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  #81  
Old 02-06-2022, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
What brand is the printer? You can buy an Ender-3 for $100 w/coupon at their retail stores. LINK Normally $200 but they WILL put you on their mailing/texting list...

Sons is a Anet A8 Plus. It was a complete put together from parts. I think he bought it from cheap Chinese website. It was a nice father son time putting it together.

I looked at that deal you linked to. I almost jumped at it, so then I have my own printer, but that looks to be only a coupon that you have to walk into their store and pick up in person. Unfortunately, only one store in Mi, in Detroit area, 5 hours away. I guess I would be better off with paying an extra 100-150 to have one shipped to my door. Now if I had another reason to go to Detroit, then maybe I would get it. But I like to stay as far away as I can from that area of Mi.

I’m still researching where I can get the filament for the best price. My son keeps going to the Chinese sites, which might be cheap for smaller items on shipping, but get expensive quickly for larger items. At that point, I’m inclined to try shopping at a local store first, and try to keep some of my money local. But, if no stores carry it, then I will resort to online ordering.


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  #82  
Old 02-07-2022, 11:29 AM
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Message Bubba on here. He has a printer and has made several things with it.
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  #83  
Old 03-01-2022, 10:30 PM
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Had a cylinder rod that needed to be made. But it needed a 1/2” hole in the center of it for a probe sensor that relays info to the tractor computer as to how far the cylinder is extended. Some of these newer machines need this info I guess.

Anyways, the 40mm chrome rod is 61” long. Normally in the past, we sent these jobs out to a place that specializes in deep drilling. I wanted to tackle it and keep it in-house this time. Especially after I heard the price, and the 5 week time it was going to take before we would get it back.

I took a piece of 1/4” Id by 3/8” Od tube, 4’ long and tapped a 5/16”-24 thread in both ends. One end I screwed in a set screw to seal off that end.

I took a regular 1/2” drill bit, and sharpened it on my TRD drill grinder to make sure the flutes were as sharp and even as possible, so hopefully the hole would stay in the center of the rod.

Then I threaded the shank of the drill bit 5/16-24, to screw into the 4’ tube. Now I had a 4’ long drill bit. I also drilled a 1/8” hole in both ends to run coolant into the drilled hole.

I started the hole with a regular drill bit, then drilled in 16” with a long bit we already had. Then I switched to the 4’ long bit. I had a few issues, but got it worked out.

After I ground the flutes to the end of the drill, I was able to drill in about 3/8” of an inch before having to pull the drill out to clean out the chips. I did set up a bigger support tube in the steady rest to slightly support the extended drill bit.

Unfortunately, the bit did wander a bit, but I was able to get the drill bit all the way thru. I am enlarging one half of the hole to 9/16” so there will be no lip to catch the probe in use.

I also had made a bar mounted to the cross slide to lock the tailstock to the carriage, that way I could use the quick traverse to move the tailstock in and out.

The hole didn’t end up as good as I wanted, but it will be functional. And I did bring a new technique to our shop.

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  #84  
Old 03-01-2022, 11:12 PM
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Nice job! Did you have the outboard end of the rod supported? If it was out of concentricity that could throw the hole off a little.


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  #85  
Old 03-02-2022, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
Nice job! Did you have the outboard end of the rod supported? If it was out of concentricity that could throw the hole off a little.


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I did have it supported about 5” from chrome rod. Since my extension rod was 3/8”, and the drill bit was 1/2”, I had to keep the steady rest with the ext. rod bushing back so the drill bit could clear all the chips when it passed under the air flow cooler I had set up.

I had just used a piece of 1/2” ID tube to support the 3/8” tube. I had it raised up to help keep the drill end up enough so it would be able to start into the hole when pushed in, but it had too much clearance I think.

One thing I did like about the setup was that if I accidentally feed it too hard, I would see the rod deflect from the center of the hole, and had visual feedback to back off of feed pressure.
I was using feedback from my hands turning the tailstock hand wheel, sight of the drill rod, and watching the digital indicator that I set up to know how far I was drilling in each “peck” and listening for the drilling squeak letting me know that I had too many chips packed in the flutes, and in danger of locking the bit up.

I will try to refine this process more. Knowing that it can be done in house, now will allow me that process. It is a lot of cranking on the carriage, but it makes it a lot easier than pushing the tailstock back and forth. I’m always trying new / different things that the previous machinists would not do, because of the work envolved either physically or mentally. They would rather have the boss send it out to another shop that could do it.

