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  #191  
Old 09-13-2020, 09:29 AM
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update time.

The lift has proven it's worth in the building of the teaching center.


Everything has worked and with the 4 marks on the timing pulley I know it's out of time but now sure which way to adjust.. Has a little run on after key stop. If I remember correctly it's advanced to far.?????


As a side note.. I reached out to the NEB (new england blacksmith group) for help and 4 guys showed up yesterday..


One of the guys wanted to learn the manlift so gave him a brief instruction and sent him on his way with the info of not pushing the hydraulics so if he hears the bypass to let off the pressure.

He did a great job and was very cautious and methodical in use..

What he did do those is keep the basket rotate longer and it worked.. So, now every function works including the man basket rotation..

I said he worked his magic.
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  #192  
Old 09-13-2020, 09:55 AM
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Good stuff Jen.

Glad you got some good help.

Don’t know about your timing marks. Looks like it may be time to pull #1 plug and find top dead center and see which mark lines up and go from there.

Scott


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  #193  
Old 09-13-2020, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Good stuff Jen.

Glad you got some good help.

Don’t know about your timing marks. Looks like it may be time to pull #1 plug and find top dead center and see which mark lines up and go from there.

Scott


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Never even occurred to me to check for number 1 TDC to see which mark is correct.

Got some oil leaks now too.. But only a few more days of serious use.
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  #194  
Old 10-13-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post
Never even occurred to me to check for number 1 TDC to see which mark is correct.
What Scotts said... Pull the spark plug and ground the coil wire, put your fingertip over the spark plug hole and have some one click the engine over a little at a time until compression shoots past your finger. Then look at the mark. It should be around the pointer. Before the pointer is "advanced" or BTDC. After is "retarded" or ATDC.
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  #195  
Old 10-14-2020, 04:58 AM
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I stuck a screw driver inside the cylinder while I brought it up to TDC.

The mark was the 1 in the middle.

So the reason why all of this is because of the tendency to kick over when the key is shut off. (dieseling).. It doesn't seem to matter more advance or not it still does it.

It's not terrible.. Just a blimp or 2 extra fire cycles per cylinder but just not used to it. Stop means stop..

I might do some decarb with some fine mist of water into the carb before next oil change.
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If I defend myself I am attacked.

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I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

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DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #196  
Old 10-15-2020, 11:29 AM
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Might want to try using some Sea Foam spray in the carb while running the engine. Rev it up. Do it outside. Lots of smoke.
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  #197  
Old 10-15-2020, 01:39 PM
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Is that carb supposed to have an anti-dieseling solenoid maybe?
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  #198  
Old 10-15-2020, 03:20 PM
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This might be it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	anti-diesel-1.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	186.5 KB
ID:	158036  
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  #199  
Old 10-15-2020, 05:32 PM
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It used to be that to clean the carbon out of an engine you would use kerosene. Pour it slowly into the "Hot" running engine, till the engine stalls out. Not enough to hydro lock it. Let it sit for a couple of hours. Then fire it back up. The kero would loosen the carbon, the combustion would break it up and the crud would exit via the tail pipe. This won't work on a Diesel, so don't try it on one. DAHIK. It has worked on saw mill and tractor engines, spark ignition, that have Dieseled after being shut down.
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  #200  
Old 10-18-2020, 06:14 PM
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In the picture of the carb above is a fuel control solenoid on the side of the carb.

You should be able to put your finger on there and feel it click when you turn the ignition on and off.

If the fuel was old at one time and the solenoid opened it might be stuck open. You can usually just unscrew it out and clean it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

If it is stuck open you can sometimes spray it and work the plunger back and forth to get it cleaned out and operating free again. The magnet is stronger than the closing spring or the spring may be broken

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