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  #11  
Old 04-29-2018, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Too late Neal. Sent Dale the address.
I’ll make do.

Nice work on the hammer. I have a couple lead hammers that come in handy for whacking things that should not be whacked.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Farmersamm View Post
The restoration is very nice BTW. Don't mean to mess with you on that. Just consider what the hammer was intended for. No sparking around petroleum products, knocking stubborn stuff out of things, but not really something to hit your pristine machine tools. (IMHO)
"IMHO" Your plastic hammer don't work very good for removing bearing races, nor installing them.....
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2018, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
If you have to "seat" a morse taper drill or arbour with a hammer there's something wrong with the taper--should never have to do it...
After I got the MT2 reamer last year and took a cleanup cut it does not slip anymore, but I always feel better with a little tap.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:06 AM
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I have several brass or copper hammers. The problem with many non-ferous metals, even silver, it that they work harden. They become hard and brittle after using them a bit. You think tapping your nicely machined part into something with a brass hammer will not mar it and look at that, you got dings in it.

There is one material that does not work harden, and that is lead. I made two hammers out of lead, and they will not damage a surface, but I made them of pure lead and they are so soft they mushroom easily. So I have a harder lead alloy courtesy of Camdigger, and as I have put my hammers back into ingots, the new hammers to come will be a harder material.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:08 AM
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I've been transitioning away from driving bearing races lately. I've switched to shrinking the race by welding it. It's about the easiest way to remove them, IF YOU HAVE A SITUATION WHERE YOU CAN SAFELY RUN A BEAD. Which isn't 100% of the time.

I had to remove the race on my headstock.

Anyways, I protected the bore with another old bearing cone, and welded her up.

Once the weld cooled, the race shrunk, and a gentle pull (not involving any banging) with slide hammer......it was out. Eazy Peazy.

The new race spent a night in the deep freeze, and slipped in the next day. It was seated with a driver made from the old race that had been removed prior.

I wouldn't recommend this for everybody, but if done carefully, it's a sure fire way to beat the drama. I suppose MIG would be better, what with no slag all over the place, but I'm just used to working with a stick welder I guess.
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Farmersamm View Post
I've been transitioning away from driving bearing races lately. I've switched to shrinking the race by welding it. It's about the easiest way to remove them, IF YOU HAVE A SITUATION WHERE YOU CAN SAFELY RUN A BEAD. Which isn't 100% of the time.
.
Kinda hard to put that bearing back in with all that weld bead on it.

Use the brass hammer/punch next time....
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2018, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I have several brass or copper hammers. The problem with many non-ferous metals, even silver, it that they work harden. They become hard and brittle after using them a bit. You think tapping your nicely machined part into something with a brass hammer will not mar it and look at that, you got dings in it.

There is one material that does not work harden, and that is lead. I made two hammers out of lead, and they will not damage a surface, but I made them of pure lead and they are so soft they mushroom easily. So I have a harder lead alloy courtesy of Camdigger, and as I have put my hammers back into ingots, the new hammers to come will be a harder material.
I have a 5 gallon bucket of tire weights I need to make a couple lead hammers as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
Kinda hard to put that bearing back in with all that weld bead on it.

Use the brass hammer/punch next time....
I think he prefers the plastic one.
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2018, 04:58 PM
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I think he prefers the plastic one.
Yes, he thinks they are to be used everywhere, and brass should be outlawed.

He thinks many things.....
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  #19  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:01 PM
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Yep, putting them weld shrunk / tapped out races back in is easy, but them little pin lookin', go roundy pieces just don't live very long... No mater how well ya grease 'em.

I've learned to put in the new ones that come with the bearings, using a tool? I bought at horrible fright. looks good, works fine, last's long time. (with pretty much any bashing tool I pick up)

RED the facetious sheep dog
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  #20  
Old 04-30-2018, 07:43 PM
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I got a set of Blue Point seal and race drivers about 6 months ago at auction. Gonna try them out next time I do some bearing work. Usually use brass drifts or soft pin punches for races and seals, in and out. Might make me change my habits.
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