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  #11  
Old 07-31-2020, 02:28 AM
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That looks basically like mine, is there a one way valve for when you lift the saw allowing the cylinder to move?
I think the fluid flows past the cup seal on the piston when you lift it but not the other way around to give it a "one-way" effect. I don't think the ball valve is "special"--when it is closed it is blocking the flow of fluid in either direction...
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2020, 08:42 AM
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I think the fluid flows past the cup seal on the piston when you lift it but not the other way around to give it a "one-way" effect. I don't think the ball valve is "special"--when it is closed it is blocking the flow of fluid in either direction...
Thanks, that makes sense. Another project.
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2020, 08:55 AM
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Got a question if anyone can help. I have a small home metal bandsaw, Chinese thing which many people seem to have under various names. Do the pulleys on these need to be crowned? It throws blades when it feels like it. I saw a video yesterday where large ones are crowned and it made sense, any opinions?
Do you have flanged band wheels?
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2020, 10:22 AM
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Ironman, this just uses its own weight to feed, a small cylinder might be a good idea, I’ll have to look into that. Thanks
Here you go Clive.
This is very easily done at home if you have a small cylinder and a needle valve for metering.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2020, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Do you have flanged band wheels?
Yes they are flanged.
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  #16  
Old 08-02-2020, 07:36 AM
Lew Hartswick Lew Hartswick is offline
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Any body have suggestions for making table inserts for vert. saws?? Trying to sand or file to a scribed circle accurately enough is worse than tricky. :-)
...lew...
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  #17  
Old 08-02-2020, 12:44 PM
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Yes they are flanged.
The running OD surface of the wheel should be cut flat and concentric with the
shaft the wheel runs on. Crowns are only (and not always) cut on flangeless
wheels. Also you need to include a relief cut into the wheel next to the flange.

When you adjust the tracking on the band, the band should run 1/32"-1/16" off
the flange with no load on the band. When cutting if the band contacts the
flange that is fine along as it is not rubbing hard. If it is rubbing hard your
saw guides need to adjusted, the guide should take the force of the cut.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2020, 04:05 PM
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Should probably get a blade with more TPI as well, while not optimum, it will help to control "overfeeding".
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2020, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
The running OD surface of the wheel should be cut flat and concentric with the
shaft the wheel runs on. Crowns are only (and not always) cut on flangeless
wheels. Also you need to include a relief cut into the wheel next to the flange.

When you adjust the tracking on the band, the band should run 1/32"-1/16" off
the flange with no load on the band. When cutting if the band contacts the
flange that is fine along as it is not rubbing hard. If it is rubbing hard your
saw guides need to adjusted, the guide should take the force of the cut.
Shade there is no relief next to the flange ,I know it is concentric as I replaced the steel bushes it came with, I put sealed bearings in. Next time I change a blade it will be a quick job to put in a relief. Thanks.
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