SS100 “replica” Project Car

[CaddmannQ]

Today I rerouted some fuel lines and eliminated most of the flexible fuel hose in the system.

I also started taking the front suspension apart. I need to soften the front springs, because there is no static droop. Not only is the front suspension topped out, the shocks are under tension! I had to compress the springs with ratchet straps to re- install the shocks.

I put it all back together once I discovered that to lower the car more I need to invert the tie rods. For that I will need tapered bushings, & I must order them. Also I will maybe want a different style of ball joint separator. I can get that locally.

[arizonian]

Originally Posted by CaddmannQ

Today I rerouted some fuel lines and eliminated most of the flexible fuel hose in the system.

I also started taking the front suspension apart. I need to soften the front springs, because there is no static droop. Not only is the front suspension topped out, the shocks are under tension! I had to compress the springs with ratchet straps to re- install the shocks.

I put it all back together once I discovered that to lower the car more I need to invert the tie rods. For that I will need tapered bushings, & I must order them. Also I will maybe want a different style of ball joint separator. I can get that locally.

Get a pair of dropped spindles if you are lowering your front end. Keep the "factory" tierod/steering box geometry. Otherwise you might run into bump steer flipping the tie rod ends over.

If you want to soften the spring rate, take some of the outermost torsion leaves out of the spring pack.

JBUGS Dropped Spindles

[CaddmannQ]

Thank you, but that won’t solve my problem at all.

My suspension will still be topped out.

When I undo the top nuts on the shock absorbers the front bumper rises another inch. It’s topped out and clamped down!

Also because the steering box has been rotated down I may not have to change the inner tie rod end configuration. But this is a custom car and it does not have the clearances of the stock Volkswagen. My tie rods are rubbing the underside of the body and drop spindles won’t change that a bit.

Also, I’m not really worried about bump steer because this is a show car and I’m not gonna drive it much. I am certainly not going to take it racing.

[CaddmannQ]

I got a good used electronic voltage Regulator today for 26 bucks. I put it on the car and it seems to work but I couldn’t keep the engine running.

Unfortunately my fuel system is a total failure and I am suckin air somewhere.

[GWIZ]

Is that a 6 volt or 12 volt generator?

[CaddmannQ]

It’s a 12 volt.

Today I replaced all of my new restorer-grade Volkswagen fuel hose, and one old piece of dried out SAE hose (there are 5 hoses.) That reproduction fuel hose was going bad quickly from all the alcohol in the gas.

I found the car would only run as long as I had enough gas in the tank, and once it got low enough it didn’t want to run.

I was hoping to take the car out today because it supposed to start raining tonight. I worked on it for quite a while but there was no way I could get a new fuel pump tonight. At least I have a really tight fuel set up And the battery is charging.

I haven’t done anything about the stiff front springs yet. I’ll be tearing it down to shave them, unless it doesn’t start raining.

I did let 10 pounds of air out of the front tires. I’ll see if I can lock ‘em up now.

[CaddmannQ]

My wife took these videos while we were driving the car a few days ago. So far I put less than 10 miles on it because I am having issues with the fuel cap leaking.


https://youtu.be/cTmdirg-sV4

https://youtu.be/Cb6WZpk10mo

[mccutter]

FYI: this is on my local FarceBuk. VWMGTD LINK

[CaddmannQ]

That's a Fiberglass "replica" very similar in construction to my car, but 13"+ shorter.

I got this Chinese distributor assembly complete for $98 at the only old VW shop left hereabouts.
People on the VW forum have convinced me I need a vacuum advance distributor, unless I'm just drag racing.

[Scotts]

Originally Posted by CaddmannQ

I got this Chinese distributor assembly complete for $98 at the only old VW shop left hereabouts.
People on the VW forum have convinced me I need a vacuum advance distributor, unless I'm just drag racing.

I ran a couple air cooled VWs in the past. got a Bosch 009 distributor and ran it for years on both of them. No vacuum advance, Never an issue. Your may experience different results and that is the happiness part of the car you are building. I like it.

I have read many times when you run vacuum advance hose make sure to not run in directly downhill to the distributor, the gas will find its way down the hose into the diaphragm and eat it up. That is why the stock metal tube comes out and rises above the top of the carb before going to the distributor.

Also if the fuel fittings in your carb and fuel pump are only pressed in tubes those can come out while running and you can have a fire and the whole car can be gone quick if you do not see it. ( I wonder how I know that? ) I got it put out quick enough not to loose the car. On the units I fixed I pulled the tubes out and drilled and tapped for 1/8 inch or smaller and used threaded fittings into the bodies of the carb and fuel pump to fix that. Been a long time ago since I did this so not sure of threaded size.

Scott