Now with that said, just because I can do it, does not mean I will get to do it on every future job. Unless I can figure out why it drilled off
Center, and a way to keep it on center, whether it’s needing a longer bit to keep it more true in the bore, or what, it will depend on the time it takes me to do it vs the actual cost of sending it out and if we can wait the turn around time.

Before, the boss had the impression that we could not do it in our shop because we didn’t have the right equipment. I managed to do it with basic tools that I modified without asking to buy special new tools. I think he will be open to maybe buying a Gun drill bit now, knowing that I can do it, if needed on the equipment we have.

Part of the fun of this job for me, is the freedom I do have sometimes to come up with different solutions to get various jobs done. Always looking for ways/ ideas to make the work easier and quicker. Sometimes they don’t always work, but they are usually open to trying something. I also usually wait to build a new prototype idea until I have had three to four jobs where “I wish I had that “ to prove that it probably would be a worthwhile time investment. I’ve made a lot of one time only tools that never seemed to get used again, and then when I come across them, I think what a waste of time that was.


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  #86  
Old 03-23-2022, 07:16 PM
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Well, I had a fail last week. I tried another deep drill operation. 1” diameter Chrome Cylinder rod. 68” long, needed a 9/16” diameter hoke 51” deep.

We had sent this one out to our current deep drill supply business, and when they got around to it after 4 weeks, they called and said they can only go 32” per end, so that would have left 4” in the middle. In hind sight, we should have had them do that.

But, shop foreman said send the rods back, and we would figure out something else. I think we had $300 freight charges wrapped up in now.

Anyways, I made a new drill adapter from 1/2” by 1/16” wall tube, and threaded the end of a carbide die drill that we had to fit. I started drilling, and since I was using a 72” long rod, I kept pressure light. Due to the length of the carbide drill bit, coolant was not getting to the tip and the bit was really hot each time I pulled it out to clear the chips from the flutes.

So I made the decision to switch to a 9/16” silver and demming drill bit. I put a fresh grind on it, and the center flutes seemed off a bit. But I went ahead and drilled anyways. The regular drill bit took much less force too. And the bit was cool to the touch when clearing the chips.

But, the heat was traveling up the rod though. And the drill bit started going off center. I could not tell it, and managed to drill 51” deep. But the other machinist notice that the rod seemed bent, that was hanging out the headstock end of the lathe. I did have it supported by a roller stand.

The rod bent and had about 1/2” runout when rolled on rollers in the center.

After boss called and gave customer the bad news, he said the only thing we can do is order a replacement rod from the manufacturer, and it will be about 5-6 more weeks, at a cost of about $1500.

I gave it a good shot, but it didn’t work this time. We cut the rod up to see what happened. The drill started going off center, and was about 3/32” from the edge at 51” deep. If I had to only go 30”, it probably would have been fine. But, not for this rod.
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  #87  
Old 03-23-2022, 07:54 PM
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I used hollow bar on several machine to move the grease point to a more favorable position . Is it possible that someone is making hollow rod for cyl ? May have to plug or reduce diameter as required .
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  #88  
Old 03-23-2022, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midmosandblasting View Post
I used hollow bar on several machine to move the grease point to a more favorable position . Is it possible that someone is making hollow rod for cyl ? May have to plug or reduce diameter as required .

Usually we can get bigger sizes. But boss said he didn’t think we can get it this small. I would assume he checked, but that’s not my job. My job is to make parts, hopefully cheaper than we can buy them. But sometimes we will buy premade parts, that will work for us and especially if it a fraction of the cost for us to do it. But, the last year, some supplies are getting scarce. Sometimes they’ve been in stock, sometimes it says a month or two out, so then we have to go to plan b, or c.


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  #89  
Old 07-21-2022, 09:31 PM
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Had a bit of free time today finally at work, so after cleaning the cross slide screw on my lathe, decided to make a better nut for the cross slide number dial. It likes to loosen up and then I do not realize it and sometimes crash the tool sometimes, usually when threading. Most of the time I do use the DRO, but I usually start with the manual dial.

So I started by turning and knurled a piece of bronze. Then I trepanned a oring slot in the end, thinking an oring will help keep it locked tight. It seems to be better than the original one, and the wider thumb nut is easier to tighten.
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  #90  
Old 07-23-2022, 10:19 PM
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Looks pretty slick.
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