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Old 06-10-2013, 02:03 PM
mking7 mking7 is offline
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Default Pipe question

I bought a couple pieces of 24" pipe to build BBQ pits with. After getting ready to mount end caps I realized out of round it was. How close to round is pipe this size usually? These are almost an inch out.

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Old 06-10-2013, 02:03 PM
mking7 mking7 is offline
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I bought a couple pieces of 24" pipe to build BBQ pits with. After getting ready to mount end caps I realized how out of round it was. How close to round is pipe this size usually? These are almost an inch out.

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Old 06-10-2013, 02:17 PM
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Hmmm. what kind of pipe? Is it rolled and welded or is it regular steel pipe.
If it is rolled and welded it can vary quite a bit.
The OD of 24" steel pipe should be 24.000", 14" and large the nominal diameter is the OD of the pipe.
24" Schedule 10 pipe should have an ID of 23.500" with #/' of 63.41lbs.
" " Schedule STD 20 should have an ID of 23.375" with #/' of 94.62lbs.
My chart goes up to Schedule 160 with an ID of 19.312" with a weight per foot of 542.13 pounds.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mking7 View Post
I bought a couple pieces of 24" pipe to build BBQ pits with. After getting ready to mount end caps I realized out of round it was. How close to round is pipe this size usually? These are almost an inch out.

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If you're buying plain end pipe, you can expect significant squashing, especially if you're buying off cuts or scrap.

Large pipe is very weak in collapse. Simply tying it down tight enough to keep it on a flat bed truck or highboy for transport can result in significant distortion or out-of-round.

If the end caps match for size, they can be tacked on where they meet and forced into alignment where they don't.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:09 PM
mking7 mking7 is offline
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It's rolled and welded I suppose since it has a seam. I don't know much about pipe. Not sure how to make my ends work. Maybe a portapower?

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Old 06-10-2013, 05:42 PM
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Bottle jack usually will work.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:01 PM
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What are you using ends ?

If you are torch cutting flat plate, cut or grind a little bevel (15-20 degree) from one side and hammer into place. Maby tack on a couple flat bar stops to keep it from going too deep while tacking...

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Old 06-10-2013, 07:27 PM
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Usually rolled and welded will be thin gauge maybe up to 11ga. Schedule 10 24" has a wall thickness of 0.250"
To take the egg out a portapower of bottle jack will work, once you have it round again tack in a couple pieces of 1" angle iron to hold the new shape. If you can position them so they are out of the way for welding in the ends, cutting your openings and the rest of the construction of the pit. Then once all the work is done cut them out. Pipe has internal stresses that will make it spring open some when cut, so consider that when planning your pit.
And do like Red says about beveling the edges of the pipe and the end.
Dan.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:02 PM
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Trace it?
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:22 AM
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Unless it is VERY thick pipe, all that would be required would be a simple screw jack. Line up a spot, put on a 1" tack move 6" around the circumference, and tack on a simple screw jack, pull the edges into alignment, tack 1", repeat, lather, rinse, lather, rinse, repeat. The attached image is of the one I made used on flat stock. Just remember to tack it to the pipe on the same side as the screw. after the tack is made, just whack the back to break the tack. Cheap, easy, and accurate.

Unless you have seamless pipe (doubtful in large diameters), the tube will have been formed from flat stock somehow and then welded somehow.

Rolling/drawing around a mandrel is common in pipe to 14" before Electric Resistance Welding (ERW). Some pipe is normalized after welding, most not. This process leads to residual stresses that spring the pipe open when cut along the length.

For pipe larger than 14" the pipe is often rolled in a spiral from a roll of flat stock and then welded by submerged arc. The spiral rolling leads to some funky stresses and the pipe can do unexpected things when cut open.
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