To weld or not to weld,,, aluminum

[DDA52]

Mine was free.......

[allessence]

Originally Posted by GWIZ

My understanding aluminum dissipates heat so much faster you have to run the welder hotter then what you run steel at.
Get the bigger machine.

I've welded alum intercoolers, tanks, boats etc with mig and can tell you unlike steel alum when heated just drops away. So as to adding to much heat. It's not a good thing. Really the best if you don't have pulsed feature is the run the it only hot enough to get the bead profile your are looking for (neither to high nor flat) since on alum it's actually the bead that takes the stress and strain vs steel which seems to accumulate stress around the bead in the HAZ.

On thin 1/8" alum if you grind down the bead to flatten it out or to make it looked finished, this is the area (center of the bead) will be more than likely where it fails. On thicker material 1/4" its usually in the HAZ and is consistent with mild steels.

Always buy the biggest welder you can afford then go one size bigger. Will pay off in both longevity and in duty cycle.

I'm still looking at a MM350P or XMT 350mpa, getting an Acess 450p or similar unit with pulsing. Nice feature both on steel and alum.

[mccutter]

Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder

When buying a welder go big, you can always turn the heat down, but it only
goes up so far and then you are SOL!

Second recommendation if the Millermatic 212, the Miller version of the
Hobart 210. You will spend a few more $$$ for it but you will be happier with
it all around. BTW, Miller and Hobart are both owned by ITW and Miller
makes a bunch of the Hobart machines but with cheaper components than
the Miller units.

My thoughts exactly... and the 212 has the dual drive rollers and M25 gun--I'm not sure what the H210 has... Unfortunately the latest models take the SM200/15A/30A spoolguns so that would throw your budget right out the window.

The lighter AND lighter-duty (single drive roller/M10) MM211 has dual input voltage functions and can take the SM100 ($200), I would take this over the H187.

Alternately, a used MM210/SM3035 wouldn't be bad, especially with the spoolgun. It too comes with a M25 gun and dual drive rollers. I sold mine about 4 months ago for more than what I paid for it new 9 years ago! ($1250 vs $1100) Miller welders do hold their value...

[Diverbill45]

Just to add to what everybody is saying, when I went and purchased my machine, I was going to get the 211, but I wound up jumping up to the 251. The saying that my dad always used to tell me, when I was growing up was, "It's always better to have and not need, than to need and not have." I'm glad I got the bigger machine. I also got the 30a spool gun. I figured I'd never have a need for the extra power, but dad was right again. I've had a couple of jobs where the extra came in real handy.

Oh yea, a few months after I got my 251 Miller brought out the 252. I asked at the LWS what the difference was and was told that there wasn't any difference in the machines except for the skin covering. Same machine different covering or body style. Miller said it was cheaper to just use one body style than have basically the same machine with 2 different coverings.

Been real happy with my 251 and would suggest to purchase bigger than you think you'll need, if your budget can handle it now, because sooner or later you'll be needing the extra power, I can guarantee it.

[Shade Tree Welder]

Read this then correct your above posts. BTW, I have been assuming, my
mistake, that the Hobart 210 everyone has been posting about was the
Ironman 210 and not the "toy" Handler 210.

Originally Posted by Diverbill45

Oh yea, a few months after I got my 251 Miller brought out the 252. I asked at the LWS what the difference was and was told that there wasn't any difference in the machines except for the skin covering. Same machine different covering or body style. Miller said it was cheaper to just use one body style than have basically the same machine with 2 different coverings.

The tooling for the 250/250X/251 machines was worn out so Miller had to get
new tooling made so they decided to change it and give them a newer look.
I was one of the customers Miller contacted for my opinion on what I thought
would be good.

The inards on the 251 and 252 are functionally the same as are the specs.

[DDA52]

Toy, huh? Obviously you have NEVER used one. Put my MM210 to shame in every category except duty cycle and extreme top end.

OK my scenario is not like the average guy but I use my MIG all the time to weld race car parts. I took some practice but I finally got it down.

So YES get the spool gun and help your racing buddies!

Scott
Fab Manager
Welders360

[LW Hiway]

I will make my decision in a month or so. Just wondered if anyone else has had a similar dilemma?

You'll have less trouble satisfying your needs than you'll have understanding everyone else's reasons for theirs.

allessence has given some solid info that most of us have tried to adhere to.

No matter how I think things will be, there is always the need for something a smidge bigger in capabilities. Following that rule of thumb just seems to work wonders for my peace of mind a year or two after a purchase of/for this sort of product.

I just wish I knew that my cooling fan will actually work as advertised.

[milomilo]

Originally Posted by Harvuskong

Pictures, wiring diagrams and parts numbers please!!

Attached are pics of my welder converted from AC to DC as you requested. The drawing is my best effort to show the electrical connections. You will need to get 4 diodes from a scrapped welder to make this modification. Be aware that most welders are scrapped due to failed diodes so you may have to tear into more than one to get your parts. My diodes did not have part numbers on them. They came from an Idealarc AC/DC machine. You will also have to buy, or as I did, make 2 tapered female sockects and 2 tapered male plugs in order to change from DCRP to DCSP. I used 3/8" pipe and filed them to a slight taper so the male plugs would go in tight. The males pluge were turned down on a lathe. I used steel, but the best material would be brass. At the back of each female socket I welded a nut and used a 1/4" X 1" bolt to secure the cables in the socket. The aluminum plates are 3/8".

The wood case I housed mine in is not an OSHA approved housing but it does give me electrical islolation and a way to attach it to my welder. Also remember to use plastic or rubber bushings for the bolts to attach the aluminum plates together or you will have some big sparks when you turn it on. I used a meter to check all of the electrical conections and isolation before I fired it up.

I was very lucky to have a neighbor who is a retired electronics expert to tell me how to hook all this up. He also converted his AC welder to DC.

If you need any more detailed pics or have any questions please let me know and I will try to help any way I can.

[milomilo]

Originally Posted by milomilo

I have an auction to go to tomorrow in Douglas, WY and we are going fishing on the Laramie River on Sunday, but on Monday I should be able to get you some pics of the welder modifications.

Auction was great. Since it was Memorial Day weekend, only 50 people showed up. Usually have 100 or more. Lots of items went cheap. A neighbor went with me and we loaded about 4,ooo lbs. of stuff on my 16' flatbed. 3,500 was his stuff.

Amongst many little items, I did get two 2" rigid pipe cutters for $10. That will save me time hauling in pipe to my bandsaw everytime I want to cut a piece. Also got a box of 50 hose clamps from 1/2" to 4" for $5.

Fishng was good today too. Got 9 from 16" down to 9". Five rainbows and 4 browns. Used some spinners I made this last winter. They only cost me about 10 cents apiece to make so I don't mind so much losing a few. The wife and I fished the Buegrass Creek on a private ranch about 30 miles west of Wheatland, WY. Nice to have the whole place to ourselves.

Also added pics of our new Tack Shed for all of our horse stuff. It is a 12' X 15" building. Still have to put in shelves before we can move the stuff from the garage to the new building. Going to put on log slabs for the local sawmill for siding. It will kind of look like a rustic log cabin.