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![]() http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85071.aspx Features and Benefits Three torque wrenches in one (25-250 ft lbs, 300-3000 in lbs, 33.9-339 Nm) provides superior versatility No need for mechanical recalibration which provides savings to the user Measures the maximum torque required to REMOVE an already installed fastener “Breakaway Torque.” Ideal when service manuals are not available or when working on 3rd party installed aftermarket parts. The torque required to break free a fastener can then be applied as the torque value when reinstalling. Excellent for restoration work or service on custom built vehicles. The GearWrench Electronic Torque Wrench 1/2 in. drive has the ability to replace three torque wrenches. 25-250 ft lbs, 300-3000 in lbs, 33.9-339 Nm. No mechanical recalibration needed, which means savings to the user. 4 simple buttons- Power On/Off, Torque Target Up & Down, and Convert Units (ft/lbs, in/lbs, and Nm). Buzzer with Red, Yellow, and Green lights to alert when target torque is being reached. LCD screen with backlight for easy reading of torque values enclosed in a shock resistant housing. Two questions: 1-Does anyone have any experience with this? 2-When they say, "Measures the maximum torque required to REMOVE an already installed fastener “Breakaway Torque."....I never considered this before and have no idea...IF it does measure (accurately) the torque required to remove a fastener, then does that equal the torque the fastener was originally required to be torqued to, or not? Just wondering. Thanks for any help
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#2
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I have that wrench. For what I paid, its pretty nice, I paid about 1/2 of what youre showing. Recently, its been powering down all on its own, right after it powers on, as in, its taking a shit. Had it maybe 3 years.
Not sure where the breakaway torque is used. It most have some application, but I dont know what it is. |
#3
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I wouldn't bet that the "breakaway torque" is of much value, other than that of curiosity. If the value is used to re-torque a fastener, I doubt that the wrench considers the galling, dry torque, or use of loctite, which may have affected the breakaway value. But, I'll be interested in what a mechanical engineer might have to say on the issue.
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#4
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I worked on an assembly line and we had to "torque mark" every fastener, draw a straight line across the top down the side and mark the part fastened to with a sharpie. As was said before we found the break away torque was far less than the tightening torque.
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#5
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I've used all kinds if torque devices over the years. The electric ones are ok if you like futzing with batteries. I'd recommend pulling the batteries out before putting it away.
Sent from my ipotato
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#6
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The only time I've ever needed a torque wrench to work in reverse is when using a torque multiplier. The input is in the reverse direction of the output.
I think the idea of " break away" torque is BS. Sent from my iPhone using SFT
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#7
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Id have to agree that the break away torque, in the real world, is nothing close to the tightening torque, that is, if you are trying to get a number to re-torque a fastener too. Not to mention, you dont know who or what put it together last, or what its been through. Thats opinion is from a lay person, not an engineer, and just a personal observation, nothing more.
Being that mine is in the stages of taking a dump ( I would not recommend the purchase), Id put my money in a CDI or S/O mechanical unit, and buy a used one, if the budget can not choke down the cost of new. As far as that goes, I used a Craftsman 1/2" clicker T/W for probably 5 years when I wrenched for a living before I bought my first S/O. I think Ive got at least 6 units now (dials, clickers, and digital, no beams), 2 are electronic, both gearwrench and both have issues, and I would not buy them again. |
#8
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A trucker neighbor has a snap-on digital and has used it for 10 years with no issues. The only feature I liked was a beep when set torque was reached. A Clicker type does the same thing and for what he paid for it, you could buy 3 good clicker types. Breakaway torque means nothing, as it is affected by too many things to be of any value.
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Chris One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors. Plato LET'S GO BRANDON!!!! B biggest I idot D democrats E ever N nominated |
#9
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The break away torque description isn't correct. There's a different use for it.
For instance when setting up the pre-load on a pinon to ring gear, the manufacturer sometimes calls for a break away torque. They put a max-min spec that it takes to roll the pinion, rolls too easy add a shim, rolls too hard remove a shim. You need to read the torque when the pinion moves, this torque wrench will capture that amount.
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"Government is not the solution, it is the problem!" RIP Ronnie,,, |
#10
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I greatly appreciate the replies. My father had foot surgery and a subsequent serious infection to deal with. The internet was not such an immediate concern. He is doing better, today, for a change.
I had no idea about "break away torque" was, before this, but it seems to enigmatic in both determining and usefulness. So, thanks for that help in understanding. I had a patient mention that CDI, which is a Snap-on industrial brand, as mentioned here. He laughed and said they are great, but you pay for great. Now, I think I may be back to looking for MECHANICAL. It seems like almost everyone, sooner or later has a problem with the electronic. Be nice to have a lifetime guarantee that is easy to lay claim to. I guess I will turn to a good mechanical and be willing to pay more, but in the long-run have one that will give a true result, and have to remember to return it to zero, after using. Thanks again. Mechanical search......possibly a CDI ?
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