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  #21  
Old 01-24-2018, 10:26 PM
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Be careful with the drill type nibbler on 16 ga. I bought one of those and it works great until you slow down. If you have a drill that can lock the trigger on full throttle, use that one. It uses inertia to cut through the metal, if you slow down and the rod has less inertia then the pressure on the cutting side of the die increases to the point of breaking the nose off of the bottom of the nibbler. Happened to me twice using a variable speed drill.
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  #22  
Old 01-24-2018, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barn Owl View Post
Be careful with the drill type nibbler on 16 ga. I bought one of those and it works great until you slow down. If you have a drill that can lock the trigger on full throttle, use that one. It uses inertia to cut through the metal, if you slow down and the rod has less inertia then the pressure on the cutting side of the die increases to the point of breaking the nose off of the bottom of the nibbler. Happened to me twice using a variable speed drill.
The one in the pic is intended for use with a impact driver I'm sure the impact force it is utilizing but i prolly wont use it on anything bigger than 20ga.
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  #23  
Old 01-25-2018, 09:15 PM
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The Harbor Freight shear is still tempting but does anyone know the scoop on the replacement blades which do not seem to be available anymore?

On the reviews one guy said he tempered his blades in the oven by heating them to 500 degrees then letting them cool slowly (see pic). I am not sure if I buy that!
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2018, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb View Post
The Harbor Freight shear is still tempting but does anyone know the scoop on the replacement blades which do not seem to be available anymore?

On the reviews one guy said he tempered his blades in the oven by heating them to 500 degrees then letting them cool slowly (see pic). I am not sure if I buy that!
From what I've been able to google, HF has indeed closed out & sold all of the replacement blades in 2011 (for $9.95! ) and discontinued them.
However, I wouldn't be afraid to try a new one because of:

a. the warranty. You can take it back, at least to my local store, for any reason or if the blades chip within the warranty period. In fact, when I asked for replacement blades Glen wanted to replace the whole thing.
b. I wouldn't be afraid to regrind the chipped edges or to re-temper them, though I might follow a different procedure.
c. I believe that the only reason they discontinued the replacements is that they started using decent blades from the factory.
d. they appear to have copied the Beverly B-1, blades & all. They are pricey at $79.95 but I would bet on them working.
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  #25  
Old 01-26-2018, 10:42 PM
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Wolf, I was cautioning about slowing the drill while using a drill mounted nibbler. What you have is a drill mounted shear and appears to be much more stout than my nibbler. I may look into your version.
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  #26  
Old 01-27-2018, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barn Owl View Post
Wolf, I was cautioning about slowing the drill while using a drill mounted nibbler. What you have is a drill mounted shear and appears to be much more stout than my nibbler. I may look into your version.
Might be a slight misunderstanding.

as i don't have one yet, But am ordering one just to try and hope it is lighter than my electric shears as that would be two pluses for it if it is stout and light.

I believe it is more of a shear attachment, I thought it looked pretty stout
so i figured I'm ordering one and see its around 50 bucks and if it works good ill be happy with it....

If it don't work well then its just another one to add to the collection of tools that see very little time out of the drawer of forgotten tools that's a place like the Christmas cartoon for misfit toy's
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2018, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb View Post
The Harbor Freight shear is still tempting but does anyone know the scoop on the replacement blades which do not seem to be available anymore?

On the reviews one guy said he tempered his blades in the oven by heating them to 500 degrees then letting them cool slowly (see pic). I am not sure if I buy that!
well i will say this i have abused mine by cutting much thicker metal flat bar than it is intended for with no issues as of yet no chipping or dulling.

as for the other guy tempering the cutting blades in an oven i don't know if i buy that either, I would think that to temper them he would of needed to have treated them like someone who does forging but that is a answer that the forging experts on here would have to answer, If anything he more likely harmed the temper on them......but again i don't know if that would of helped or hut the blades...

But I do think the eastwood may be the better buy, It has a deeper throat and that alone is worth the looksee.

as for HF stuff.... like cutter said they did discontinue them... along with some other replacement parts i feel they prolly aut not to of..... luckly I and can buy from the manufactures directly.... you would prolly be surprised as to the amount of stuff made abroad and assembled and or redressed here in the states for the big name items.

any way if it is replacement blades your concerned about the eastwood surely is the better choice.
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  #28  
Old 01-31-2018, 01:34 PM
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well got the nibbler a few days ago. and after cutting about two inches into the metal, it stopped cutting. going back and forth with the seller with questions and answers. these are the parameters for the nibbler,
Hello there,
Thks for your message my dear friend.
Two inches of metal,is it the length or thickness?
Here is the permissible cutting thickness in the following hope i can help you:
Permissible cutting thickness:
Common iron plate: 1.8mm.
Stainless steel plate: 1.2mm.
Copper, aluminum plate: 2mm.
Plastic plywood car: 2mm.
so I used it on mild steel which measured 1.5mm
I'm no expert on metallurgy, but is mild steel tougher than iron?
anyway, between my angle grinder, and my Dremel multi tool, was able to cut out the silhouette pretty close. I guess sometimes patience helps instead of trying to rush things. Thanks

Last edited by biker55; 01-31-2018 at 01:41 PM. Reason: left something out
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  #29  
Old 01-31-2018, 06:00 PM
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Looking at the English I’d guess the seller does not use english as a first language and “iron” is a simple mistake for mild steel. Added to the fact we no longer make iron sheet since the invention of the bessemer converter made steel production feasible.
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  #30  
Old 01-31-2018, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biker55 View Post
well got the nibbler a few days ago. and after cutting about two inches into the metal, it stopped cutting. going back and forth with the seller with questions and answers. these are the parameters for the nibbler,
Hello there,
Thks for your message my dear friend.
Two inches of metal,is it the length or thickness?
Here is the permissible cutting thickness in the following hope i can help you:
Permissible cutting thickness:
Common iron plate: 1.8mm.
Stainless steel plate: 1.2mm.
Copper, aluminum plate: 2mm.
Plastic plywood car: 2mm.
so I used it on mild steel which measured 1.5mm
I'm no expert on metallurgy, but is mild steel tougher than iron?
anyway, between my angle grinder, and my Dremel multi tool, was able to cut out the silhouette pretty close. I guess sometimes patience helps instead of trying to rush things. Thanks
I think your better off with the electric shears or throat shear not nibblers
nibblers are good for light sheet metal unless you get a quality nibbler with the cutting capacity for thicker sheet metal
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