Bushhog blade hub repair....or not

[LW Hiway]

This might work.

Jim, that looks like a 'right nice' hunk of spline. Priced lower than what I'd have expected. If it fits, looks to be a suitable fix.

I'd have to agree with the best Nylock nuttage you can find with the added use of locktite and any Bama Magic you can add to that assembly.

FWIW, down here in Acadia and Vermillion parish, we tend to not jump stumps or run down Dillo's for sport.

For those that do, I make a fair amount of money repairing the shredders and beating edges back to their blades. It's a win win for me. lol

BTW, when was you last trip down this way?

[SmokinDodge]

Over time the nylon locking nuts give up as well. Had one a while back I could thread off with my fingers. About the only locking nut that locks is the deformed nut, the one with the three dimples in the top that grab some thread and won't let go.

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[Scotts]

Another thing the castle nut may do is help clean the threads up as it is removed.

Hub city has a lot of the ag repair parts.

Scott

[Ironman]

If you can...
Bore out the old hub to whatever suits you, and machine the new hub to fit. Press the hub in and weld it both ends. Alignment issues will be dealt with when setting up to bore it.

[FabberMcGee]

A roll pin rather than a cotter pin would be very strong and leave nothing hanging out in space.

[LW Hiway]

Slim has this project advanced any since the 6th?

[SlimJim]

Hiway, I have been and am on the road so it is on the back burner util next friday. Right now it just got rained on for the 35th straight day. Never seen it do this in Alabama this time of year. We are lucky to get four days of rain in the summer. The wife says neighbor is building a big wood structure down the road. It is starting to make since now. I told her if she starts seeing strange animals pairing up around that big wood structure to call me so I can come home and save my dogs and my tools. Besides, I always wanted to kill one of those cape buffalo and a pair of rhino horns could build me a new shop with what that stuff goes for now days. Does flood insurance cover a Noah type flood?

So anyway, the bushhog update. This site is unreal for the information you can get. Somebody on here knows somebody that works at every company in the US, Canada, B.C., New Zealand, Louisiana, and several other countries. So anyway #2, someone on this site sent me some information that helped a ton. I thought that the flat bar had been bored out so that they could press the hub through it and then weld it but that was wrong. They weld the hub on it and bore through both the hub and flat bar a and the splines are broached through both of them as well. Its also tapered and everything is balanced. Even the welds have to be even on all sides. So all I lack now is the machine to broach with, the hub, the skill to accomplish the tight tolerances, and patience. I know a guy that knows a guy that has patience, but the rest is going to be a problem.

Ideas?

[LW Hiway]

Does flood insurance cover a Noah type flood?

It will be years after this type flood that anyone will even utter 'flood insurance'. Or anything else for that matter.

There are machine shops that will make your f/b and weld a piece of round stock, bore and cut splines through it all as needed, but you'll be getting close to the money you don't want to spend on a new one.

Personally, I'd just buy the hub/spline, weld it, balance the assy as needed and run with it. Where is the taper? Tween the gear box and flatplate? Or is the spline hub tapered as well? You might have already mentioned this and I'll look back to see.

Jef

[SmokinDodge]

Usually the taper is in the splines.


I really don't know how balanced this assembly has to be. Care needs to be taken to have everything centered and true but damn most bush hogs I've ever been around have eaten as many rocks as they have grass. This leaves large chunks out if the blades and I'm sure they aren't even.

I really like Gerry's bore and bushing plan. It shouldn't cost too much and it would keep everything centered very nicely.

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[SlimJim]

Originally Posted by SmokinDodge

Usually the taper is in the splines.


I really don't know how balanced this assembly has to be. Care needs to be taken to have everything centered and true but damn most bush hogs I've ever been around have eaten as many rocks as they have grass. This leaves large chunks out if the blades and I'm sure they aren't even.

I really like Gerry's bore and bushing plan. It shouldn't cost too much and it would keep everything centered very nicely.

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The taper is in the spline.

You are right about the rocks and balance. I noticed the other day they welded a hunk of metal on one side to balance it. I can do the same if need be. I can balance it.

Gerrys bore-ing plan did sound the best, no pun intended. But now given the taper, and that the bar had spines in it, once i press the hub in it will throw off the height alignment. I really need a hub that is one and a half times the height of the one that's on there. Then i could just bore and press and weld.
If i just cut off the old and weld on the new it will put the best thread at the worst part of the shaft, where the taper goes down to smooth. If that makes any since.