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  #11  
Old 07-31-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
In a "2011 F-150" ???
Ford F150
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2019, 11:53 AM
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If it's a 2011 it ain't a diesel. Ford just announced an f-150 diesel last year.

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The First-Ever Diesel-Powered Ford F-150. Arriving in spring 2018, the Ford F-150 will offer an available a 3.0L Power StrokeĀ® diesel V6 engine that delivers full-size diesel pickup capability and performance. ... The F-150 with the 3.0L Power Stroke is targeted to have an EPA-estimated rating of 30 mpg highway.
In any case, as far as I'm concerned a lift gate on an F-150 would be a waste. My brother has a 2008 model and, while it's a nice truck, its weight capacity is limited. Put anything over 800 lbs in it and it struggles...
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
If it's a 2011 it ain't a diesel. Ford just announced an f-150 diesel last year.



In any case, as far as I'm concerned a lift gate on an F-150 would be a waste. My brother has a 2008 model and, while it's a nice truck, its weight capacity is limited. Put anything over 800 lbs in it and it struggles...
Yup, if I step onto the rear bumper, and jump up/down (get aerobic
fat activity going), passengers inside get whiplash....
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2019, 12:55 PM
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Well excuse me it is a F 350
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2019, 01:10 PM
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Well excuse me it is a F 350
That's quite a difference sir.

Much like the diff between a chevy/GMC 3500 and 3500 HD
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  #16  
Old 08-01-2019, 08:45 AM
bunkclimber bunkclimber is offline
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Default liftgate wiring

regardless of any truck a liftgate goes on, a run of #2 welding cable installed in flexloom,wired directly back to the battery(s) would be the best way to go,both from a current draw and voltage drop point. Yes, the gate only runs for so long and then stops,but most pickup wiring harnesses can't supply the required current for a gate.
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2019, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkclimber View Post
regardless of any truck a liftgate goes on, a run of #2 welding cable installed in flexloom,wired directly back to the battery(s) would be the best way to go,both from a current draw and voltage drop point. Yes, the gate only runs for so long and then stops,but most pickup wiring harnesses can't supply the required current for a gate.
Exactly. The motor for a hydraulic power pack needs the same current supply as a heavy duty starter. Control wiring can be lighter but the power to the motor solenoid needs to be heavy duty...
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2019, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Well excuse me it is a F 350
If its an F350, see if it has upfitter switches already installed. If so, those are prewired with relays and have a stub wires on the firewall on the drivers side corner you for you to use to hook them to things. That would be the easiest way to run the pump on the fuel tank. On my 2017 F350 they are rated for 30 or 40 amps. Mine is a cab and chassis with dual alternators, the pickup version isn't spec'd quite the same but should work just the same if it has the switches.

Otherwise I'd do the same thing I said before and get the junction box to tie into the trailer lights, and wire the lift gate directly off the batteries.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2019, 09:02 PM
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The truck is finally done, fuel tank, headache rack, Tonneau Cover and backup camera and sensor bar.

1 headache rack and tank

2 bed cover and lift gate

3 sensor bar and camera mount

4 wiring

5 done except to tie up a few wires
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  #20  
Old 10-10-2019, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
The truck is finally done, fuel tank, headache rack, Tonneau Cover and backup camera and sensor bar.

1 headache rack and tank

2 bed cover and lift gate

3 sensor bar and camera mount

4 wiring

5 done except to tie up a few wires
Looks very well done.
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