Getting rid of the green

[Ironman]

Ok, today the drive motor is installed, and the power unit and pump are bolted together and bolted to the old battery base.
The pump is a 1.02 cu. in displacement....not sure if that is too much pump, as this is a bit of guesswork. I really don't want this thing to be lightning fast.
I can't use the Vickers pump that was on it, as the thing has a 1/4 inch long slotted shaft. Don't have an idea of the displacement of that one, or the rpm.
Also test fitted the hydraulic tank, it just sits there with a couple of angle iron brackets to keep it from sliding about. It was mounted before at the lowest point possible and I raised it up. I like gravity feed to a pump or at least being on the same level instead of below the pump. I like to think pumps last longer this way.
The last picture is the hydraulic circuit. I think this should work, let me know if you see problems.

[rmack898]

Gerry if there is a cover for the battery (now engine) compartment, make sure there will be enough air flow for engine cooling.

[akabull]

I was thinking you may want to relocate that muffler or your bum may get a little warm.

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by akabull

I was thinking you may want to relocate that muffler or your bum may get a little warm.

There is a housing /battery cover that goes over it and Rmack is right, I will have to ventilate it.

[Ironman]

I'm going to cut and crimp hoses today. Does anyone see a problem with the hydraulic curcuit shown?

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by Ironman

I'm going to cut and crimp hoses today. Does anyone see a problem with the hydraulic curcuit shown?

Well, I do.
I started up the engine, and things were good. No leaks, and I bumped the direction valve and the wheels turned in the right direction. No heating.
I raised the mast...it goes up pretty quickly....and when I lower it, the engine loads up and stalls. Now this is a single acting cylinder and valve. It's impossible to load the motor and pump when lowering.
It lowers just fine after the engine stalls

are the control valves from the lift originally? If not is there mix/match issue with open/closed center items? could it be possible to tap the power beyond port(if equiped) in the 2 spool valve for the sinlge acting valve.

[Norm W]

IM,

Sounds like you have the lift and tilt valves hooked up wrong. If the tilt works correctly and there isn't a built in relief valve on the valve block you may have reversed the in and out ports. Or it may be the wrong type of valve as the pump is not usually running on an electric lift in down mode.

Norm

[OldRedFord]

Originally Posted by akabull

I was thinking you may want to relocate that muffler or your bum may get a little warm.

But its to stay warm on those cold canuk days.

[Whitetrash]

Is the directional valve for the motor open center? I'm wondering if bringing the mast down creates a flow bottleneck on your return side of the system. especially since you say the mast comes down fine once the engine stalls. Which kills the extra flow from the pump. If the valve for the motor is open center you have another return path for pump output. If not I'm thinking you need more capacity flow wise on your return side