Repairing abuse

[Whitetrash]

It looks a hair different than I remember but, try prying under one side of that wire then the other. One end should be sort of hooked down in. Get it to pop out and turn the gland in the direction that will feed that end out.

[digr]

This might help or this one

[LKeithR]

If you clamp the barrel down really tight and take a big pipe wrench to the gland you should see the wire move a bit as you twist it. As the wire moves you should be able to work a screw driver under it and start lifting. As you rotate and lift the wire will eventually pop out. Which direction? I've seen them go both ways.

It's a shitty system; I don't know why people use it but they do. Better made cylinders will have flats or notches machined into them so you can use a big spanner or a hook wrench on them and not have to chew the gland up with your pipe wrench...

[Whitetrash]

It looks like the gland has at least one hole for a spanner give it a little squeeze in the press to hold it and try to rock the gland and watch the wire to give a clue on the short end to pop out.

[Ironman]

Thanks for the help guys. I sent it back to him as is today, he can get a new one.

[toprecycler]

Like others said, looks like a lock wire type for sure. Why do they make them that way? I suspect it is easier and quicker for the manufacture to produce them than a threaded head.

For me personally, it probably takes me longer. . But I’m getting quicker.

Pros and cons.

Pro- if head still turns, will be quicker to assemble and disassemble.
Con- hard to provide a seal area where head enters the barrel, to prevent rust or contamination from preventing the head from turning. We will usually add a bit of silicone to that opening to prevent water from entering that slot. Especially in dirty environments.

If we have the option, like we have to rebarrel and rehead the cylinder, we usually will convert it to a threaded head style. But sometimes we can’t due to the thickness of the barrel. If it’s too thin, boss says we can’t thread it because it will weaken the barrel.

But in reality, the main problem is it is really hard to thread an oring seal past the threads without damaging them, either on the piston or head, so we usually make sure the threads minimum dia of the barrel will have minimum .100” clearance.

If the barrel is only .187” thick, then it leave very little meat for holding. So at this point we will copy the OEM design.

At least with this design, we can smooth the seal groove walls so the seals can slip over them without being damaged. But then it would take the lock ring to shear in half, or barrel budging/ cracking for the head to come back out under pressure.


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[Ironman]

Originally Posted by midmosandblasting

I hope the operator is aware of the problems caused .It really looks like a good repair . Is this the Vevor you was so proud of ?

I looked it up, I bought the mag drill 15 years ago. I've burned up many corded and cordless tool over the years, most of my Dewalt stuff I liked so well never lasted half as long. So far the Milwaukee stuff has never smoked once in 7 years.

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by toprecycler

Like others said, looks like a lock wire type for sure. Why do they make them that way? I suspect it is easier and quicker for the manufacture to produce them than a threaded head.

For me personally, it probably takes me longer. . But I’m getting quicker.

Pros and cons.

Pro- if head still turns, will be quicker to assemble and disassemble.
Con- hard to provide a seal area where head enters the barrel, to prevent rust or contamination from preventing the head from turning. We will usually add a bit of silicone to that opening to prevent water from entering that slot. Especially in dirty environments.

If we have the option, like we have to rebarrel and rehead the cylinder, we usually will convert it to a threaded head style. But sometimes we can’t due to the thickness of the barrel. If it’s too thin, boss says we can’t thread it because it will weaken the barrel.

But in reality, the main problem is it is really hard to thread an oring seal past the threads without damaging them, either on the piston or head, so we usually make sure the threads minimum dia of the barrel will have minimum .100” clearance.

If the barrel is only .187” thick, then it leave very little meat for holding. So at this point we will copy the OEM design.

At least with this design, we can smooth the seal groove walls so the seals can slip over them without being damaged. But then it would take the lock ring to shear in half, or barrel budging/ cracking for the head to come back out under pressure.


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Thanks, it's always time to learn something new for me. Most ag stuff is threaded or tie rod types. I got a nice green hyd cylinder sitting in my scrap bin, the owner said scrap it, packing gland leaks. I hate doing that but I don't need it. He says if they repair it it won't last.

[toprecycler]

Originally Posted by Ironman

Thanks, it's always time to learn something new for me. Most ag stuff is threaded or tie rod types. I got a nice green hyd cylinder sitting in my scrap bin, the owner said scrap it, packing gland leaks. I hate doing that but I don't need it. He says if they repair it it won't last.

John Deere has a design that is a royal pain in the a$$ at times. The head has a groove for a split ring slips into and is under the dia of the head. There is a groove in the barrel that’s about 1 diameter bigger than the split ring. You compress the ring down and push it into the barrel. When the ring get to the barrel groove, it expands, and the head is locked from coming out.

In order to take it apart to rebuild, you push the head in further into the barrel until the the barrel groove is exposed, install a piece of plastic groove filler tool into the barrel groove, and then you pull rod and head back out of barrel. The plastic filler fills the groove enough so the round slip ring will stay compressed enough to slip be the barrel groove.

Now, if there is a burr on the barrel groove, that can and will make getting the head and piston seals out a pain in the ass. And never think you will reuse them again.

These cylinders are used on forestry equipment. Those logging guys can be very hard on their equipment. But thankfully, we specialize in trying to rebuild cylinders saving the customer money.




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[toprecycler]

Speaking of lock wire retained heads..

Had 2 cylinders come in today. Heads would not turn. Heads are inside barrel flush with end, so have to use an adjustable spanner wrench on them. Guys tried heating and penetration fluid.

They were written up for me to machine the bases out, for teardown inspection. And then we will usually machine the head out to make a new head, or possibly machine the barrel off and save the head if barrel has bad spots inside after we can inspect it.

I decided to give the head one more shot at removing before going past point of no return. I went and got my home made spanner tool, which has a bit more leverage and less likely to pinch your fingers with shops standard sissor type spanner wrenches, and amazingly enough the heads turned easily. The young apprentice kid ( bosses son who will probably take over business someday) was kinda upset that it turned so easily for me.

Sometimes patiently wait for parts to cool, penetrating oil to work, will work in the end.









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