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  #11  
Old 07-01-2020, 08:17 AM
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I have put on 4 steel roofs on buildings in my life.
They are wonderful.

There is no way I will ever put steel onto old shingles. The first time I roofed our house, it was a 1850 two story. We had ant problems in the house, and had recently had the house fumigated.
I was assured that just slap down purlins and go at it, so I bought them.
When I started the job I was soon covered in ants, so I started ripping shingles. I found layer one was rotted pine sawn shingles, covered with layer two, sawn ceder shingles, rotted. Layer 3 was asphalt, and layer 4, the current layer, was sawn ceder.
One was nailed onto the other. I used a flat shovel to strip them off, nails and all.
As I was ripping off this mess, the ant eggs were pouring off the roof like white rain, and there were windrows of them below on the drip line.

I've always removed the old roof before strapping, ever since.
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  #12  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:11 AM
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Neither used purloins but the roofs were good and flat not curled . I see both ways here . The Amish roofers all use purloins the Mexican companies don't . I do not know of many roofers around here that are not a member of those groups .
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:18 AM
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The manuf I used, stated emphatically that you cannot put the steel down on top of shingles.
Warranty void.

Steel roofs expand & contract allot, and the constant rubbing over the granules
ruins the steel.
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoy View Post
if you're not using purlins (and I find it hard to argue with doug's logic of fire hazard and noise) then there's no point in using heavy steel.

you will want to make sure you do a real good job stripping the shingles and removing nails though or they will show as dimples in the tin.
Well ...now that you mention it...I did upgrade to the best material offered,
that being 28 ga. Better paint and all.

Also, about 1 week after the install, I was trimming tree branches all around the house (man that $59 HF chainsaw on a stick is GREAT!)
and dropped a 30' long branch hard on the roof, maybe 8" dia.
BAM it hit, and I thought "Oh Well, I'll just hire the crew to come back out and
slide out the one dented panel"

Nope, no damage, no kinks, no dents, nothing.

If it was on 24" center purlins (they all space it this much) I'm sure there
would be a dent or even worse, a crease, at the overlap.
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2020, 02:19 PM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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I put Menards Pro-Snap on my 3.5 in 12. Hidden fastener. I strongly considered heavier material, from Fabral I think. Since it was my first steel roof, I went with cheaper. I stripped cedar shakes and replaced some decking. I also had to re-work some framing.

You can clearly see any dip or rise in the roof plane with the continuous sheets of steel. Had I realized that, I may have spent more time on the framing, or used something else.

I put titanium underlayment over fanfold. Mostly because I knew it would sit for long periods before I could get it covered.

Get skateboard shoes to walk on it, and yes, only when it is dry.

I don’t know if it makes any difference on resale value.
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  #16  
Old 07-01-2020, 03:26 PM
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Talked with the roofer this morning . He said the factor for purloins was if it was solid decked or old strapping for cedar roof . Resale ? ask a realtor .
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:25 PM
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I have exposed fastener R panel on my shop in the galv alum color. 20 years and not a problem. No ceiling in the shop, so I would be able to see anything. I am planning to use a snap lok hidden fastener standing seam style on my house roof when I do the addition later this year. Personally I would tear off the shingle and put down synthetic underlayment.
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2020, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
I have exposed fastener R panel on my shop in the galv alum color. 20 years and not a problem. No ceiling in the shop, so I would be able to see anything. I am planning to use a snap lok hidden fastener standing seam style on my house roof when I do the addition later this year. Personally I would tear off the shingle and put down synthetic underlayment.
What problems would you have? Excessive sunlight? It never rains in AZ...
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2020, 07:48 AM
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Thanks for all the input, as always a lot of experience here.
I will likely hire some kids for the tear-off.

The deck is currently 1/2" CDX, would putting down a second
layer of 1/2" CDX be worth it, I would glue it and screw it down.
Or is that just a waste of money.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2020, 07:51 AM
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Good luck. Potato forks work ok. If you were closer I would loan you the roofer shovels . I'm to old and fat to be climbing on roofs anymore .
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