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Old 05-16-2019, 05:41 PM
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Default Oh What fun it is... LS big block valve spring change engine in car

Well As I get older I get slower and use to do this sort of work many years ago with no problems... And seems it use to only took 2 -3 hours to get all of them done.

Now one rear cylinder took me 5 hours to do had issues with it not compressing the cylinder to hold the valve up. yeah, I know you can rotate the cylinder to help hold up the valve but in my opinion, it's just risky either way but cam change to custom cut .756 lift which means new valve springs have to be changed...

Not sure why this is being such a problem but valves don't want to stay seated and changing the shims and guide seals are being kind of tricky so the valve does not get knocked back down

Oh, this is sucking already.... but like with everything else I won't let it beat me...

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Old 05-16-2019, 07:40 PM
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What are you doing to keep/hold the valve from dropping down the hole?


RED
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:28 PM
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Do you use air to keep the valve closed?
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Old 05-16-2019, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RED caddy View Post
What are you doing to keep/hold the valve from dropping down the hole?


RED
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Do you use air to keep the valve closed?
Yes, I Use a modified compression tester fitting remove the spark plug install the compression test fitting connect 60-90 psi from the compressor...
got to be sure the tires are blocked and E-brake is on, Or, it might just run you over if it's a manual trans ones with automatics you have to watch the fan blade an make sure nothing can get caught in it as motor will sometimes turn over...

If it does that two things are happening one you are using way to much air pressure or the engine is low compression due to being intended low compression built or its got a shit tone of miles and is about wore...

Also, remember to tap the top of the valve spring on the one you are working on to loosen the retainer clips another wise valve will stick and open and from there unintended shit can happen... all it takes is slight leakage around the valve to lose the compression that holds the valve in place to allow you to do this procedure...

And one other suggestion LOL! try not to forget to put the guide seals and have it all back together and look over you tool roller and see two of them sitting there and then wonder which cylinder didn't get theirs

Kind of wishing these heads were 202's or 194's much easier to change valve springs this way the special tool for the LS heads is a great tool but takes a little set up per each set of springs. but you trade in the small amount of set up for... Already preloaded lifters and just retorque the rockers as where the older v8 engines you would still have to run back through the valves and readjust them all...

So you give a little and ya get a little in the way things are done now...but I still like working on old school gassers... but in some ways, the new tech stuff is easier.

But still, much rather be doing this on the bench sOooo Much easier.

But I think ill be able to get it fired up just about the time the neighbors first start to think about hitting that snooze button around that time just before having to really think about getting up for work...

But I'd like to think I have better manors than that and I'm pretty sure my wife would come out and wring my neck for it too so Nah I'll finish up and get some rest and then worry about lighting the engine off in the after noon.
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Last edited by MetalWolf; 05-16-2019 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 05-17-2019, 12:06 AM
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So I have never touched an LS.....but surely you could do both heads in 5 hrs? Why not pull the heads if it’s being difficult?

I used to be able to have a LB7 duramax out of a truck in 2.5 hours. I didn’t care for in chassis work much.
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Old 05-17-2019, 01:26 AM
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So I have never touched an LS.....but surely you could do both heads in 5 hrs? Why not pull the heads if it’s being difficult?

I used to be able to have a LB7 duramax out of a truck in 2.5 hours. I didn’t care for in chassis work much.
The customer does not want the heads pulled to do it... which I suggested as doing the springs on the bench would literally take an hour... So I charge accordingly... to the requested job

So yeah its kind of a PITA, But could be too, That I'm just getting old and just complain too much

It's strange I use to really enjoy doing this stuff but now seems I just don't enjoy doing much of anything anymore...
Just getting to where the energy to do it and the pain that comes with it is sometimes not worth the effort.

pulling an engine for me doing it by my self, Is well, not easy.
now if I had a lift in the shop I could manage to get much more done without wearing my self down and would not have to get help to get off the floor after I've been under one for a little bit...

I have a few other things soon to be done to it but its a one at a time thing for him deciding what to do to it next...
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Last edited by MetalWolf; 05-17-2019 at 04:27 AM.
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Old 05-17-2019, 04:50 AM
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So that you don’t have to sweat dropping a valve soo much you can put #1 at TDC. change springs on 1 & 6, rotate 90*, 8 & 5, rotate 90*, 7 & 4, rotate 90*, 3 & 2
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:48 AM
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Trombone Pete, Norm and I, have done that on an Oliver tractor motor, using a crankshaft socket, a chunk of nylon rope. Start to bring the cylinder up on compression, push the nylon rope into the cylinder, one person holding the piston tight to the rope holding the valve closed, you compressed the spring and do what is necessary change the spring, change the valve seal) then reverse the order.
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:53 AM
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Make sure you have a big enough knot in the end of the rope to keep it from going all the way into the cylinder. A two foot piece of clothesline works well.
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro Zach View Post
So that you don’t have to sweat dropping a valve soo much you can put #1 at TDC. change springs on 1 & 6, rotate 90*, 8 & 5, rotate 90*, 7 & 4, rotate 90*, 3 & 2
Yeah, That's what I'm doing... Just been a while since I've had to do an in the car change of springs... and I get a bit stiff and grumpy so I complain a bit.

was as well trying to make sort of a point was for anyone needing to do such a job some of the what to watch out for... which I should of got more specific with this is also allowing the piston to support the valve if oo much air is used it will cause rotation of the engine so that alone can be a disaster...

I still need to button it up and install a new WWR and pump where it was taken out for an Airbox mod.

Then in a month or two not sure when, but do the supercharger install
but so not sure if it will be the stage 3 SS supercharger or rail injected tuneable tunnel ram.

Oh, the one thing that does suck is doing it this way is the old springs are the Lunati spring kit using the titanium keepers and big fat hands, oil, and non-magnetic tiny keepers are aghast to hold on to but it the nature of the beast right...
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Last edited by MetalWolf; 05-17-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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