Wheel barrow welding table

[arizonian]

I am tired of my welding table setup, a small piece of 1/4" plate on 2 flimsy horses. If the wind is blowing, and it always is under my lean too, I have to move the table inside or revert to stick welding.

Drawings first. The plan is a 36" x 48" top, 3/8" HR with 2-1/2" x 1/8" HSS sq tube underneath, the overhang is 3" all the way around. I came up with this idea without calculating weight ahead of time, so I hope it won't bite me too hard. Total weight after calculating is shy of 300 lbs. Wheels are 5" from HF on one end, a couple of 1" Std pipe on the other end will be my wheelbarrow handles, not shown on the sketch.

Cut the HSS to length, 8 pieces, then cut the 1-1/2 sq tb for the lower pan. Fit the top frame up on the table at Dad's and welded it out. Saw cuts were close but I did have a slightly short piece that left a small gap.

Cut the four feet, took 2 of them over to the mill for D&T, then glued them to the risers. Next tacked up the risers and called it a day.

Picked up the table top from Superior Steel today. Tacked in the lower pan supports and welded the frame out. Getting the frame off the table wasn't too bad, rolled it over to the Toyota and wheelbarrowed the top over to the table.

The top needed to be flipped and it weighs in at 183 lbs. Once flipped, cleaned up the burr from the shear and set the frame on top, set the overhang to 3" all around and welded the top on.

Still to come are the wheelbarrow handles and something to hang clamps from around the underside of the table. The handles will slide all the way in and be pinned in both configurations. The pipe just barely fits into the 1-1/2" sq tube. With a 3/8" top, I'll be able to D&T for any fastener 1/2" and under should the need arise. I also plan on a 10ga perforated lower pan welded underneath the lower supports.

On edit, the file is a halfround bastard file with reverse teeth cut with a cutoff wheel and the end sharpened to a chisel edge. If you have fit pipe extensively, you know exactly what it's for. In this case, it is my main deburring tool.

[randydupree]

don't foret to add 2 pipe handles that slide out from under the bottom (like a wheel barrow) to make it easy to move,or to flip up to unload!

[arizonian]

Originally Posted by randydupree

don't foret to add 2 pipe handles that slide out from under the bottom (like a wheel barrow) to make it easy to move, or to flip up to unload!

I like the way you think!

[mccutter]

You will soon be wondering why you didn't do this sooner... Looks good!

[dubby]

Looks grand. Lots of room to accessorize down the line but plenty to get you going in the right direction.

Only thing I'd add (or takeaway in this case) is to radius the corners of the top more. I'm discovering that my skin ain't as tough as it used to be and all the sharp corners I left on everything years ago are getting much better at attacking.

[toprecycler]

Or maybe you can steal my idea for wheelbarrow type handles. I made these years ago when I made a box to hold the Cub Scout pinewood derby track.

Hope you can get the idea from the pictures. Not the best that I found quickly.

The pipe hangs down vertically, and then just swings up against stops to carry position. You can use a nylock nut to provide just enough friction for handle to stay up, yet fold away easily. Handle is always there, never lost or used elsewhere.

Did you find your top warp much from welding to the frame? I learned long ago the top doesn’t need much more than 1/4” long tack welds. Another guy had made a 6’x12’ table at previous job, and he welded 2-3” long beads. I fought that warped down edges for about 5 years before I cut it apart and rewelded it. Managed to get the warpage from about an 1/8” to .020”.





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[digr]

3 " vice, pipe vice, and a magnetic small parts holder. I used 1" stock for the clamps on the vices but I think 3/4" would be fine. Its nice to be able to place them where you need them. The magnets are great for holding plates for grinding and sanding plus layout, you don't have to chase the part around the bench with a square.

[randydupree]

Originally Posted by digr

3 " vice, pipe vice, and a magnetic small parts holder. I used 1" stock for the clamps on the vices but I think 3/4" would be fine. Its nice to be able to place them where you need them. The magnets are great for holding plates for grinding and sanding plus layout, you don't have to chase the part around the bench with a square.

Thats a nice idea too.

[randydupree]

Originally Posted by toprecycler

Or maybe you can steal my idea for wheelbarrow type handles. I made these years ago when I made a box to hold the Cub Scout pinewood derby track.

Hope you can get the idea from the pictures. Not the best that I found quickly.

The pipe hangs down vertically, and then just swings up against stops to carry position. You can use a nylock nut to provide just enough friction for handle to stay up, yet fold away easily. Handle is always there, never lost or used elsewhere.

Did you find your top warp much from welding to the frame? I learned long ago the top doesn’t need much more than 1/4” long tack welds. Another guy had made a 6’x12’ table at previous job, and he welded 2-3” long beads. I fought that warped down edges for about 5 years before I cut it apart and rewelded it. Managed to get the warpage from about an 1/8” to .020”.

Attachment 171026
Attachment 171027


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Yes,swing up handles work well too.

[arizonian]

Sorta finished the table up today. It's too damn hot to do anything while the sun is still up, so I'll sit here in my easy chair and ponder now that I'm out of the sun. Still have holes to drill and vices to mount.

Toprecycler, took your idea and ran with it. I wasn't sure how high to put the handles and judging by the feel now that the table is on the ground, I need to raise the handles 4-6 inches. When lifting to where it's comfortable, everything goes to the floor RIGHT NOW.