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  #11  
Old 07-09-2016, 05:39 PM
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1. And there she sits.

2. The headband in place. This thing is more secure than I ever hope it would be for such a relatively small amount of work put into it.
Now that is true only if you don't count the false starts that preceded it.

3. Then there had to be a base for the guide bar to sit on and I simply failed to get a decent picture of it in the early stages but you will see more of it later.
This shot is to show that it does have a gusset to help keep it from flexing.
This too was the result of a second attempt to come up with something that would work. The first attempt was a right angle and the surface it fastens too is not plumb. Duh.
This one is bent past 90°.

4. Back to the yoke, the first part was not long enough to work by itself so I had to 2-piece it, using a flat bar that dubby gave me to advance the cause.
Thank you again.
At this point you might notice there is now a 1 inch chrome bar making it's first appearance. I had found that the 3/4" rod I used in the first experiment had too much flex in it to be effective. That surprised me but this mill exhibits a good bit of torque in her determination to rotate when the head is traveling up or down.
There are also 3 set screws that you might notice around the chrome bar.
They are there to secure the rod and to give me a little bit of fine adjustment to the position.

5. And then back down to the base, (did you notice that I'm following the Pulp Fiction plot line here?) the socket holding the bottom of the rod to the base is clamped to the base in this picture. It got moved around a lot over the length of this experiment before I could determine where it needed to live permanently.

That socket that holds the bar was piece that already had about a 1.25" hole part way through it. I bored a 1 inch hole deeper into it and can store dirt, greasy dust and shavings in the void in the future.

So now we have the the top and the bottom of this contraption and the "connecting" rod, the actual guide bar that the head will have to follow.

A note about that 1" bar: I know that someone gave it to me a good while ago. I know that it lived in a particular spot in the side door frame until I dug it out for this project but for the life of me I cannot remember who dropped it off here. It might have been my son Steve or dubby might have brought it or it could have been someone else. I can't remember and it bothers me.
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Last edited by cutter; 07-09-2016 at 05:50 PM.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2016, 05:43 PM
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Okay, I'm tired of this for now. And Wilson needs my participation in his schedule.
We have other things to do, part of his mental health program.
That takes a good bit of my time, you know.

to be continued.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

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  #13  
Old 07-09-2016, 07:35 PM
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Cutter, thanks, looking forward to the rest.
Clive
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  #14  
Old 07-09-2016, 07:42 PM
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Poor Mildred, exposed to the world, without proper covers for decency.......
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2016, 08:40 PM
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There had to be a sleeve or housing for the 1 inch bronze bearings/bushings that slide on the chrome bar.

I hunted around & came up with a part from one of those old Texas Inertia Nut Crackers that were popular for a while 25 years ago or thereabouts.
All I had left of it was the hammer, the part that was driven by rubber bands to slam into the pecan & fracture it. It is approximately 1.5" diameter x 4.25" inches long. The bushings are 1.25" O.D.

1. So I chucked it up in little Charlie, turned the stain off the outside, trimmed the ends a bit and we bored a hole through it for a starting point.

2. Old Claude was kind enough to drill it out to 1 inch.

3. Then it was up to Mildred to bore it out. She had no idea just how boring all this was going to become.
We relieved the middle part of it to slightly over 1 inch to clear the guide bar then wallered out the ends to accept about 1.5" of bushing on each end.

4. After we got it bored out to the point the bushings acted like they wanted to fit I deemed it good enough.

5. Then I used the old Wilton to press them in, stopping occasionally to check alignment compatibility with the guide bar. That worked out well.
The next step would be figuring out how to interface this sleeve to Mildred's head.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

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  #16  
Old 07-09-2016, 09:29 PM
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I was perplexed by the challenge of figuring out how to mount the sleeve to the head and have it be aligned correctly. I decided it should be adjustable, at least temporarily.

For reasons of his own, Old Man had sent me a box full of 2.25" x 7 gauge drops from from someone's iron worker.
I decided to see if I could finally find a use for a few of them, four of them as it turned out.

1 - 4. More accurately, 2 pairs. One disc of each pair is drilled and tapped while the other is slotted way beyond what I actually needed but I figured that overkill was a good option. The center holes are for a pivot pin or bolt.

The goal is to provide a setup that can pivot in two planes, horizontal & vertical.

Here are some steps along the way.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

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  #17  
Old 07-09-2016, 09:44 PM
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1 & 2. Like I said, overkill.
I did not want to have to take it apart just to tweak the slots.

3. So it could end up something like this.

At this point I installed the guide bar & gave it a try.
The inherent twisting action in the head, the rack or wherever it originates was so strong that it would flex the assembly.
Mildred is sometimes a lot like Wilson: she can he headstrong in an unhelpful direction at times.

So it was on to the next step.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

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For I am still as God created me."
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2016, 10:04 PM
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Rod,
The walking back & forth when you crank the handle is why I used my crank arm as the slider attach point for the bar. (if that makes sense)

For adjustment I have bronze flanged bushings that slide on the rod & slotted the flange they ride in. That slotted flange then slides in the bent 3/8" bars welded to the crank extension.

By having the crank handle far enough away, I get minor deflection when I raise or lower the head. To adjust the "anti-pivot" bar, I left everything loose, then made the head square with the table. Locked down all the adjustments & it stays square when up or down.
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2016, 10:21 PM
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Mildred and I talked it over, she apologized for her twisted behavior, we agreed that it was probably caused by childhood abuse in her early development.
She needed a little bracing to help her cope with it.

1. Actually, I had anticipated this might be case so I had left an little tab over on the left side of the mounting plate.

2. But first I another decision to make. I did not want to weld any more to the bushing sleeve for fear of egg-shaping it or losing the fit to the bushings.
I decided to bore out another sleeve, press to fit the nutcracker sleeve.
Again I didn't have any kind of tube that could be modified for the job.
I gritted my teeth & sawed a chunk off this 2 inch bar from my scrapyard.

3. Back to the lathe to turn the rust off and face the ends.

4. On to the drill press with a hole saw. That was fun.
Finally, lots of Mildred & the boring bar. I have no idea what kind of steel this was but it was murder to work with.

5. It really did take a lot of time but we finally turned out a sleeve.
It is app. 2 1/2" long.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

Just Keep Walking

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  #20  
Old 07-09-2016, 10:54 PM
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1. The new sleeve needed a slot to allow the nutcracker/bearing sleeve to fit.
Mildred obliged.

2. The old Rucker hybrid-something hydraulic press smushed them together.
Sorry I didn't take a decent picture of this.

3, 4 & 5. The Final Grinder forward attachment got to play a little role in all of this.
Of all the many things Old Man did for me, inspiring me to finish his final project is the blue ribbon winner.

Now Wilson says it is time for Squeaky Ball in the back yard, and then his supper.
Back later.
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"Dr. Chandran, will I dream?"

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For I am still as God created me."
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