Bushhog blade hub repair....or not

[SlimJim]

I have a model 287 Bushhog brush cutter which is there medium duty 7 footer. Bushhog uses a fairy heavy duty cotter pin to make sure that nut does not back off on the stump jumper blade housing. My cotter pin broke and the nut backed off enough to shred the gear teeth on the blade hub. I tightened the nut down and put another cotter pin on it and it got me by for another two years. Finally last weekend it started slipping again and now its time to fix it. I am not about to pay the 575 bucks bushhog wants for the blade housing so i am up for suggestions. Do I cut off the blade hub and weld another on (If I can find one)? Do I weld enough teeth back in the hub to make it catch again? Or do I put a nut on it and crank it down tight, back the nut off out of the way, and then weld the blade hub to the shaft? I know I not want to get that shaft too hot.... Suggestions? Anybody been here before?

[milomilo]

The male splined looks OK to reuse. I'd just get another female splined hub and weld it on. You might find at a tractor supply place. Get a stainless cotter pin or a nylon style lock nut next time

[nuf345]

In NZ you can buy bare splined hubs .I used one when I built my Slasher
( Brush Hog ) Can't remember from which company .USA is a much bigger market someone must have them there

[LKeithR]

Try looking here...Hub City

[SmokinDodge]

The shaft coming out of the gear box isn't ruined yet so I would try hard to prevent any further damage to it. You can weld to the shaft but it is hardened and the weld will just fracture taking a tiny bit of the shaft with it. If you think the hub is high price the shaft!!!!

Best bet is procure a new hub and weld in.

Sent from my iPhone using SFT

[JWS]

The first picture makes me think the shaft is fine. The third picture makes me think the hub is worn smooth. The last picture makes everything look opposite! Try some different sources on hubs. Even a good NAPA or TSC/Rural King/good farmstore might have a hub to replace yours. Take your old one with you (it is easier to carry than the bushhog!)

[LW Hiway]

Slim, do you have access to the machine to bore/cut the old out clean enough and have the ability to align the new in it's place?

[SlimJim]

Originally Posted by milomilo

The male splined looks OK to reuse. I'd just get another female splined hub and weld it on. You might find at a tractor supply place. Get a stainless cotter pin or a nylon style lock nut next time

Would a stainless not break quicker? Why do you think they stay away from nylon style lock nuts when they build them? Could be the expense, or maybe planned obsolescence. I know one thing. Putting a cotter pin on something spinning at 500 rpm that is in constant contact with sticks, limbs, armadillos, small trees etc is not a good idea. It is actually on my mental list if things to check before operation. But I have loaned it out (big mistake) and I also could have missed it when I was in a hurry doing my pre-inspection and lube.

Originally Posted by LKeithR

Try looking here...Hub City

Hub city, you have to love the ability to find things now days.

Originally Posted by SmokinDodge

The shaft coming out of the gear box isn't ruined yet so I would try hard to prevent any further damage to it. You can weld to the shaft but it is hardened and the weld will just fracture taking a tiny bit of the shaft with it. If you think the hub is high price the shaft!!!!

Best bet is procure a new hub and weld in.

Sent from my iPhone using SFT

That is what I was thinking. That shaft is very hard and that worried me. That was one of those questions you know the answer too but you need a few others to tell you not to because it would be so easy to do.

Originally Posted by JWS

The first picture makes me think the shaft is fine. The third picture makes me think the hub is worn smooth. The last picture makes everything look opposite! Try some different sources on hubs. Even a good NAPA or TSC/Rural King/good farmstore might have a hub to replace yours. Take your old one with you (it is easier to carry than the bushhog!)

The more pictures I took the worse it got. I am going to take a couple more today of just the pan. Getting the hub out will be a chore.

Originally Posted by LW Hiway

Slim, do you have access to the machine to bore/cut the old out clean enough and have the ability to align the new in it's place?

Machine yes, ability...... I don't know. I need Sberry. He is good at these type repairs. It is going to have to be aligned to a spec that I don't even know and quite possibly may not be able to hold. But I am not paying 550 bucks for a new one. That is only thing I am 100% sure of at this point. Thanks for all the replies.

[SlimJim]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Tooth-Bla...item416cfec725

This might work.

[milomilo]

Stainless is a lot tougher than mild steel so the pin would be harder to break. However, I would still go with the nylon locking nut. More expensive than a castellated nut but has nothing sticking out to hit on rocks, etc. Use some anti seize on the threads during reassembly. Looks like you found the hub. Alignment for welding is critical.