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  #41  
Old 11-01-2008, 07:54 PM
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TommyA TommyA is offline
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I don't need 175 psi as well so I think that something that is lower rated will work just fine. Most of my tools operate at 90psi just fine.

Charlie I normally shut mine off as well, maybe that is why I got 14 years of use out of this pressure switch.
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  #42  
Old 11-01-2008, 09:25 PM
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Tommy, here is an article I've posted before relative to true horsepower and true CFM ratings. You may be interested.
Attached Files
File Type: doc Evaluating True Horsepower and CFM Ratings of Air Compressors.doc (50.0 KB, 191 views)
File Type: doc Electric Motors.doc (43.0 KB, 374 views)
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  #43  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:16 PM
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Well, Dad has been having trouble with the pressure switch on his 6.5 HP 60 gallon compressor. It was leaking air and some times it would not shut off.

Pressure relief valve has gotten some serious testing.

The switch looks to be the same as Tommy A's.

I decided to use the TSC switch.

Installed it last night. Seems to be working well.

Generally the compressor is shut down when not being used. I think that he has had the compressor since the 1990s.

The fuse box for it is switched off when it not being used.
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  #44  
Old 11-15-2008, 01:42 PM
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So Tommy, what did you finally do?
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  #45  
Old 11-15-2008, 05:05 PM
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I ordered the switch off E-bay that Gwiz mentioned in his post. I tried to re-assemble the old switch but that was a no-go and it needed to be replaced anyway. I've just been turning the compressor on using the breaker. Makes you really appreciate when compressor works correctly.
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  #46  
Old 11-15-2008, 06:29 PM
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So far the TSC switch that I got has been working fine.

Unloader works fine and it shuts off at the right pressure too. 125 PSI
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  #47  
Old 11-15-2008, 07:13 PM
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I would have gotten the TSC switch but believe it or not I would have a 60 mile round trip so it was cheaper to order the E-bay option. Also it isn't a certain deal that TSC will have what you are looking for.
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  #48  
Old 11-15-2008, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyA View Post
I ordered the switch off E-bay that Gwiz mentioned in his post.
I bought a new one that looks just like the picture, 3hp 220v 150 psi, single port at Retool last Thursday for $23.99.
The switch on my big compressor still works but it sure is ratty looking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyA View Post
I've just been turning the compressor on using the breaker. Makes you really appreciate when compressor works correctly.
That's probably a good idea anyway. Kinda hard for them to screw up without power.
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  #49  
Old 11-28-2008, 02:04 AM
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Remove the capacitors, and use a line cord, to apply 115v across the terminals momentarily. Remove the wires, and short across the terms with a screwdriver, and you should get a fat spark. If none, replace the capacitors.
To check the start switch, scribe marks across the main frame ends, crossing the parting line of the end bells. Remove the through bolts, and using a screwdriver, remove the end bell where the wires connect. Check the switch for proper continuity, and look at the governor assy. on the shaft, checking it's operation. Occasionally the springs will break, or the holes the springs connect to will wear through, and cause a no start problem. Clean the switch by a small file or sandpaper. When reassembling, be sure the spring washer is in place where the bearing fits into the end bell.
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  #50  
Old 11-28-2008, 11:52 AM
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Thanks Soapy but I have already added a new switch and everything is working as it should.

When I was Troubleshooting the electrics I wasn't thinking correctly when I metered across the two 115v legs. It didn't cross my mind that I was dealing with two separate legs that would give me a total of 230v. I was thinking about how if you place the leads on the two side of a 115v line you would not get a reading.
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