-26-2008 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:09 AM
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No paint?
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:19 AM
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Lookin' good Don, lookin good.....
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:22 AM
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So, since there were no issues with anything and the ears were already tacked, it was ready to get to cookin on the table.

I did prebend it like KB suggested...1/4 in the middle and 1/8 at halfway on each side. I used up quite a bit of clamps, but it did stay put. Once all the shanks were laid out and set with clamps, they all got tacked. The spec sheet recomended 1" tacks for everything with this steel. (C-1080) It also recommended a higher than expected preheat. They wanted 400° minimum. I was expecting 300°. No worries, I had to buy new temp sticks anyway. The spec sheet said it was cool to use 7018's, 71T-1 dual shield and 70S-6 wire. I checked with the mech shop where I got the edge and they were using 70S-6...so I did too. If anything breaks, I can always use 7018's to put it back together. I figured this would be a good test.

Once it was all tacked, I got the silly clamps out of my way and started the preheat once again for the final welds. It all went fine except for the one I welded before I preheated it. If it breaks, I will at least know why. Once it was all welded, I covered it with a fiberglas blanket to slow down the cooling some. It took nearly 4 hours for it to get below 100°. That was a surprise...the blanket really worked. Once it was room temp, it needed to be flipped over to get the last two bolt ear welds. When I took it off the clamps, I noticed it did warp a little....about 1/8 from end to end. Not to bad, IMO. I would have been happy with 1/4. I reclamped it straight when it was on its back and got all the welds heated and burned in. I also welded the bottom of the teeth while it was upside down. The teeth were originally pinned. I gave up a very long time ago on those pins. They do not want to come out...so the teeth get welded. I then flipped it back right side up and reclamped it back like it was originally...with the preload in the center. Hopefully it will come out in good shape. That is where it is right now. All welded up, still clamped and covered with a blanket. I'll get it out tomorrow and drill new holes in the bucket....all the while wishing I had a mag drill no doubt.

I'll take a finished pic tomorrow.
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Grand High Poobah...(by appointment.)

Last edited by DDA52; 03-26-2008 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
No paint?

Isn't rust good enough???


Tek, thanks...the test will be tomorrow when I unclamp it again. Then I'll see how good it looks.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:51 AM
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Nice Work there Don

Glad to see I'm not the only one who uses a speed square for layout work

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Old 11-06-2007, 01:01 AM
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Damn nice work Don.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:04 AM
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Thanks, James. I also use a 12" speed square and a 12" speed angle square. I have no shame.


Thanks again for all the help Kevin. It was a big help.
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