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  #11  
Old 09-01-2019, 09:14 AM
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Scotts Scotts is offline
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If you are saying your switch is a big contactor then the leg of the contactor has welded itself in the operating position.

It should be normally open. If you have a continuity meter check through the circuit gwiz traced out and find where you have continuity you are not supposed to have.

Scott

Pictures look way different on the computer than on phone. In your picture of the terminal block there is a screw missing on the terminal block. How long has that been gone? It may have held a piece of something to trip a cam or some other thing. Or it may be nothing. It is a shiny spot that looks out of place.

Do all the controls feel the same? on the diagram where the part are shown there is mention of a reset spring. In the picture as shown on my screen the drawing is upside down, the spring is in the upper left hand corner. Is the spring is used to reset the starting action then it would behave as you are seeing, the motor just runs and does not disengage to be ready for the next weld. The spring may not be much bigger than one in an ink pen.

This to me looks like a 3 wire start stop with an automated stop function.


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Last edited by Scotts; 09-01-2019 at 10:08 AM.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2019, 03:43 PM
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This run on 220 ac single phase ?

Did you lose the ground ?

On the pole usually.
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2019, 04:09 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post

Power is suppled to the motor though constantly unless you are using the anneal function then power is cut to the motor.


In other words, it has power all the time. From 2 different sources.


If the anneal switch came a part in side its self (half ass short) it just may get power.

note L2 also feeds to H4.

pull the 10amp fuse and see if that stops the motor, that would be the anneal back feeding the motor.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 09-01-2019 at 04:25 PM.
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2019, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
If you are saying your switch is a big contactor then the leg of the contactor has welded itself in the operating position.

It should be normally open. If you have a continuity meter check through the circuit gwiz traced out and find where you have continuity you are not supposed to have.

Scott


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all ready have. There is no continuity or current.

No it is not welded into the closed position.


My english has gotten really bad over the years. Even worse then it used to be.
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  #15  
Old 09-01-2019, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
If the anneal switch came a part in side its self (half ass short) it just may get power.

note L2 also feeds to H4.

pull the 10amp fuse and see if that stops the motor, that would be the anneal back feeding the motor.
Ok, 1 more time.

the anneal switch or the bypass to the motor always has power.

Both leads going to the motor are live all the time.. Except when the anneal button is depressed.

If I take off this wire. the motor does stop.

If I take off the other wire from the distribution block the motor does not turn over if the wire from the anneal bypass power to the yellow wire is disconnected it does stop.

but I can not see where there is a switch or the like for the anneal by pass power.
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #16  
Old 09-01-2019, 11:29 PM
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Default DoAll DBW-8 Bandsaw blade welder whoas

Hey I found your videos about the blade welder.

You have a pleasant voice. I must admit the first time I watched your videos.

On the one video you have a piece of blade in the welder and it swung out you hit the button and welded the blade.

I see some gears there and you mentioned above you cleaned and lubed them.

If you took a piece of blade and swung the welder out are any of the gears slipping on their shafts that should not be?

I have never used a blade welder so I went looking and trying to find the process.

More questions but something kept it from just running along all the time before did it not?

If I understood correctly you were able to jog the unit into correct position by pressing the weld button now you cannot do that.

Do you have a short piece of blade to repeat or attempt to weld a blade while the welder is swung out to see what is going on?

Scott


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This post is a bit of a mess. I’ll quit using my phone for stuff like this.
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2019, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allessence View Post
Ok, 1 more time.

the anneal switch or the bypass to the motor always has power.
< I got that >

Both leads going to the motor are live all the time.. Except when the anneal button is depressed.
< I figured >

If I take off this wire. the motor does stop.

< I'm not sure what a this wire is >

If I take off the other wire from the distribution block the motor does not turn over if the wire from the anneal bypass power to the yellow wire is disconnected it does stop.

< I'm Guessing that is the motor wire on the un-switched side >

but I can not see where there is a switch or the like for the anneal by pass power.
by the drawing you have two wires that may feed power (H1 and) so as I asked pull the 10 amp anneal fuse and see if the motor stops.
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  #18  
Old 09-02-2019, 01:14 PM
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the motor still turns over with the fuse removed.

it is getting power from the anneal switch contact.

that was the yellow wire in the photo attached to the side of the anneal switch.

I ran a series of experiments:

Distribution block;

1 212v, 2)204, 3)120, 4)13o anneal switch open (normal position)
1) 212, 2)200 3) 117, 4) 220V Closed (In use or button depressed circuit closed)
1)211, 2) 211, 3) 117, 4) 117 Wire disconnected from anneal switch and no continuity from wire to motor.

210V at 4amps with motor running thru wire lead connected to anneal switch.
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #19  
Old 09-02-2019, 01:17 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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if I detach the wire from the distribution block the motor still runs.

It's only when the wire is disconnected from the Anneal switch that it stops running.

this is the confusing part.

From what I understand. and electric motor with the same current on both sides will not run..

It needs to have a lower voltage on one side to actually run.

Same principal in an auto motive setup for lights. Not sure if it applies here.
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #20  
Old 09-02-2019, 03:19 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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I'll have to read your two posts a bit later.

turn off the power and
Disconnect L1 and L2
set your meter about the 2000 ohm range and check for ground leakage

one probe to the metal case and probe the terminals for any readings, you should not have any readings.
----
the way I see it the motor maybe getting power from three ways maybe 4.

you have H1-H3

if H4-H7 gets back feed it can energize H1-H3 (reverse feeding a transformer).


L1-L2 (also 240 volts) just may be running the motor regardless of the transformer (some type of a ground short)

Long shot of the grinder motor switch in the ON position and its winding's shorted. make sure its switch is in the off position.
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