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  #1  
Old 12-18-2006, 04:40 PM
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Cavalry Cavalry is offline
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Default Welding I beam

I found some W8-18's at the scrap yard. they are about 5 feet short for my crane project (20' total). Is it possible to weld them together and have them be reasonably strong and straight. My plans were to bevel, hold it straight with another I beam clamped to the flange, butt weld, then plate both sides on the web.

Since a trolley will be traveling down this it woudl be nice if it was not too bent. any pointers?
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  #2  
Old 12-18-2006, 05:06 PM
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Pile buck had a thread on how to do that.
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  #3  
Old 12-18-2006, 11:16 PM
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The strength is in the flanges, they can be spliced without stiffners.
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  #4  
Old 12-19-2006, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sberry27
The strength is in the flanges, they can be spliced without stiffners.
. . . not really true, lateral strength is in the flanges however they do very little for a vertical load in comparison with the web. when welding the beams together, be sure to bevel for a full pen weld, (a W8x18 only has a .230 web and .330 flange) be sure to keep the webs in line with eachother, this is the important part. you may find that the flanges do not exactly match up due to difference in rolling. this is ok, just be sure to "feather" the weld back to match them, I believe D1.1 states no more than a 2% slope.
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  #5  
Old 12-19-2006, 09:47 AM
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Default Use to do this for a living 20 years ago ,certified

Bevel web and flanges. add backer bar on all. good rot penetration.
weld it upfull ,with cover pass. remove backer ,grind out a little. weld up
other side. use pleanty of heat. you're fine
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  #6  
Old 12-20-2006, 11:05 AM
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This one is in my office.
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2006, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sberry27
This one is in my office.
That's a nice looking weld and on some real United States Steel.

Where, and what, is the load on it?
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  #8  
Old 12-20-2006, 01:48 PM
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Ok, first pic is the comp geek in my office. Some of these are older and we remodel some all the time. A beam runs from the column to the corner with an additional bearing bost in the corner and the walls are cement block including an internal seperation wall for the bath and utility room. The beam is the bearing for the floor joists as are the walls. The floor joists and the sheeting girts above are about the only wood in this place, We had a huge pine tree and my Dad cut some special 19 ft.
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2006, 02:01 PM
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My mason Bud was off work in the winter when I did this, I got a deal and by the time I framed, sheeted, insulated or drywalled it made sense to build it blocks and I paint it. I like my layout, where the entrances are in relationship to my entrance doors, makes for great traffic flow, a washup sink is convenient. On the other side of the building I have another sink. I added a guage to the water system,great to keep an eye on things and during an outage I can make sure the water system is fully charged.
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2006, 02:16 PM
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The plumbing is stacked over the first and second floor, I have shower, stool and wash basin, apt upstairs. The sinks, urinal combination in the shop keep the office bathroom use to a minimum, no one washes up greasy in the sink or pisses all over. My laundry is in the laundry utility room and the upstairs is my private quarters. This setup is very convenient, I read somewhere in farmshop plan about office locations in shops, mine is on the front where it should be right at the entrance. I park my car or whatever I am using in the shop, its warm and loading is easy, no snow removal.
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