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  #11  
Old 08-28-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
The centrifugal switch removes the "cap and start winding" from power once the motor gets up to 80% rpm, only used for starting otherwise they burn up.

assuming you have the centrifugal switch wired as need be, you need to add an on/off switch.

I'm not sure what would happen if you switch the hi/lo switch while the motor is running,
so only select hi or low when the power is off AND motor at a "FULL" full stop!
But there are start capacitors & there are run capacitors.
You have to find out which you're dealing with.
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2019, 10:06 PM
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If I wire it as pictured with the current SPDT switch it is going to energize the high and low windings at the same time no matter if the switch is on high or low. Correct?

So the easiest solution is a DPDT switch so the start circuit can be isolated.

Thanks for the help
Zach
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2019, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro Zach View Post
If I wire it as pictured with the current SPDT switch it is going to energize the high and low windings at the same time no matter if the switch is on high or low. Correct?

So the easiest solution is a DPDT switch so the start circuit can be isolated.

Thanks for the help
Zach
1) yes and that will likely pull double the amps..... not good!


2) yes Looks like a DPDT "with center off" can work
the start circuit "Must" also be off at center position (or you can burn it up).

this assumes the centrifugal switch is working as should.
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2019, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
1) yes and that will likely pull double the amps..... not good!


2) yes Looks like a DPDT "with center off" can work
the start circuit "Must" also be off at center position (or you can burn it up).

this assumes the centrifugal switch is working as should.
Thanks yes the centrifugal switch works
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Old 08-29-2019, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cutter View Post
But there are start capacitors & there are run capacitors.
You have to find out which you're dealing with.
You are right, I am pretty sure that is the same motor I have in my washing machine with the exception he has a straight shaft.
the wiring colors seem to match the drawing I posted.

not that I worked on a lot of washing machines I don't remember any of the motors using a Run cap.
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  #16  
Old 08-29-2019, 01:29 AM
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From all the research I did most all older washers only have a start capacitor.

On the other hand my 220v window ac unit in the shop does use a run capacitor for the 3 speed motor.
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro Zach View Post
From all the research I did most all older washers only have a start capacitor.

On the other hand my 220v window ac unit in the shop does use a run capacitor for the 3 speed motor.
1) And a centrifugal "start" switch to go with it, some GE's used a current sensing start relay.

2) Yes low load/hp fan Motors, noticeably 3 times more copper wire and thinner.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2019, 11:00 PM
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I seen that goofy Starter switch quite a few times and wondered about them never had problems so I did not look any further.

Your post got the best of me.
The first thing we know it Disconnects the start coil from the circuit about 80% rpm.

The other is it sets a low speed contact (power) to the high speed winding at startup
when it gets up to speed it switches the contact to the Low speed winding for low speed running.


In the picture you can see the orange low switched to the high winding.
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