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  #21  
Old 10-17-2018, 06:54 PM
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The Troybilt transmission and tine drive, are both worm gears. It runs warmer then a spur or bevel gear set would. I have been told to pay attention to running temps when changing brands or type of oil in gear boxes.
Maybe I am just paranoid about finding a compatible oil for the Horse. That tiller was my Dads. I would not want to ruin it with the wrong oil.
The other Troybilt is a 7hp Horse model, that I picked up for cheap. It needs a few parts made, a new set of tines, and a set of tires. All in all it is all there. Just some of parts are worn out.
Dan.
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  #22  
Old 10-17-2018, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
If the correct oil is getting that hot I would look for the cause before I changed lubricant.
If you were running the correct oil, that would be a prudent approach

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan View Post
The Troybilt transmission and tine drive, are both worm gears. It runs warmer then a spur or bevel gear set would. I have been told to pay attention to running temps when changing brands or type of oil in gear boxes.
Also true, but why would you increase the oil viscosity if the gear set was getting too warm?

(I am trying to get you to think?)

Higher flow will aid in transferring heat,
higher viscosity oil has more resistance to flow...
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  #23  
Old 10-17-2018, 09:27 PM
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Ron, it is no longer possible to get the "correct" oil around here. The one place that can get it needs me to buy a 15 gallon drum, they can't get it in smaller packaging. Fifteen gallons would last me about 60 years between the two machines. The only thing they were not sure of was if the oil is compatible with brass and bronze. They were checking on that last month.
But I still do not want to buy 15 gallons of 140wt oil.
Now, maybe I did not make it clear that I had used the last of the OEM oil I bought before Troybilt went out of business. Even back then trying to buy 140wt oil around here was an exercise in futility.
The heat build up in those tillers gets worse with 90wt oil, I had one here for a new depth skid bar a few years back
The owner said that the transmission got real hot. He thought that there was a problem with the drive. I asked what oil he was using in it. The answer 80-90wt gear oil. I made the new depth skid bar, flushed the trans with solvent and refilled it with 140wt. Then ran the tiller for two hours, it was warm but not hot. I told him to get some 140wt oil from his brother.
The 8hp Horse is my main tiller with a Pony as my cultivator. The 7hp Horse will be back up, just in case.
With the proper oil and fill level they last a very long time.
Ron we had a problematic gear box on a cardboard baler, it would heat up and start to leak oil all over the floor. The fix was to put in new seals and heavier oil. It seemed to cure its problem
Dan.
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  #24  
Old 10-17-2018, 11:14 PM
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Automotive gear oil is not worm gear oil. You have worm gears you have to
use worm gear oil, and hope the gears are not destroyed by using the wrong
oil all these years.

You have the use the right oil...

SAE 90, SAE 140, SAE 250 are only viscosity specifications it has nothing to
do with the application of the oil.
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  #25  
Old 10-18-2018, 04:20 AM
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Ron, when I had the opportunity to purchase the oil from Troybilt, I bought a case of 12 quarts. It lasted me until the spring of 2017.
Now I have enough hours on the last oil change, that it needs changed. I have looked h high and low locally for a compatible oil but as said before, no one is sure of what they are selling. The two places locally that sell to industry will not deal with a gallon or two a year buyer. They want to sell coolants at a few hundred to several thousand gallons a year. I can understand not wanting to handle small quantities.
But that still leaves me shy a quart of oil for the tiller.
Dan
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  #26  
Old 10-18-2018, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan View Post
Ron, if I understand this correctly, SAE 140wt equals ISO 460.
So I pertaining to the link Cutter posted I could run Mobil SHC 643 Synthetic Base Oil in the gear box and transmission in my Troybilt Horse tiller.
Or am I completely wrong?
Dan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
The SAE 140 overlaps ISO 320/460/680,
but 460 is pretty much in the middle of the SAE 140.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan View Post
Thanks Ron.
I will order some and try it out next year. I will keep an eye on housing temps. If I think it is too hot I will move up to the next ISO number.
Dan
Dan, You answered your own questions and are correct, maybe I was not
clear about that part, since I didn't call you an idiot for picking the wrong
one.

Mobil SHC 634 Synthetic Gear Oil is the correct first choice. (I fixed your typos)

https://www.mcmaster.com/mobil-shc-634-oil

What I was trying to point out, was if you have the correct oil, but you are
still getting too hot, going to a higher viscosity grade will likely make the
heat issue worse, not better. With the correct oil you might want to go
down a viscosity grade.

Higher viscosity does not mean better lubrication.
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  #27  
Old 10-18-2018, 10:27 AM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Dan, You answered your own questions and are correct, maybe I was not
clear about that part, since I didn't call you an idiot for picking the wrong
one.

Mobil SHC 634 Synthetic Gear Oil is the correct first choice. (I fixed your typos)

https://www.mcmaster.com/mobil-shc-634-oil

What I was trying to point out, was if you have the correct oil, but you are
still getting too hot, going to a higher viscosity grade will likely make the
heat issue worse, not better. With the correct oil you might want to go
down a viscosity grade.

Higher viscosity does not mean better lubrication.
Ron, I might not have been clear on some points, also.
Now we have it sorted out, I will order a gallon of that oil for servicing it in the spring.
Now I understand what you were trying to tell about the viscosity ratings. I will remember that.
As to the typo's , big fingers and small touch screen pad makes for them
One thing I have learned about the Troybilt tiller is they do not like 80-90wt oil. They will tolerate 90wt for a little while but will start leaking oil from just about every seal sooner rather than later. I have one Horse that the P.O. ran it to just about destruction, the seals were all leaking to the point it would not hold oil for more then five minutes. The worm gear for the tine drive was worn almost to a wire edge, the wheel drive gears looked like a rat had chewed on them for a few weeks the worm was skipping teeth but what stopped him from using it anymore was a $5 needle valve in the carburetor. The little rubber tip got knocked off and the carb would flood out. A friend bought it to fix up, but decided the cost of parts made it a non starter. I got it as a trade for some welding I did for him. There is a lot of good parts there yet.
I will have to bring it home one of these days.
Dan
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Tools to Men are like Shoes to Women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure anyway you look at them !!
Miller XMT-304 Multiprocess
Miller 10-E Wire Feeder
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Hobart AC/DC stick welder
Hobart 175 Mig
Craftsman O/A set
Turbo torch and B-tank
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