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  #1  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:23 AM
LW Hiway's Avatar
LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Default Small trailer tail roller ideas needed

As everything I do is done alone, I've got two lifting devices that are used on the tail end of the trailer that are winched to and fro from behind the trailer and up n over for placing heavy items into the trailer for transport.

One in particular was shown in thread for the SB lathe pickup and put down a few years ago.

The other is more like a log lift and works the same way in function using chain and an electric set of winches.

My problem is that it would appear that a tail roller attached to the rear of the trailer behind where a tail board would be placed for easier rolling a log into the trailer.

My problem as it always is, is to fabricate something so large and overbuilt it's just silly.

So I'm asking for assistance for sizing materials.

I can see pillow block bearings on each end and one or two in the mid span. Of course pipe carriers with grease zerks and bolted to the rear frame would work equally well as often as I use them.

I would think that a 1 1/2" solid rod and have a suitable sized larger dia 80 or better in wall thickness with set screws from pipe to shaft attaching/mating would work.

It would seem that a 2" o.d. pipe would suffice for the roller and would see the roller more even with the bed of the trailer rather than lower or higher.

I've got several old growth trees at the farm to drop as well as a friend waiting on me to help drop and remove a half dozen of his in cypress, oak and a few other species. Having a suitable bandsaw setup at the farm I do find time to slab cut or cut sized lumber materials as needed.

Off loading, loading or moving the bulk of tree's dropped is a no brainer at the farm as I have the all-terrain FL. Too far away to travel with the FL demands the use of the trailers, one 12' and the other 16' as needed.

Ideas would be welcomed.
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  #2  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:29 AM
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digger doug digger doug is offline
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What I can add...

Agri supply has "disc" bearings (with the square hole, or round)
and a large O.D. cheaply. They are a big bearing, with a good dirt seal.

Maybe put a row of them in a bored to fit pipe.

I bought several for the ditch witch rebuild, they are used on the chain
sprockets.
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:46 AM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Good idea D'D'.

I'm sitting here thinking, which is dangerous, of what I use for larger boat trailers etc for the vee shaped center keel rollers found which just run without bearings etc and attached with simple pad eyes welded in place and the roller shafts using clips to hold them in place.

I've got a pair of rollers for trailers one in a vee and the other just flat and both with major i.d.'s of 6" for a 30' all Al in-land work mini-tug I did some work on. Each is rated at several ton capacity and will easily work for what I need. Cheap way out of a problem. At 2 1/2' long, more than enough wide for a log using the vee roller etc.

Although it may need a full roller along the rear of the trailer should there be nubs of a branch as part of the log needing pulled up and into the trailers.

I'm thinking non bearing use and just wide load bearing surfaced pad eyes of at least 1" thick and grease able would work with little problems. I've got several drops of 3" wide 1" f/b that would/could see life in this.
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God, if you would grant me one request through Prayer, please help me be the Man my Dog thinks I am. Please.

Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

I never thought I'd live long enough to become a grumpy old bastard. Here I am, killing it!
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2018, 08:10 AM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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Jef, I've gone through this one, when I was scrapping cars, they always hang up when winching onboard with the exhaust system or something catching.
So, i made a roller out of 3" well tubing that had arms that attached to the rear stake pockets with a pin. I had the roller top at 1 inch above the deck, below the deck is a waste of metal.

It worked out. Bearings can be heavy duty or just nylon bushings, at that rpm it does not matter. I used steel and grease.

Inevitably, it became a pain in the ass to install/remove as required.

I removed the roller, and split out a section of pipe full length about 1/4 of circumference, and welded the notched pipe onto the rear end of the trailer. Now the trailer has a rounded end that is easy on the winch cable and allows the hanging crap off a car to slide over it.
I found, for my purpose, that it was just as effective, less weight and did not rattle.
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2018, 08:52 AM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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For more/different ideas, google atv log trailers. They are using different ideas, in a lightweight package to load up logs.

I do like Gerry’s round tailboard idea, even for a general use trailer I can see that being a nice feature.


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  #6  
Old 05-05-2018, 09:06 AM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Thanks all
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Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

I never thought I'd live long enough to become a grumpy old bastard. Here I am, killing it!
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  #7  
Old 05-05-2018, 01:52 PM
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digger doug digger doug is offline
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I see the prices have increased since the last year, here
is one with a 1.77 dia round bore, same "triple lip seals"
as the other disc harrow bearings with square bores:
https://www.agrisupply.com/disc-harrow-bearing/p/36415/

Might work better than 1 1/8" square.
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  #8  
Old 05-05-2018, 05:35 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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I've got a few at the farm in different sizes O.D. with different profiles and sizes for the I.D.'s.

Thinking on their use just would not be suitable due to the overall sizes for mounting on either end etc.

I do want the roller to be the bigger intrusion on the back and not the bearings etc.

Gerry I was thinking that for logs having it only flush to allow the sharp profile of the trailers tail to not drab on said log, the roller set level with the deck would be sufficient. Thinking on it after you posted, it might be better to have at least a 1/4" of roller above the deck. As nothing gets carried without large 3" straps for binding or in some cases chains and binders, that a tail roller would be no more unsafe than a flat surface.

I had several pieces of 2 7/8th very heavy wall tubing but may need to add a pipe inside the tubing to better fit the 1 1/2" rod. I remember the pieces as being 24" so I may well use them and end up with 3 separate independent rollers using one common shaft.

Thanks for the mentions as this will keep things simple and easier to maintain.
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God, if you would grant me one request through Prayer, please help me be the Man my Dog thinks I am. Please.

Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

I never thought I'd live long enough to become a grumpy old bastard. Here I am, killing it!
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2018, 06:52 PM
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For the kind of loads you say you'll be loading, Gerry's fixed round tail is the cheapest and likely the least hassle to build and use. Early bed trucks used a large OD round tail. If I can find the picture, I'll post it later.

I've been around a few hundred of the roller end truck beds and trailers. Typically, they use large OD pipe with a bearing on each end and two pairs of external rollers equally spaced under the span to support the roller. These rollers can easily support 110,000#+ while loading and spotting skid loads. Occasionally I see an additional belly roller on an air bag rig halfway down the trailer that makes shaking a delicate load off much smoother.
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
I've got a few at the farm in different sizes O.D. with different profiles and sizes for the I.D.'s.

I had several pieces of 2 7/8th very heavy wall tubing but may need to add a pipe inside the tubing to better fit the 1 1/2" rod. I remember the pieces as being 24" so I may well use them and end up with 3 separate independent rollers using one common shaft.

Thanks for the mentions as this will keep things simple and easier to maintain.
2.375 well tube is a sliding fit inside 2.875" tube.
Unless you regularly hang stuff over the rear of the trailer don't be shy on a bit of height. Logs are so irregular, an inch will not get in the way. And like you said, proper load securement is the shit.
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You got freedom of speech, if you don't say too much.
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The virtue is always a cover for the sin. That's the key to understanding the modern left. Whatever they're accusing you of doing, they are doing themselves but more enthusiastically. And that's definitely the story of Justin Trudeau. Tucker Carlson
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