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  #11  
Old 07-19-2008, 01:20 PM
Don G Don G is offline
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Bob,

Don't misunderstand, I just meant that as an expression of admiration for such fine work.

The instructions you gave are great and I will give them a try when I get a suitable piece of metal.

Thanks very much.

Don
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2008, 02:53 PM
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Wonderful knives. Bob, you're a craftsman.

Teacher
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2008, 04:10 PM
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From “Materials and Processes in Manufacturing” comes this advice: “From zero to about 0.3 per cent carbon content, steel is not hardenable, except with extremely high cooling rates which are not practical for most normal heat treating but which can exist in certain welding operations and when thin sections are involved. In both of these exceptions, unexpected and frequently undesirable hardness can result.”

If you want to harden lower carbon steel, it is sometimes done with a quench solution containing Sodium Hydroxide (lye). Watch your eyes. Do not use it with higher carbon content steel.
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2008, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Warner View Post
3. Entire knife cleaned and polished:
its hard to tell but after its polished can you still see the damascus?
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2008, 05:59 PM
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Calvary,

The polished spike knife is a regular railroad spike, not damascus.

To answer your question, When I got done making the damascus spike I polished it up like the other one shown. If you turn the knife and use light, you can see the layers of steel but not really easy.

What I did was take that polished damascus knife and dunked it in Ferric Chloride for about 15 minutes. That brings out the pattern like you see it in the photo. The FE eats the two steels at different rates and one steel is higher than the other steel because it etched slower. Just lightly sand the TOPS off of the higher material and you get what you see in the photo. I put True Oil on it to prevent rusting.

Bob
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  #16  
Old 07-20-2008, 09:55 AM
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Bob, do you mean Tru-Oil, the Birchwood Casey gun stock finish?
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  #17  
Old 07-20-2008, 11:11 AM
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Thumbs-up Bob, those knives do look great.

Tony
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  #18  
Old 07-20-2008, 06:44 PM
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USMCPOP,

Yes, that is what I used. This knife will not be used but will be handled a lot. The oils from fingerprints promote rusting so a coat of True oil keeps the prints off the steel.

If I were going to be using this knife I would not have used it and just oiled it as needed or used minwax, Mothers or something similar.

Bob
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2009, 10:17 PM
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Default HC RR Spikes

I have had pretty good success hardening HC RR spikes in fast quench oil. After tempering I have tested them at rockwell 52. This is not as hard as some alloy steels or the higher carbon 10xx series but good enough for some applications. ( in my case tomahawks)
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2009, 08:53 AM
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Default RR Spike Tomahawk

Didnt have a picture on the laptop last night. Had to come downstairs this morning to the desktop to upload it. I have noticed that the newer HC spikes seem to have a higher carbon content, are harder to forge by hand and harden better than the old ones. Its a crap shoot as to actually what youve got but its been working for me.
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