Repairing abuse

[Ironman]

So someone from Calgary sent up this abortion to fix, because his welder employee said to scrap it. This is a boom stick from some walk behind mini excavator. I'm thinking Bobcat because of the paint.
So the operator lost the pin, and rather than stop and fix it he put a nail bar in and kept going. This wallered out the pin holes nicely, and then bent the bar into a semblance of a crankshaft. That's cool, we're still cookin' and then the ram buckled....and things came to a stop.
So I listened to all the advice he sent up and did it my way. I machined some new bushings from HR and used the mag drill to enlarge the holes from 1" egg to 1.5". This cause the magic smoke to come out of the drill and I had to give it a Viking funeral.
Then I finished with a torch and test fit the bushings.

[midmosandblasting]

I hope the operator is aware of the problems caused .It really looks like a good repair . Is this the Vevor you was so proud of ?

[Ironman]

I cleaned up all the nasty weld lumps. Now I am ready to melt steel.

After things cooled and I removed the pin, I welded on a pin ear and bolted it on to prevent the pin from rotating. I can see from the broken off grease nipples that he doesn't like to get his hands greasy, and he depends on leaking hoses for lubrication. That was pretty thick and smoking on all of it, and if the pin rotates in the bushing, this will prevent it wearing the bushings.
So, 5.5 hrs gone and it is ready to go.

Well, crap, I got a couple of wrong pictures in there and can't delete them

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by midmosandblasting

I hope the operator is aware of the problems caused .It really looks like a good repair . Is this the Vevor you was so proud of ?

No, this was something from Amazon. It lasted 6 years. But wait...I just ordered it's replacement from Vevor. Vevor and I have a ongoing war over their use of UPS. Only God know if and when I will see the new mag

[LKeithR]

Purty. But I'm jealous, I don't know why you get all the neat jobs? You may have 5.5 hours in it but I hope you bill them for more than that...

[Ironman]

It is a challenge sometimes. I have learned to walk away and in the middle of the night I often dream of a better way to do it.
Like deleting unwanted pic that snuck into the thread, I just figured out to go to my users CP and blow them up from there.
I'd like to charge 8 hr. for this, especially since my chink mag drill burned.
I am supposed to straighten the ram, but my experience is that a ram bent that far will snap when bent back into shape, and will always leak at the ram seal, so I am procrastinating.
I'm also not sure how to take it apart. It looks like there is a staple on the side of the barrel holding it in, but that can't be.

[Whitetrash]

Is it one of those cylinders where that is like a wire that feeds out as you turn the gland that locks it in? What do you know they call them a Lock Wire style cylinder.

[Whitetrash]

I flat out couldn't remember what they were called. I've only seen a couple over the years.

[toprecycler]

In my experience, if the rod is induction hardened, do not try to straighten it. I tried one time, and the old guy in the shop still walks away most of the time I am at the press, 6 years later.

I learned a lesson that day. Lucky no one hurt by flying pieces, and it only had a slight bend.

However, maybe some day I will try an experiment. Try heating the induction hardened area back up to anneal it, then try to straighten it. I have successfully annealed new induction Hardened rods to cut in the saw using a gas torch. I heated area around the rod til it started to change color, then let it cool.

Normally when we try to cut an induction hardened rod, the blade will start ok but slight difference in sound. About 1/4” in, it takes most of the teeth out.

Way we usually test the rods, is take a center punch and hit it fairly hard. If it takes the point out of the punch and no mark on the rod, beware. Or these days I just hit with a hammer, especially if we know there is no chance we are reusing the old rod.

You can also use a file.

The induction harden layer is usually only about .100” deep. After you machine past this depth, material is normal, usually.

I would say that in our shop, we probably replace an OEM induction Harden rod with a standard chrome rod 75% of the time, if we catch before quoting that it is IH. Depends on the customer, but most choose to go the cheaper amount, and gamble that they will not loose lifespan due to softer rod material.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by Whitetrash

Is it one of those cylinders where that is like a wire that feeds out as you turn the gland that locks it in? What do you know they call them a Lock Wire style cylinder.

I'll post a picture of this and maybe you can tell me for sure.

Brian----
Here it is