Bearing help

[OldRedFord]

Decided to check one of the wheel bearings on the sawmill carriage. Packed full of grease that was almost rubber. Each wheel.seems to have one outer race with two taper bearings.

Here's a short video of the outer race in the one wheel I pulled off. All the wheels seem to have a fair amount of slop.

I googled the bearing Timken 14136A but so far all I see are bearings with individual outer races and not a one piece setup like it appears I have. At the moment I don't have access to a press to push out the race.

The bearings are a interesting design and have a lip.

https://youtube.com/shorts/zPa8OhiBiVE?feature=share

[digr]

Run a weld bead around the inside of the race and it will fall out

[digr]

Bearing Here

[Whitetrash]

Originally Posted by digr

Run a weld bead around the inside of the race and it will fall out

Yup +1

[greywynd]

Well, after it cools off again it will fall out.


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[MotorDoctor]

Just don't weld through the bearing race into the other metal. Might make it a little harder to get out

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by OldRedFord

I googled the bearing Timken 14136A but so far all I see are bearings with individual outer races and not a one piece setup like it appears I have. At the moment I don't have access to a press to push out the race.

First, your outer races, note I used plural not singular, you have 2 races, not
a single race, so your wrong.

Second, while the welding method above will work, I would just support the
pulley/wheel on some wood blocks and use a drift to tap the 2 outer races
out of the pulley. What you think is a worn area is just and inconsistency in
the casting.

Third, the welding method is best done with a TIG welder, just run a bead
around the inside of the race, no filler metal is needed. It works by heating
the race up while it is constrained in the pulley, that cause the races to
expand in the direction of the shaft that would be there, because it cannot
expend in the radial direction, then as it cools it contracts in the radial
direction, and loosens in the bore. Principle of constrained expansion and
unconstrained contraction.

[LKeithR]

Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder

...First, your outer races, note I used plural not singular, you have 2 races, not a single race, so your wrong...

I'm not sure what Ron is referring to here. The picture that was posted shows a single race (or cup) and a single bearing (or cone). Unlike ball bearings or roller bearings which are generally sold as a unit, tapered roller bearings are normally sold as separate pieces. You can usually mix and match to some extent to make different inner and outer diameter combinations and also to vary the total width of the assembly.

To support a hub or pulley on a shaft you need at least two bearing assemblies--a good example is a wheel hub on a trailer axle. The hub doesn't run true till both inner and outer bearings are properly seated in their respective races.

...Third, the welding method is best done with a TIG welder, just run a bead around the inside of the race, no filler metal is needed...

Tig works great and gives you better control if you're removing a small race but if you're trying to get an 8" or 10" cup out of a housing it's a lot faster to run a bead with mig or stick. Tig would take a lot longer...

[Shade Tree Welder]

Originally Posted by LKeithR

I'm not sure what Ron is referring to here.

Watch the video.

[LKeithR]

Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder

Watch the video.

Yeah, I never looked at the video, just the picture. The video shows that there are two complete assemblies (cup and cone) required to mount the hub. The picture just shows the inner part of one assembly...