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  #31  
Old 02-21-2013, 12:33 PM
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H80N H80N is offline
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And Gabriel

before you get any more overheated and out of breath...

please take the time to read/study this booklet..

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf

you will find that it may answer many of your questions and concerns...

they have put a lot of basic stick welding info into a concise booklet...
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  #32  
Old 02-21-2013, 02:55 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Quote:
It is pretty big and VERY heavy.From the 80s
Means nothing with respect to a welding machine. Means nothing with respect to anything unless it's an anvil and even then.

Determine just exactly what type of steel/metal the pipe is your trying to stick together. Does it have any sort of sacrificial coating? Al or other coatings? From the description, it sounds like galvanized pipe which btw will weld just about the same way unless that coating is removed.

For the size rod your speaking of using, your 'heavy' 80 amp machine is not suitable for even the most experienced welder holding the stinger.

If your insistant on using that sized rod, buy a 1lb of new rod and see where that gets you.

And if your still insistant on speaking to an Admin, be aware that you were. He's the first one that gave you the most qualified response.

Why does this thread remind me a a blacksmith educator that wears a fancy leather smock and open toed clogs and refuses to listen to the specific answers he got for the specific questions he asked for to begin with.

BTW, with respect to Heavy revisited, the Spruce
Goose was heavy as well as the Edsel. Neither of which fulfilled the needs of which they were produced.

If in fact you think you've be ribbed, ridiculed or insulted, then by God do not show up at some of the other forums here in the US. You ain't seen nothing yet! BTW, you may want to come up with another 'handle'/name if your that thin skinned. I does not fit the personality.
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  #33  
Old 02-21-2013, 03:12 PM
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Shade Tree Welder Shade Tree Welder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
...From the description, it sounds like galvanized pipe which btw will weld just about the same way unless that coating is removed.
Jef,

Should we tell him that zinc welding fumes are very toxic,
and could result in death???

Ron


http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/pel88/1314-13.html

http://www.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-25.pdf

http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tuto...n=safety3/demo

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever
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Last edited by Shade Tree Welder; 02-21-2013 at 03:21 PM.
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  #34  
Old 02-21-2013, 09:15 PM
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cramd cramd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Why bother????
He won't take honest advice on anything else, so don't waste your breath.
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  #35  
Old 02-22-2013, 01:27 AM
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Floptop Floptop is offline
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I know its a little late now, but I'm not going to waste the experience from today.
Just for the hell of it while at my brothers place I looked and found some 3/32 6013 electrodes, same open box, in the same place on the same shelf as when I used a few to weld up a floor pan in Dad's old 64 Chev pickup in the late 1980's. My brother didn't even know he had them (dad didn't weld), so they have been sitting in an open box, in an unheated metal machine shed for at least 20 to 25 years.
I pulled one out and using brothers Hobart Stickmate LX 235 I ran a couple of passes DCEP on some 1 x 2 tubing. The dial doesn't register on the Stickmate so amperage is anybodys guess, it was way hot for the first pass so I cranked it down to far for the second pass and ran it too cold. Anyway the 6013 worked fine, I broke the second pass in the vise. It bent at least 45 degrees before really weakening and was still holding on by a sliver at about 160 degrees. I'm sure if I had the amperage closer to right I could have bent it 180 degrees without it comming apart.
Just saying your problem may NOT be the ELECTRODE
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  #36  
Old 02-23-2013, 12:38 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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I have a 100 amp "transformer" type AC welder.
It's limit is about 1/8" thick steel.

The only real rods it burns are the 6013, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32. if you are learning start with the smaller rods they don't stick as much.
IIRC the 6013 rods require a little moisture so a rod dryer is not recommended. unless the flex crumbles off the rod the rods should have a long shelf life if not for ever.

There is some type of powder metal rod that started and burned good but the welds would break, useless rod.

Because of the low output voltage of the welder it is best to try different manufactures of rods (samples).
I ran into some Lincoln rods that had a noticeable thicker flux coating that did not do well.

I haven't tried the 6013LV rods, I believe the LV signifies "low voltage" specifically made for the small 100 amp welders.


The first thing to change on the low amp welders is the work clamp (don't call them ground clamps), the word "ground" gets confused with the house grounding system.
You need all the power you can get so get a good work clamp.

Originally the house had a 120 volt 30 amp service when it was upgraded there was a noticeable difference the welder did better.
Best to avoid long extension cords.

===
If you don't know what type of steel you are welding then you must be aware that some steels will harden when they cool off and become brittle.
In some cases if the heat zone is concentrated on one section the other section may stress out and crack.

===
I pretty much started with small stick welders before high school and because all we had was a 120 volt service, no 240 volts.
In high school all I wanted to do is run the lathe, not interested in welding so after a few years I asked the teacher I wanted to try a real "Arc" welder. it was a Lincoln torpedo welder, after I burnt a few rods WOW, it looked as if I had been welding for years.

The point is a small under powered welder can be harder to learn.
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:46 PM
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This is why Cutter is so keen on our punctuation and spelling. Man can you imagine how many broken finger nails there would be if we all forgot our semi-colons; I'm just saying.
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