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  #11  
Old 11-24-2012, 11:45 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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Are you cutting notches in the underground part of the post so that it fills with concrete? If I were you, I would use wedges of wood to hold them but it shouldn't take long for the post to set up where you want it. If it is a real problem I would strategically tack braces in places that will be concealed on the finished product.
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  #12  
Old 11-24-2012, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
Yeah, I can't see prefabbing that being of much benefit. Not difficult welds to do in place. Plenty of room for mistakes on your angles if you prefab and the holes don't end up dug in exactly the right spots.
I agree, on that rail for sure. There is so little curve that you could fab 40 feet and it would flex enough to install.
But in all cases....I'm doing 4 gates at the moment....Installation is extra, above and beyond the cost of the build. So if he wants to cost you money, do it his way and he can pay for it.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2012, 11:47 AM
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Harve had a tutotial he wrote here I believe?
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  #14  
Old 11-25-2012, 12:14 PM
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RancherBill RancherBill is offline
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How do you hold the uprights in place to pour the concrete though?
I had to hold something like you describe. I used a 2x4 and plumbers strapping to hold the pipe. You then stake the 2x4 to get the exact position. Here's a pic of something similar to give you the idea.
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  #15  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:14 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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I had to hold something like you describe. I used a 2x4 and plumbers strapping to hold the pipe. You then stake the 2x4 to get the exact position. Here's a pic of something similar to give you the idea.
That sounds like a great way to do it.
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  #16  
Old 11-25-2012, 08:53 PM
karl-nc karl-nc is offline
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Harve had a tutotial he wrote here I believe?
how might I find that?
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