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Old 08-27-2019, 04:03 PM
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Default 2 speed motor wiring

A friend’s dad gave me this fan a year or so ago that was missing the motor. I finally found a suitable 1/2 horse 2 speed motor in an old washing machine to cobble together.

I have been reading and researching the wiring for the last two weeks but I still can’t wrap my head around it

I included a picture of how I have it wired right now. It starts and runs but when you shut it off the motor still tries to turn at a slow rpm. Until you unplug the cord or unplug the capacitor.

Thanks
Zach
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:42 PM
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Looks like you should put the capacitor wire on the other side of the switch to cut the power to it.
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Looks like you should put the capacitor wire on the other side of the switch to cut the power to it.
I agree and I think it would fix the problem but without going with a DPDT switch wouldn’t it overheat the capacitor using it to power the run windings?

(I’m hoping there is a way to achieve high/low function of the motor with only a SPDT switch if my wiring checks out) maybe I am crazy

Edit: it would work on a single speed with the capacitor after the switch but with the dual speed switch would it back feed to both the high/low windings at the same time? or does the centrifugal switch (pictured above) mechanically eliminate that possibility?
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Last edited by Camaro Zach; 08-27-2019 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:16 PM
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Someone will be along that should know. I know on a furnace blower the white is ground and the black is hot and what ever colored wire you put to the black gives you another speed and the capacitor is wired separately.
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Old 08-27-2019, 08:51 PM
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On some motors I have the high(er) speed(s) are provided by the capacitor and I suspect that's what's going on there. The capacitor might be the run capacitor for high speed.
I have an antique Edison 3 or 4 speed "house" fan in my bedroom that is entirely dependent on the capacitor for speed selection.
Having said that, I am certainly no motor guru. . I like to wait for scotts or someone to dissect the motor questions.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:20 PM
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do you know the name of the washing machine?
do a search on the motors model number.
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Old 08-28-2019, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro Zach View Post
or does the centrifugal switch (pictured above) mechanically eliminate that possibility?
The centrifugal switch removes the "cap and start winding" from power once the motor gets up to 80% rpm, only used for starting otherwise they burn up.

assuming you have the centrifugal switch wired as need be, you need to add an on/off switch.

I'm not sure what would happen if you switch the hi/lo switch while the motor is running,
so only select hi or low when the power is off AND motor at a "FULL" full stop!
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Last edited by GWIZ; 08-28-2019 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 08-28-2019, 06:13 PM
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Hey I was right
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Old 08-28-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
The centrifugal switch removes the "cap and start winding" from power once the motor gets up to 80% rpm, only used for starting otherwise they burn up.

assuming you have the centrifugal switch wired as need be, you need to add an on/off switch.

I'm not sure what would happen if you switch the hi/lo switch while the motor is running,
so only select hi or low when the power is off AND motor at a "FULL" full stop!
But there are start capacitors & there are run capacitors.
You have to find out which you're dealing with.
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:06 PM
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If I wire it as pictured with the current SPDT switch it is going to energize the high and low windings at the same time no matter if the switch is on high or low. Correct?

So the easiest solution is a DPDT switch so the start circuit can be isolated.

Thanks for the help
Zach
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