Stripped splines.

[Grizz]

I have a well used Bucher TM -850 , sold in north america as a Jacobsen G 4x4 Plus . the input spline on the belt adapter stripped out, mostly the female side. the new generation of parts desk people just give blank looks. it is 3/4''26 spline, so far no luck finding a replacement socket. I have wrapped the shaft in hard shim stock and pressed it back together.
What do you think the chances of success are?? one other thought that crossed my mind is to make a collar , heat the collar to soft and press it on to the shaft, hoping that , A it would broach splines into the collar, and as the collar cooled it would release enough that I could remove it and weld it in place of the stripped socket.

[LKeithR]

First off, what machine are we talking about? Those names and numbers mean nothing to me. A better description also makes it easier to find this thread later is someone else has a similar problem.

In my experience, once splines are compromised, you ultimately will have to replace them with new parts. A cobbled together fix is unlikely to last very long. Of course it depends on the torque load; perhaps you can run the machine (whatever it does) at reduced capacity to help the repair last.

Are the parts easy to access? Or do you have to tear it half apart to get at them? How often to you use the machine? These can also be determining factors when you consider how to repair the unit.

Your heated socket idea might work if you make it oversize on the OD and a very tight fit on the splines, press it on, heat it red hot and then hammer fit it (as in blacksmith style forging). Once that's done if you can turn the sleeve down to fit where it belongs you might have a durable repair. Another idea might be to pin the sleeve to the shaft.

A couple pictures of the assembly would also help...

[Matt Shade]

Pic is from google. I have never seen one of these in my life. Interesting machine for sure.


I'd need to see pics of the actual parts to give any input on fixing it.

Google suggests there is a forum specific to these machines, you may find someone that has had a similar problem there.

I'd probably be looking for a way to replace the ends if you can't replace the whole shafts.

[Grizz]

thanks for posting the picture Matt, It is a 32 engine horsepower european low profile tractor, I did the forum search, it would appear that the spline size is this machine only, I cant weld or pin the shaft due to the design unless I make a bunch of other changes. the engine sits "backwards" in the chassis and is belt driven after the clutch, to the belt pulley adapter in question. I am going to re install the assembly and try it gently, to see what happens. If that fails I will post pictures of the assembly to clarify

[Whitetrash]

You might try these folks. If they don't have what you need they may be able to locate something. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/

[greywynd]

Heating and pressing something on I can’t see working well. As it cools it will shrink, ID as well, making it tighter onto the shaft.

It is something that could be rebuilt with weld and splines recut though. One application where a shaper would be useful for sure. Depending on the size, welding the ID may need to be done with a bore welder though instead of by hand.

If it’s splined, there is meant to be movement along them for some reason.

Another option would be to repurpose something. Think of a transmission input shaft and clutch hub, tractor PTO parts and the like.


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[Grizz]

Originally Posted by Whitetrash

You might try these folks. If they don't have what you need they may be able to locate something. https://www.baumhydraulics.com/

if / when my parch fails I might be able to weld a lovejoy type coupler on both sides . thanks for the link

[Grizz]

Originally Posted by greywynd

Heating and pressing something on I can’t see working well. As it cools it will shrink, ID as well, making it tighter onto the shaft.

It is something that could be rebuilt with weld and splines recut though. One application where a shaper would be useful for sure. Depending on the size, welding the ID may need to be done with a bore welder though instead of by hand.

If it’s splined, there is meant to be movement along them for some reason.

Another option would be to repurpose something. Think of a transmission input shaft and clutch hub, tractor PTO parts and the like.


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I think the reason for the spline is that the shaft was originally designed to go into a clutch disk for some other application. If my shimstock patch fails I will take it apart and post pictures.

[Ironman]

I would not wait for failure. I would suggest a dutch key in 3 equal distant positions on the shaft. You can probably drill with a hand drill and thread them as long as your shim stays tight.

[Grizz]

I guess it would be the most logical to pull it apart while the assembly is still out of the machine, and post pictures so that my quest become clearer, and then go with the suggestions.