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  #21  
Old 05-24-2019, 07:32 PM
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terry lingle terry lingle is offline
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because the parent metal is aluminum you need to be careful not to over weld or you might melt some of the AL above the broken bolt then the problem woill get worse.
If you have enough room You can make a copper or brass sleeve to keep the weld heat away from the AL.
I have used a bigger rod got the weld done and switched off the welder with the rod still in the puddlet hen removed the brass sleeve and used vice grips to turn the broken bolt and remove it.
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  #22  
Old 05-24-2019, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
because the parent metal is aluminum you need to be careful not to over weld or you might melt some of the AL above the broken bolt then the problem woill get worse.
If you have enough room You can make a copper or brass sleeve to keep the weld heat away from the AL.
I have used a bigger rod got the weld done and switched off the welder with the rod still in the puddlet hen removed the brass sleeve and used vice grips to turn the broken bolt and remove it.
I have done the same using a steel pipe and weld the pipe to the bolt, it depends how big the bolt is. I got every thing ready and had some one turn the welder on and welded the pipe to the bolt. I used 1/8" 6010
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  #23  
Old 05-24-2019, 08:23 PM
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I would look at using a sleeve to protect the threads, and drilling out the centre of the bolt. If you can get that pilot hole through the bolt, penetrating oil can work from both sides. After that has some time to work, either continue drilling out to tap size then retapping, or if you’re brave, try an ez-out. Whatever you do, don’t break that off!!


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  #24  
Old 05-25-2019, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
I would look at using a sleeve to protect the threads, and drilling out the centre of the bolt. If you can get that pilot hole through the bolt, penetrating oil can work from both sides. After that has some time to work, either continue drilling out to tap size then retapping, or if you’re brave, try an ez-out. Whatever you do, don’t break that off!!


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I've got a set of bits for cutting out easy outs but prefer not to use them or easy outs if I don't have to.

The bolt is broken off way down the hole and yep someone else tried to remove it and fudges it all up so there are no threads for the first inch and a half plus drilled off center and split the side out of it.

So it is at this point a total Cluster fudge... And I was looking for maybe an easier way to get the remaining part of the Stainless bolt out.

this is the part that bolts the cylinders to the case and the guy does not want to split the cylinders of the case to do this repair... So I might just have to walk away from it as all the others did... and just tell him when he decides to use his head and have that screwed on straight then come see me...
As it is looking more like the only option I'll have at this point...
Sometimes it doesn't pay to deal with stubborn pigheaded people.
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  #25  
Old 05-25-2019, 01:28 AM
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LKeithR LKeithR is offline
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...So do handcuffs, but sometimes she loses the key
Yeah, and you don't need any more handicaps now do you?

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Originally Posted by RED caddy View Post
...I only seem to get those jobs AFTER some other clown has failed...
Sadly, that's been the case for many of the repairs we've encountered...

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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
...it is the heat-cool cycle that loosens the broken bolt not any particular rod...
Yup, I've removed more than one broken bolt/stud with 6011. Freeze the rod to the stud and twist it out...

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Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Shhhhh I want to see them waste their money....


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Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
...I would look at using a sleeve to protect the threads...
That can work with larger bolts--there's a limit to how small you can go. I've machined up sleeves that just fit down the hole and then plunged in a rod. Make the sleeve so it sticks up above the surface of the workpiece and you can usually grab it with vice-grips and twist the broken bolt out.

To be fair though, there's never a guarantee when removing broken bolts or studs. Sometimes they'll come out real easy while other times you may not have any success at all. Sometimes ya gotta know when to punt...
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  #26  
Old 05-25-2019, 11:25 AM
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I only seem to get those jobs AFTER some other clown has failed.
RED
Yup, those are expensive. I have said more than once,
"Don't try to fix it yourself, just bring it here, it will be cheaper..."
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  #27  
Old 05-25-2019, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
...this is the part that bolts the cylinders to the case and the guy does not want to split the cylinders of the case to do this repair... So I might just have to walk away from it as all the others did...
Walk away...

