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  #1  
Old 03-27-2007, 09:35 PM
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tigman250 tigman250 is offline
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Default my version of a line boring machine

because i am always on a budget and always seem to have the need for expencive tools, i once again find myself making what i need. this is modeled after the one BBchevy396 made, just a tad smaller because of bore size i am dealing with.

the cutter shaft is 1" 1018 cold roll, turned down on the drive end so it can be chucked into a mag drill. it is 18" long and slides in 1" bearings i found laying arround. i picked up a few 1/4" tool steel cutters that will get mounted into the shaft somehow, all of wich will be mounted to the arm with some custom brackets.

first is an overall of the bearings and shaft
second is (a very blurry) closeup of the tool bit and turned end
third is one of the holes needing to be bored (large hole on left closest to camera)
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:32 PM
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Looks Good Tig

Be sure to post some action pics and let us know how it works

James
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2007, 01:05 AM
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BBchevy396 BBchevy396 is offline
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That'll work!.......... First off,... GET A RAG OR BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THAT CYLINDER SHAFT, AND THE SAWHORSE!!!!!!!

Ok, sorry for shouting! :evil:

A round hole, drilled through the shaft will work for holding the tool,The square will "bite", and hold securely). Be sure to drill it off center, so that the cutting edge is at, or a teeny bit above the center of the shaft, and drill a couple of them, so that when you run out of throw on the mag drill, you can move the toolbit to the next hole.

(afterthought) You might have to grind, or round the corners of the bit, to allow for a smaller hole. You might run out of meat behind the tool. Grind the cutting edge down to allow for the bit hole, to be closer to the center of the shaft., and still have the cutter on center.

( another afterthought) If chatter is a real problem, you may have to go to a piece of 4140, or some such alloy. Either way, 1" is gonna be flexy. You might have to go with a larger piece, and just barely poke the tool out of it.

Place the holes so you can get a bit of overlap on the stroke, so it is easier to match your bore size, from where you quit cutting, to where you begin, again.

Sorry for the rambling, I am just thinking out loud.

Are you boring the hole for an oversize bucket pin, or are you going to clean-up the bore, and bush it?

P.S. sorry for yelling at you.
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Last edited by BBchevy396; 03-28-2007 at 01:07 AM. Reason: I wanted to..........
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2007, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigman250
i picked up a few 1/4" tool steel cutters that will get mounted into the shaft somehow
At the vary least, go with M42 Cobalt tool bits.
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2007, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBchevy396
That'll work!.......... First off,... GET A RAG OR BLOCK OF WOOD BETWEEN THAT CYLINDER SHAFT, AND THE SAWHORSE!!!!!!!

P.S. sorry for yelling at you.
LOL it looks like the cylinder rod is laying on the horse but it isn't (i know better LOL) the pin that holds the top of the cylinder won't allow it to lay on the horse and the arm is clamped to the other horse so the whole thing can't tip and damage the rod.
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:33 PM
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got the mounts cut and welded tonight and the hole bored in the bar for the tool bit.....just isn't enough time in the day

first two pictures are of the mounting system, one for top and i have another to hold the bottom of the rod also, they are just clamped in place right now they will get welded for the boring process.

last two are of the tool bit hole being bored, it's a .25 tool bit so i bored the hole a bit off center (AKA eyeballed it LOL) to allow the center of the tool bit to be in the center of the rod
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The one that dies with the most tools wins

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  #7  
Old 03-29-2007, 06:20 AM
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You can do it!...........( in my best Rob Schnider /Adam Sandler movie voice)

Yep, Looked like the rod was resting on the sawhorse, Sorry for yelling.

That thing's gonna work!
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:20 PM
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some action shots, it works beautifully! i bored these particular holes to 1.75 to accept a sleeve that will hold the composite bushings.

fourth picture is a tip really, most of you probably already know it but for those of you that don't....here it is. after drilling a hole to tap, remove the drill and put in a rod with a taper turned on it, use that to keep your threads nice and straight. the taper fits in the square hole from the tap handle and works great! nothing worse than crooked threads in a straight hole

action videos
Click here to watch line-bore-1
Click here to watch line-bore-2

in the second video i was spinning much faster because it was a finish cut
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The one that dies with the most tools wins

If it's worth having, it's worth working for

I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take an ass whoopin!
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2007, 10:06 PM
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WAY TO GO!!!!

Thats about how my set-up worked. FUN isn't it !?! I haven't priced a line boring unit, but I'll bet we saved a hellofa lota bucks!...... granted, it might a minivan, not a Cadillac, but it's the Cadillac of minivans!! :evil:

Loved the videos!

Like an old fellow once said, "Brute force, and sheer ignorance will overcome any obstacle!!!" :evil:

"I didn't know it couldn't be done, so I did it !"
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Or what? You'll release the dogs? Or the bees? Or the dogs with bees in their mouth and when they bark they shoot bees at you?

Last edited by BBchevy396; 03-30-2007 at 10:11 PM. Reason: I wanted to!
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  #10  
Old 03-30-2007, 10:37 PM
jhill
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Tigman,
Looks like you were working on a backhoe boom. You interested in doing another one? I need to do my mini ex soon

Jerry
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