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Old 07-14-2019, 09:05 PM
Steeveedee Steeveedee is offline
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Default Metal Bending

Is there anyone close to Simi Valley (back of beyond, yes I know) who has a roller and a brake? I need a piece of 1/8" aluminum strap rolled to a 21" diameter, and a piece of 25 gauge aluminum sheet formed on a 1/2" radius. I'm making a fan shroud for my old truck. It has had heating problems forever (we inherited it from my wife's parents) and I'd like to kill that problem completely. Long story, which I'll tell the person who bends the metal, if they care!
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:43 PM
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Walker Walker is offline
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You can easily bend the metal using a plywood buck method. The flatbar can be bent to the shape of the cutout by hand. What truck? Lots of this type stuff is available repop, or universal through places like speedwaymotors.com or lmctruck.com
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:00 PM
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astronut astronut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
You can easily bend the metal using a plywood buck method. The flatbar can be bent to the shape of the cutout by hand. What truck? Lots of this type stuff is available repop, or universal through places like speedwaymotors.com or lmctruck.com
This is the route I would go rather than trying to fabricate my own stuff. Most likely would be less expensive in the long run figuring in materials cost and time involved cost to fabricate wise.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:12 AM
jniolon jniolon is offline
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Steve
what is the make and model of your truck ??
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:58 AM
Steeveedee Steeveedee is offline
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It's a '70 Chevy with a big block 400. I went to a 20" fan from 18" for the added cooling capacity. I measured the stock shroud, which is 21" inside the "tunnel", but I didn't catch that the fan wasn't centered in it and the new one rubs on the bottom. I can bend the sheet metal over a form, but I'd like for the strap to be nicely curved. I guess I could just hammer it into submission and paint it black to hide the hammer marks.

The old fan also was too far inside the shroud and didn't couple with it that well, so the new shroud will match the fan better. I looked online but there is nothing with a 21" opening for the fan. A factory shroud won't work, and even the formed ones only appear to have a 16" opening for the fan.
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:12 PM
jniolon jniolon is offline
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well, can you enlarge the opening in the shroud then extend your fan with a spacer to move it further into the shroud ??

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Old 07-15-2019, 01:44 PM
Steeveedee Steeveedee is offline
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The fan is too far into the shroud already, with the shortest fan clutch available. The engine was rebuilt many years ago and it was reinstalled in the forward position on the frame, based on the visual cues. So, I'm making a shallower shroud instead of making all the changes to put it back. I'd have to cut the exhaust and a bunch of stuff that I don't want to do.

I did manage to form the aluminum strap. It came out pretty well, I think. I'll rivet a strap to keep the loop closed and then post a pic. Next up is to make a form for the sheet metal part.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:14 PM
kbs2244 kbs2244 is offline
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think about eliminating the shroud and going with a electric fan.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:21 PM
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I dont think I would eliminate the shroud regardless if staying with a mechanical fan or an electrical fan. The shroud helps to direct airflow through the radiator to help cool the liquid coolant. Back in the day way back when, I discarded the shroud on my bracket drag car with an electric fan and it always ran over the temp , boiled over and proceeded to crack the block and heads. Do not cause more problems for yourself! Just saying!
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:00 PM
Steeveedee Steeveedee is offline
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I was tempted to just run without the shroud, but that's not an answer. It's been running up to 260F when pulling hills with the travel trailer. That's usually a clog in the coolant circulation. It also ran hot at idle, which is air flow. I put a new radiator in it but that didn't help. I went and bought a tester to see if there were combustion byproducts in the coolant, but that showed no combustion leaks- no burnt gaskets or cracks in the heads or block. But I did notice that the flow was pretty puny. So I pulled the thermostat and checked it on the stove. It opened when it should, so even open, there isn't enough flow. So, I drilled 3 holes in the thermostat flange. Now it sits idling in gear at 195F instead of creeping up to 260F. This is a 180 degree thermostat, so I'm thinking once I get the fan shroud coupled with the fan for air flow that that will bring it down more. Note that this all goes on without even using the air conditioning. The truck should run with the AC on and not overheat.
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