Shop Floor Talk  

Go Back   Shop Floor Talk > Welding and Metalworking Forums > Welding

SFT Search:   
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 03-23-2019, 05:10 PM
diyjoe diyjoe is offline
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Default

Thank you all for these valuable insights. I honestly had no idea it was so involved, or so risky. I guess all the videos I've seen they make it look so easy. I'll be taking it to a shop to have it done for sure. Does anyone know of a good shop in the Phoenix area that does good chassis weld work? If not, no worries, you've all been plenty helpful already.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-23-2019, 05:50 PM
mccutter's Avatar
mccutter mccutter is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 8,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyjoe View Post
I'm looking to weld some sub-frame connectors on to my car's uni-body front & rear sub-frames, to strengthen it, and was wondering if anyone can recommend an affordable (most affordable if possible) welder for a complete noob (never touched a welder before), that can get the job done. Planning to get plenty of practice before doing this project.
You would need AT LEAST few hours of arc time before attempting this, IMO. Someone to teach you would be best, even a friend or uncle.

By the time you buy a small MIG, wire, helmet, gloves, a tank of gas, grinder, etc. you will have spent $800ish. That would be for a new Chinee/Indee welder or a used Miller/Lincoln. If you think you will using a welder on a regular basis, then purchase it.

Otherwise, pay someone to do the welding for you. If you get everything set up and blocked up and sanded where necessary, I don't see a "friend" charging you more than $100. You can save for a welder later...

BTW, Welcome Aboard!
__________________

TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-23-2019, 06:37 PM
MetalWolf's Avatar
MetalWolf MetalWolf is offline
Lubrication Consultant
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: La Vernia,Tx.
Posts: 3,237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyjoe View Post
Thank you all for these valuable insights. I honestly had no idea it was so involved, or so risky. I guess all the videos I've seen they make it look so easy. I'll be taking it to a shop to have it done for sure. Does anyone know of a good shop in the Phoenix area that does good chassis weld work? If not, no worries, you've all been plenty helpful already.
There is bound to be a good, performance or speed shop in Phoenix that could do it but I would look more towards family or friend who welds you might know and ask them first, but stress to them if they are not sure then only other, option for you is a shop you should also check with shops who specialize in auto body with a frame machine if they do any framework they surely could weld it up for you much cheaper than a speed shop or performance shop would cost...

Sorry, we can't be of much more help. If you were local, I'd offer to do it. but its a pretty good click from where you're at...

So what is ya dropping in the ride? that will require the need for a subframe? If you don't mind me asking.
__________________
MetalWolf, AKA---- Metallic Shapeshifter-----

I Have Only One Wish, To Achieve "Pura Vida" In All That I Do!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-24-2019, 04:05 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Suburban Detroit Mi
Posts: 1,239
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyjoe View Post
I guess all the videos I've seen they make it look so easy. I'll be taking it to a shop to have it done for sure.
It is easy, after you spend the time learning how to do it. What happened to your comment in post number one? "Planning to get plenty of practice before doing this project."

I worked in four different collision shops for eight years, having one do it is no guarantee it will be done right.
__________________
A technologically advanced society would teach their children how to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together before teaching them how to use a lighter.

Aren't energy consumption and computers supposed to make life less stressful?

If you are not having fun then you are doing it wrong.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-24-2019, 09:45 AM
Walker's Avatar
Walker Walker is offline
Standard of Excellence
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cave Creek AZ
Posts: 4,357
Default

These days you will pay a mint to get a crappy job unless you get really lucky. I don’t generally take on this type of work but I might be convinced to give you some guidance. Send me a PM and we can chat.
__________________
Walker
Chief slag chipper and floor sweeper, Ironwood Artistic
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 03-27-2019, 06:46 PM
diyjoe diyjoe is offline
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Default

Will be swapping in a LS engine (probably a 6.0 Liter) with a big cam, which should put out 400+ RWHP. The car has T-tops (wish it were a hardtop), so the frame is flimsy and prone to twisting. The current engine is a stock 305 c.i, w/215 HP (guessing that is at the crank too)... very sluggish. Most T-top models got the puny 305 due to the weaker frame.

The project is on a fairly tight schedule (weekends), so learning to weld (and become a good one at that) isn't going to fit into my plan after all, especially while having to learn to do a swap for the first time. Would rather find someone experienced with this type of work. Car has too much sentimental value.

