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  #11  
Old 12-31-2018, 03:32 PM
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I only seem to get those jobs AFTER some other clown has failed.

Those I charge double and use masking taped 1/16th 6011.

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What I really need to know is, WHEN DOES THE SHOOTING START?
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2018, 06:31 PM
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I use the mig to weld them out.
works every time.
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2018, 06:48 PM
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any welding process should work as long as you do not weld damage the hole.
it is the heat-cool cycle that loosens the broken bolt not any particular rod.
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Last edited by terry lingle; 12-31-2018 at 09:53 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:59 PM
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Yep it stores good. Expensive but handy to have around. Works good for welding puller arms to bearing races too
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2019, 01:56 PM
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Ok, guys, Dumb question here ran into a situation where I have a stainless bolt broke off deep into an aluminum block. Is there a rod like this to use for this prosses??

I am in unfamiliar territory here with the Aluminum block and SS bolt.

I need to remove the bolt and then after the bolt is removed, weld up/fill the hole and drill and re-tap.

Just looking for another way around having to drill out the SS bolt.
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  #16  
Old 05-24-2019, 04:28 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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I had a friend who busted off a hardened steel bolt in an aluminum block once. In this case it was still above the surface of the hole. We PB Blasted it and tapped on it some lightly with a hammer. Then I slipped a slightly oversized 304 stainless nut over what was left of the bolt. I TIG welded it on being sure to really cook it together. We tapped on it a little more with a hammer as it cooled and kept adding penetrating oil. Once it was relatively cool it came out with relative ease.

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  #17  
Old 05-24-2019, 04:30 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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Rod I used was 316 stainless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
I had a friend who busted off a hardened steel bolt in an aluminum block once. In this case it was still above the surface of the hole. We PB Blasted it and tapped on it some lightly with a hammer. Then I slipped a slightly oversized 304 stainless nut over what was left of the bolt. I TIG welded it on being sure to really cook it together. We tapped on it a little more with a hammer as it cooled and kept adding penetrating oil. Once it was relatively cool it came out with relative ease.

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  #18  
Old 05-24-2019, 05:02 PM
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hat size bolt? Is it corroded? How deep?
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
any welding process should work as long as you do not weld damage the hole.
it is the heat-cool cycle that loosens the broken bolt not any particular rod.
Shhhhh I want to see them waste their money....

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  #20  
Old 05-24-2019, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
hat size bolt? Is it corroded? How deep?
Have to check the bolt but its a head bolt in an outboard v6 Evinrude engine it broke about a 1-1/2" in the hole so it's going to be tough to get to.
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