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  #11  
Old 05-16-2018, 05:25 AM
BIHAR BIHAR is offline
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Rebuilding and Repairing Excavator, Loader and Backhoe Buckets With New Steel and Welding.
Excavator buckets can fail due to corrosion or due to heavy usage that literally wears away the steel or breaks the welds. This excavator bucket saw use in a gravel pit, but given that a new rock bucket can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars, repairing an existing rock bucket is always an option. The bottom of the bucket has already been cut out and will have to be replaced with hardened steel, on which the new tooth shanks will be welded. Abrasive resistant steel (AR400) offers much better wear resistance than the mild steel some stock buckets are fabricated from.
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2018, 04:27 PM
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I use a scarfing tip, most of the time its just as fast and sometimes faster and no noise and best of all no fumes.
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2018, 12:11 AM
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Called and priced a cutting edge. $91 out the door. Made the 14 mile trip to pick it up. Old edge was 5/8, new one is 3/4”. Gonna be a good weekend. Now if Ron would come visit with his fancy pulsed arc warp drive spray welding machine I’d be set!

Pardon the shit storm on the table. It’s my to do list.
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2018, 03:14 AM
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TEK TEK is offline
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Your SA200 will run 3/16 round airarc rod, it'll grunt but it will do it.

Like everyone else is saying, ear protection, firewatch, all of that. Even safety glasses inside the hood; the hot stuff goes everywhere. Seriously.

Also, you only need a couple of inches sticking out front to work, if you get too far out the air is too scattered around and it has a tendency to not blast where it's needed.

Also, don't forget that the back end of the rod is hot too...I pierced a hyd line once when I wasn't really paying attention to the backside.

I got a pretty good shock once too when I was climbing up the side of a scraper and went to reach for a handhold and ran my elbow into the rod.

A sa200 at full chat will change your world....
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2018, 02:26 PM
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LKeithR LKeithR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
...Called and priced a cutting edge. $91 out the door. Made the 14 mile trip to pick it up. Old edge was 5/8, new one is 3/4”...
Good price on the cutting edge--around here that would be $165-$175 (CDN). I always like to go larger when replacing cutting edges--most of the lighter duty utility buckets start out with undersize edges...

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...Pardon the shit storm on the table. It’s my to do list...
That's all ya got? Sheesh...
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  #16  
Old 05-17-2018, 11:44 PM
Farmersamm Farmersamm is offline
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I've been away for a while, what with all that's happening here.

I'd really like to point you to a good scarfing tip. I just don't feel that arc gouging is a viable alternative for us guys that don't have the bigass engine drives.

I picked up an arc gouging torch (I guess you call them that), and was very displeased with it. I have more control over an O/A rig, and can remove metal like it's with a razor. And a torch is absolutely the bomb for thick stuff. Just a matter of directing the oxygen stream in the right place.

Scarfing tips are kinda funny. You have to wash the metal out........either with gravity, or slicing it off from the top down. Either way......I really think they're more efficient than arc gouging....at least in my small little world.

I gotta scare up some pics of what I'm talking about.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2018, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmersamm View Post
I've been away for a while, what with all that's happening here.

I'd really like to point you to a good scarfing tip. I just don't feel that arc gouging is a viable alternative for us guys that don't have the bigass engine drives.

I picked up an arc gouging torch (I guess you call them that), and was very displeased with it. I have more control over an O/A rig, and can remove metal like it's with a razor. And a torch is absolutely the bomb for thick stuff. Just a matter of directing the oxygen stream in the right place.

Scarfing tips are kinda funny. You have to wash the metal out........either with gravity, or slicing it off from the top down. Either way......I really think they're more efficient than arc gouging....at least in my small little world.

I gotta scare up some pics of what I'm talking about.

Well all I have at my disposal is a paltry SA200. I understand this is the nigger of the welding world and no one in their right mind would weld with one much less try to arc gouge.

I’ve chosen my path.
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2018, 11:17 AM
JBFab JBFab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
Well all I have at my disposal is a paltry SA200. I understand this is the nigger of the welding world and no one in their right mind would weld with one much less try to arc gouge.

I’ve chosen my path.
Don't listen to him. 3/16 round air arc will do a fantastic job of removing those welds. I wish I had time to come down and show you a couple tips. You need to get good at keeping JUST the right arc length bury it too far and you'll stick, not far enough, and it's ineffective.
And don't speak so poorly of that machine (even in jest), it kills me!
A torch can get good results too, but just because one person isn't good at a certain process doesn't make the process flawed...

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  #19  
Old 05-18-2018, 10:39 PM
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I think your SA 200 will be fine with the 3/16 carbons. And you need a lot of air too. If you do Instagram, check out ICWeld. He does some amazing work with an carbon arc. Almost looked like welding with 7018! It will take some practice to get that good though.


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  #20  
Old 05-18-2018, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
I think your SA 200 will be fine with the 3/16 carbons. Besides, it is due for a little workout. And you need a lot of air too. If you do Instagram, check out ICWeld. He does some amazing work with an carbon arc. Almost looked like welding with 7018! It will take some practice to get that good though.


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