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Old 04-18-2006, 01:38 PM
buzzard buzzard is offline
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Default Grouser, Grouser

Hi Guys,

First let me say I've been a lurker for a while and have enjoyed the banter that takes place here and have even learned a few things here too. So, thanks for that. Now I have a question that maybe some of you with heavy equipment welding experience could help me out with on some hints, helps, or tricks.

I talked to a guy that has a tracked machine of some kind. Not really sure if he even mentioned if it was a dozer, loader or what, as we were both headed in different directions at the time and just spoke in passing. Anyway, he said he has some grouser bar ordered and wanted to know if I'd build up his track pads with it sometime after it comes in and the machine will be sitting for a while. I told him that it was a job I'd never done before but would be willing to give it a try. Was wondering if anyone here has done this job before and can offer up a procedure or advice on things to watch for or pay particular attention to. I'm almost sure he's not going to remove the pads so the grouser bar will be welded in place while on the machine. I can see this as being a slow job so I was hoping that preheating would not be a necessity or a recommendation but if it is, it is, I guess. I don't want him to tear these things off just because I skipped a step but I also don't want to spend a lot of time on unnecessary steps.

I've a SA200 to use for a welding machine, oxy-acy torch set, grinder and assorted hand tools available. I'm no pipe welder that's for sure but I have enough maintenance welding experience that I'm confident in my ability to run 7018 rods. Which brings up another question. Do you think that 7018 would be up to the job if I do my part?

So any help or advice any of you would be willing to pass on would be appreciated. There is another welding forum that I lurk at that I thought I'd also post this too. Hope that doesn't get me stoned here. :-)

Thanks,
Buzzard
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:05 PM
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texrednek texrednek is offline
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Id think 11018 would do best...just my thinking SA200 should do it
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:45 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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I'm too far away from the one man that could give you the information and since he has retired from his welding home/shop business, has since even disconnected his phone.

I do know that pad plates are added when the originals are worn and I do know that they are welded in place, but have no personal experience with this.

I'll give a hollar to the "King OF Obsolete" up in the great white north, I be he can give us some info.
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:02 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Buzzard, even tho my time is limited this afternoon, I did a quick google search and found lots of information.

Attached is a pdf file link for grouser pads. Scroll down once the file loads and look for the page with a chart and below it will be several lines of information on preping the old pads, placing the new grouser bar/plate pieces, gap to set for welding prep and the other information that you need to add the grouser materials.

http://www.wescovan.com/catalogs/GrouserBar.pdf

Seems to be a simple operation, with the products that would be supplied.

I would wait for the customer to receive his parts before you quote on the job. At least to insure that he won't be short cutting by not using what is normally used for his sized track.

There is more information on google, I just grab'd the 4th hit on the 1st page. So, if you do a little leg work on your own off the web, you'll be fine with this proceedure. Seems to be a no brainer, but there still may be some good "rules of thumb" help or a few dollar saving helpful hints gleaned from the King Of O or a few other members like "digr" etc.

Hope this helps.

Welcome, BTW.

LW
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Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

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Old 04-18-2006, 05:57 PM
buzzard buzzard is offline
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lwhiway,

That link to the pdf file is a keeper for this job. Thanks. I had googled some before I posted my questions but somehow missed this one. I like this one better than anything I'd found on my own.

The weld pass sequence/procedure and the use of 7018 rods is what I was looking for. And the note indicating that no preheat is imperative simplifies things a little.

Not much beats hands on experience so if there are "may be some good "rules of thumb" help or a few dollar saving helpful hints gleaned from the King Of O or a few other members like "digr" etc." I'm all ears,as they say.

Thanks,
Buzzard
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Old 04-18-2006, 06:17 PM
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Well buzzard, I am glad you finally served out your vow of silence & decided to say something.
And thank you for posting your location.
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Old 04-18-2006, 06:32 PM
buzzard buzzard is offline
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Ahh, you know how it is with us quiet guys.
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:35 PM
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What size machine? Putting on grouser bar is quite easy. If they are worn enough, and they probably are, skip trimming the old ones and fill the ends.
Trim the ends of the new bars to match the old grouser. Don't just make 90deg cuts 1 inch shorter than the pad, it will look like sh*t.
Use a lot of amps on as big of 7018 as you can run.
Jeff

Last edited by Jeff; 04-18-2006 at 07:44 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2006, 08:29 PM
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Grouser bars are a pain. The last set I did was a D-8 Cat with the pads off. It seemed to take for ever. I ended up with two machines with a stinger in each hand, I would start the 1/4" rod on one end and then 3/16" rod on the other and meet around the middle, would have to drop the 3/16" rod because of bad arc blow when the rods came close. Grouser bars are a thing of the past around here with labor cost as high as they are, in fact the local Cat dealer sold us a pile of bars to use as rub bars on buckets ect. Cheap. I used to preheat just enough to remove moisture and tack one end and then bend at the middle to conform to the old bar. I always used 7018 and the biggest rod you can and hot. When doing them on the machine I would tack the bars on well especially on the opposite side you are going to weld first. I would turn the track so all the welding was mostly flat. You can do a few in front then a few in back and so on. I always use a stand for the weed burner so I could heat one end whale I worked on the other. I would trim the corners when done welding. I allways held a little gap for penitration but did not try to get 100% weld.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:31 PM
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Buzzard, I just knew someone with experience on this would show up.

I fail to see how anyone with "By God" in their location could be anything closely resembling "quiet". lol

LW
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God, if you would grant me one request through Prayer, please help me be the Man my Dog thinks I am. Please.

Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

I never thought I'd live long enough to become a grumpy old bastard. Here I am, killing it!
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