Good to know there is a great community here for when the next project comes that I'm not so concerned about screwing up myself.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-28-2019, 01:40 AM
MetalWolf's Avatar
MetalWolf MetalWolf is offline
Lubrication Consultant
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: La Vernia,Tx.
Posts: 3,237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyjoe View Post
Will be swapping in a LS engine (probably a 6.0 Liter) with a big cam, which should put out 400+ RWHP. The car has T-tops (wish it were a hardtop), so the frame is flimsy and prone to twisting. The current engine is a stock 305 c.i, w/215 HP (guessing that is at the crank too)... very sluggish. Most T-top models got the puny 305 due to the weaker frame.

The project is on a fairly tight schedule (weekends), so learning to weld (and become a good one at that) isn't going to fit into my plan after all, especially while having to learn to do a swap for the first time. Would rather find someone experienced with this type of work. Car has too much sentimental value.

Good to know there is a great community here for when the next project comes that I'm not so concerned about screwing up myself.
Walker. Is right about paying a king's ransom to some shops and getting a shit job... So use caution in choosing the right shop but at the same time be more cautious of the shops who offer a too good "To be True" price as well but don't discount the little guys like me. who work out of their house shop/residential businesses either... Most walk away from me "Not" because they think, I don't know what I'm doing, but because I'm by No means cheap! And have a very good reputation in my work... but I'm not going to give it away either...

So shop around before you jump into it... as an example, I had a customer after the fact! who took his very sentimental convertible '68 Firebird to one of the (best shops around) To have IMO some very simple work done to it.

Front and rear floor pans, trunk pan and inner quarters/shock mount towers
minor repair job... took him 14 months to get his car back...

The paint job which was new, prior to taking it in, was ruined and when they cut out the floor pans and trunk pan they used an O/A torch to cut old ones out WTF!... And while in doing so they had cut through the unibody chassis/frame and then did a shit job of welding in the new floor pans he bought for it without fitting them, And just fudged them all to hell...

He finally got his car back... He dropped his engine and trans in.... and later started to notice when he would try to open the doors it was becoming harder and harder till one time he went to open the door and it was bound so bad you couldn't get it open...

This shop was DOT certified to do framework... I am as well but without it here, There is just too much liability...

Anyway,'s they had cut off the uni-frame just behind the front seat and so the car started to fold/sag... and when it was delivered here and we got the doors open, It dam near folded in half from the damage they had done to it...
It took me roughly three weeks to repair the damage and fab out a custom subframe to support it even that much more... in total about 6 weeks of work.

The guy had serious doubts when I told him I could repair it... told him not to worry It, "ain't nothing but a chicken wing" and when he came back after it was done he was dam near in tears... and then had me redo the paint job for him... I think there is a thread with pic's on here somewhere maybe...

anyway back in the day, we use to build all our subframes and roll cages now they can be bought fairly cheap from jegs and other places as a package deal pre-fit and ready to install... heck we also would fab out our own scatter shields... never worried about that stuff before, Until one day out on a test run his clutch blew apart and mutilated his legs he lost both because of it...
One of my personal experiences was which prompted me to us the use of safety straps on the drive shaft was out drag racing one night and after the 5 or 6th race was headed back to the party spot and screwing around and my front yoke and u-joint scattered and driveshaft came through the floorboard and broke my passengers tail bone and fractured his hip... that happened with a small engine pumping out only 485 HP.

So my point with all this if your going to put that much HP in a street rod keep all the what if's safety factors and the quality of parts you put into it, in mind when building it...
__________________
MetalWolf, AKA---- Metallic Shapeshifter-----

I Have Only One Wish, To Achieve "Pura Vida" In All That I Do!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-28-2019, 08:18 AM
Camaro Zach's Avatar
Camaro Zach Camaro Zach is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Alvin Texas
Posts: 687
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by diyjoe View Post
Will be swapping in a LS engine (probably a 6.0 Liter) with a big cam, which should put out 400+ RWHP. The car has T-tops (wish it were a hardtop), so the frame is flimsy and prone to twisting. The current engine is a stock 305 c.i, w/215 HP (guessing that is at the crank too)... very sluggish. Most T-top models got the puny 305 due to the weaker frame.

The project is on a fairly tight schedule (weekends), so learning to weld (and become a good one at that) isn't going to fit into my plan after all, especially while having to learn to do a swap for the first time. Would rather find someone experienced with this type of work. Car has too much sentimental value.

Good to know there is a great community here for when the next project comes that I'm not so concerned about screwing up myself.
If you have any ls swap questions I might be able to help. Swapped a few over the years
__________________
Buggy
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Web Search:

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.