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  #111  
Old 11-07-2009, 02:53 PM
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There are lots of manufacturers of aftermarket carbide guides, and most sell for about half of factory prices. I think that making these in a small shop is going to be tough, as the carbide faces have to be ground after the carbide is brazed to the steel supports.

http://www.bandsawguidesdirect.com/

http://sawguidescanada.com/sawguidescanada_005.htm

http://www.carbideguides.com/
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  #112  
Old 11-07-2009, 10:01 PM
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I've done some carbide brazing and this doesn't scare me in the least. The problem I have is getting the slots added into the CR steel.

I didn't have time to get pictures. I'll post tomorrow.
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  #113  
Old 11-08-2009, 05:22 PM
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So, here are the guides up close and personal.

As you can see they are very straight forwards. One of them says A2 and 0.50.

I'd be up for some made out of A2.


Precisionworks I did look at all the sites you put up, but low and behold nothing. Seems they are geared towards some of the new/bigger stuff.

Maybe I was just looking in the wrong area, but all of the ones I had seen looked like a saddle type.
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  #114  
Old 11-08-2009, 05:26 PM
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I changed the belt the other day. Good thing to, since it was worn some.
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  #115  
Old 11-08-2009, 05:33 PM
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My first bandsaw project. My friend Dominick came by last night as I was closing up shop and said. I need something more stable for my Mitersaw. The plastic plates are warping and this is what happened.

Dominick is a composite wood turner. I'll post some pictures of his work tomorrow or Tuesday.

He said" Got any alum plate????. Well yes sir I do.

Well, the saw worked really well once I get speeds setup okay. My biggest problem was band teeth counts.

I have 2 new blades sitting in boxes that can't use since I have no guides.

So, I ended up using the 1/2 stock I welded up orginally. It worked pretty well.

The chart on the machine specified 4500sfpm on 6061Alum 1/4thick. I used some 3/16 but the speed was much to fast. Basically overheated the alum and welded it right back in place.

Around 2000-1500 was pretty good. This was figured out at the end.
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  #116  
Old 11-08-2009, 06:52 PM
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You made it work with what you had that's what counts.
Looks like it did a good job.

I enjoyed this thread even though I don't chime in.
The pros here help a lot don't they?
Good work on the saw.

John
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  #117  
Old 11-08-2009, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post
I used some 3/16 but the speed was much to fast. Basically overheated the alum and welded it right back in place.

Around 2000-1500 was pretty good. This was figured out at the end.
I have found that when the blade I have doesn't match the material that I'm cutting but it's the only blade I have, some stick wax on the blade can make a bad thing a little better. The wax I use is from Castrol and comes in a tube about the size of a tube of grease. Just run the saw and let the blade cut into the wax to coat the blade.
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  #118  
Old 11-10-2009, 07:41 AM
bunkclimber bunkclimber is offline
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Default vert bandsaw, speed control

I have a 36" Tannewitz metal bandsaw,it uses a 3hp,1725rpm Baldor DC motor driving a two-speed gearbox.The DC motor uses a DC drive which makes variable DC from a single or 3ph supply.Mid-80's built in USA,bought used from the Air Force.Very nice speed control over the motor,even torque over the whole speed range.The drives are cheap to replace,if I ever have to,I'll go with a bigger 5hp 3ph motor and use a VFD.
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  #119  
Old 11-13-2009, 08:33 AM
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I wanted to add the pictures of my friends work. This is the reason he needed stiffer plates for the miter saw.
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  #120  
Old 11-13-2009, 04:52 PM
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Beautiful work, Jenn.
Tell Dominick to not be such a stranger.
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