Some customers think they are smarter than you and because they are paying you, they can tell you how to do things. I will NEVER quote a time on repairing someone else's fuckup and have turned away more than I've attempted.

I have a car in the shop I'm working on for my neighbor "as a favor". Trying to get the A/C working. Main problem is the cooling fans aren't coming on and the two are controlled by a cooling fan control module. Instead of properly diagnosing the module (probably bad, but pricey) they have run a wire to the A/C clutch and removed the A/C pressure switch. I determined one of the fans was bad and decided to take a break from it...

This is a $1000 car she is trying to turn into a $2000 car with working A/C. Working A/C cars will demand a premium, even if they are shitboxes. She already owes me $120 for repairing a couple cooling connections and charging a beat battery numerous useless times after telling them it is bad. "Oh keep charging it, it will come around"... A good used battery solved the electrical issues.
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  #28  
Old 05-25-2019, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
Walk away...

Some customers think they are smarter than you and because they are paying you, they can tell you how to do things. I will NEVER quote a time on repairing someone else's fuckup and have turned away more than I've attempted.

I have a car in the shop I'm working on for my neighbor "as a favor". Trying to get the A/C working. Main problem is the cooling fans aren't coming on and the two are controlled by a cooling fan control module. Instead of properly diagnosing the module (probably bad, but pricey) they have run a wire to the A/C clutch and removed the A/C pressure switch. I determined one of the fans was bad and decided to take a break from it...

This is a $1000 car she is trying to turn into a $2000 car with working A/C. Working A/C cars will demand a premium, even if they are shitboxes. She already owes me $120 for repairing a couple cooling connections and charging a beat battery numerous useless times after telling them it is bad. "Oh keep charging it, it will come around"... A good used battery solved the electrical issues.
Yep, he called just before lunchtime wanting to drop it off... So I told him I'm not interested in doing it unless he is willing to separate the cylinders from the case... even then it looks like it will be a big hassle. But was willing to take it in if he removes the cylinders first but that still a no go for him...

He doesn't want to do that because he's no mechanic and doesn't know how to remove the cylinders from the case and even if he could he prolly could not put it back together and said the case gasket was 20 dollars and that was too expensive...

I was going to offer to do all the labor R&R but then the big red light came on when he said that a 20 dollar gasket was too expensive.

I figured it out Ricky Tick he is a cheap bastard and sure as heck wasn't going to want to pay the labor for the extra work so I did not even offer after that...

I'm sure he will try someone else don't know who because all the other machine shops who do this sort of work turned him away because it was so messed up and he would not split the cylinders from the case for them either...

So I had another client who wanted some minor stuff done this morning needed an oil sending unit replaced but instead I installed a manual oil pressure gauge kit for her, after doing a manual test to show her its the sending unit and dummy light, not her oil pump... Then Degreased the engine and cleaned up the install and she drove off happy and I made a few bucks for the tool addiction fund...

The sad thing was she had this jeep at the dealership twice and replaced the sending unit twice and then at another shop and they replaced the sending unit twice all in a five-week span and all ended up being no good...

So I said it is possible the parts are just junk and failing but could be an issue elsewhere and the best way around it if you don't want to track down the issue, Is get rid of the dummy light and install a manual gauge and be done with your worry that it's got no oil pressure... She agreed and was happy...
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  #29  
Old 05-28-2019, 08:01 AM
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So, I walked away from this. I first asked him again to separate the cylinder from the case, no can do he say... so, I say. I no can do... sI-ya-Nara buddy.
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  #30  
Old 05-28-2019, 09:21 PM
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RED caddy RED caddy is offline
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I just used my 6011 and masking tape trick on 3 under flush exhaust studs. Had to use a piece of brass tubing and 1/16"- 6011 on a head bolt in an aluminum block. Worked slick.

Now that I have a "project" in the bay, I don't feel bad sending the "cheap bastards" or the "I need a favor" folks that I only see when they need something, never around to give me a hand, even when asked, down the road to the next poor dumb bastard that works for free.

Now don't misunderstand, I've given away way more neighborhood work than I ever got paid for, I just don't like being played by folks that have no respect for me.

RED
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