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  #941  
Old 01-08-2020, 01:45 PM
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I use "In-ground Gutters". A trench about 6 inches deep, lined with plastic, running parallel to the building, under the eves. At the bottom is a 4 inch plastic pipe with a screening sock over it, covered with gravel. The pipe carries the water to a low spot, away from the building. The up hill end has an access cover so the pipe can be flushed out.
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  #942  
Old 01-08-2020, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm W View Post
I use "In-ground Gutters". A trench about 6 inches deep, lined with plastic, running parallel to the building, under the eves. At the bottom is a 4 inch plastic pipe with a screening sock over it, covered with gravel. The pipe carries the water to a low spot, away from the building. The up hill end has an access cover so the pipe can be flushed out.
Basically a French drain?
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  #943  
Old 01-08-2020, 08:17 PM
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Here's what the roof line looks like. Quickly found out not all my wall panels were cut the same.

If I don't install the gutters I'll at least put some trim up there for it to look better.
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  #944  
Old 01-08-2020, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Do I get the lull or something else back out here later to hang gutters or not?
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Originally Posted by kbs2244 View Post
Before you get too far into a DIY gutter project, get a quote.
(Super sized.)

It is a high, 2 man, job
They will the equipment and experience.

In my experience it is worth the extra. if there is any, cost.
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Originally Posted by slip knot View Post
I'll second the gutter quote idea. There are companies around here that specialize in gutters. way cheaper than I could buy the materials

Gutters and overhead doors are two things I farm out entirely.
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Yep, it is best to hire some of that stuff out.
If you hire or diy remember that over time on eave troughs, the fail point is the hangers. I have had to make my own replacements so they would last.
Make sure they are strong and that there is enough of them.
They have to carry a constant wet leaf load and water, until cleaned.

How you gonna clean them? If you were putting a 20 ft section over the man door area, and keep them from putting screens in, that short a length may self clean. If it's the whole shop...well that's another thing.
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Originally Posted by randydupree View Post
I never put gutters on a building,cleaning them out is a bitch,and Tims bulding is pretty tall.
Put gravel around the building and let it pour.
We can get 10'' of rain in a day down here,it takes big down spouts to handle that much water.
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Me too. It takes surprisingly little gravel to fill a spot all along the drip line about 6" wide and 2" deep.
What they said. I would consider the rock around the block as mentioned... Dig that dozer out and get to grading a pitch away from the building.

We had a company put up gutters on our house about 10 years ago. They work great and deflect water out away from the house which is high and dry, fortunately. I have to dig out the receipt to see how much we paid for approximately 250' of gutters. BUT, we are having a new roof put on this month and to quote the salesman: "We are not responsible for the gutters. Our guys will TRY to take them off without damaging them but we can't be held responsible. You can leave them up but there will be ladders against them and they could get damaged" What I heard was: "Your gutters are probably going to be trashed!"

Still haven't decided what we are going to do with the gutters as they are in good condition and only mildly mildewed in spots. The company that put them up had a trailer with a roll of material that was formed in place. 4-5 on the crew, a family operation. I've seriously considered hiring them to remove and re-install them because one span is 80 fucking feet long! I could probably rig up some stands and get our fam of four to help remove/move them. But ours are only 8' up. In your case, I think you should just do without--maybe put some overhangs over the doors.
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  #945  
Old 01-08-2020, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
Here's what the roof line looks like. Quickly found out not all my wall panels were cut the same.

If I don't install the gutters I'll at least put some trim up there for it to look better.
Did you check for square of the roof frame? Pythagorean Theorem: Given a right triangle, AxA + BxB = CxC, the square root of CxC = C, with C being the hypotenuse. The hyp. is the diagonal of the right triangle. The front and side walls are the right angle. If you measure from opposing corner to corner, then from the other opposing corner to corner, both dimensions should be equal. Probably a little too late to measure now...
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  #946  
Old 01-08-2020, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
Did you check for square of the roof frame? Pythagorean Theorem: Given a right triangle, AxA + BxB = CxC, the square root of CxC = C, with C being the hypotenuse. The hyp. is the diagonal of the right triangle. The front and side walls are the right angle. If you measure from opposing corner to corner, then from the other opposing corner to corner, both dimensions should be equal. Probably a little too late to measure now...
Sure did. But I got one piece of tin off on one side. Oops.

I like the gravel around the base of the building with slotted pvc pipe with filter fabric to carry the water away idea the best.
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  #947  
Old 01-09-2020, 12:27 PM
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Tim, it happens.
I've put on my share of steel roofs. Even if you follow procedure of finding dead center of the roof and putting your first sheet dead center on it. This can happen because as you screw down the steel, if you are not perfectly positioned and engaged to the previous sheet, that little error gets magnified by the time you reach the end.
EDIT
If the roof edge is any indicator in picture 3 , that problem is showing because you centered on one end and started there. When you measure the ridge line and mark center, then measure the eave and mark center, you will find that almost all roofs are off by some amount. When you position steel off that center line, the alignment problem ends up at the gable edge and is trimmed off.
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Last edited by Ironman; 01-09-2020 at 12:36 PM.
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  #948  
Old 01-12-2020, 09:29 PM
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Making more progress inside.
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  #949  
Old 01-15-2020, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Tim, it happens.
I've put on my share of steel roofs. Even if you follow procedure of finding dead center of the roof and putting your first sheet dead center on it. This can happen because as you screw down the steel, if you are not perfectly positioned and engaged to the previous sheet, that little error gets magnified by the time you reach the end.
EDIT
If the roof edge is any indicator in picture 3 , that problem is showing because you centered on one end and started there. When you measure the ridge line and mark center, then measure the eave and mark center, you will find that almost all roofs are off by some amount. When you position steel off that center line, the alignment problem ends up at the gable edge and is trimmed off.
My plan to fix this is to mark a straight line and use my metal nibbler to cut the edge.
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  #950  
Old 01-15-2020, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by OldRedFord View Post
My plan to fix this is to mark a straight line and use my metal nibbler to cut the edge.
Don't let that bother you,thats all ego.
You have way too much to do to worry about that edge.
My opinion of course.
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