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  #11  
Old 10-14-2018, 02:49 PM
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I'm not sure but I think both needs to be in play. Pulling on the taper
and butting up on the flat part of the spindle. I agree that the accuracy
comes from the taper but it's just too short for preventing wobble.
I don't have run out, I have wobble. I can see the chuck wobbling
depending on how it was pulled on the taper. Above a pic of the back of
the chuck after bluing. Clearly show that there is no complete contact
on the back surface. Looking at the spindle the surface is ground indicating
it's for some register purposes (I guess).
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2018, 02:53 PM
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One other thing, When I seat the chuck I start with the closest stud, do not
pull tight til I get around the the other 2. Than go around 1 or 2 more time
snugging them up. I do not use excessive force just what the chuck key
allows. NO cheater bar on the chuck key..
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2018, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
I blued up
the spindle and see the results. Also when it's up I can fit in a 0.03mm
filler gauge in the gap.
I don't know much about the D chucks

0.03mm = 0.00118
I would think that is about right.

As a test make a shim and see what that does for run-out, wobble.
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2018, 03:19 PM
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Another thing is try the fit without the pins.
use the tail-stock and a block of wood then push the chuck without the pins, check the gap.

Also you need to check run-out with something precision in the chuck don't rely on the outside looks.
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2018, 03:36 PM
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The pics of the wobble. No run out on the back of the chuck.
5 Thou. on the front and about 12 on the end of a short
ground round. That's what happen if there is a 0.03 mm gap
on one side. Remember that I had 1 Thou. total run out before I
beat off this 3 jaw. The spindle has 0 run out and the 4 jaw is
doing the same thing. (Chinese lathe syndrome?)


I'll try some really thin shims and see.
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  #16  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:10 AM
Farmersamm Farmersamm is offline
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I don't know shit about this style chuck so I started with the basics.

Mounting the thing.

https://youtu.be/EdCCyv0dcP0

Adjusting the lock pins. STARTS AT MINUTE 24 ON THE VIDEO.

https://youtu.be/He-DlDJKYKw
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  #17  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:18 AM
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Well, after putting in 0.08 mm shims under all 3 studs the chuck
pulled up just right. 0 run out, no wobble. I guess it's verified that
we have here a CLS. I'm still debating on how to go about fixing
this issue. I may try to polish out the chuck taper. I do not want
to dick with the spindle..
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2018, 12:16 PM
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Rather than possibly screwing a chuck or spindle if happy with Zero run out I would think about leaving those shims as part of that chuck assembly and not do anything else .
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  #19  
Old 10-15-2018, 03:20 PM
Rob65 Rob65 is offline
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Bubba,

Could you explain where you put the shims pls. Are they like washers places over each stud?

Have you tried screwing the studs into the chuck one more turn?

Also I am wondering if the back end of the studs are bottoming out in the spindle pockets. Can’t think why they would but it could cause the situation I think you have described?

Rob


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  #20  
Old 10-15-2018, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob65 View Post
Bubba,

Could you explain where you put the shims pls. Are they like washers places over each stud?

Have you tried screwing the studs into the chuck one more turn?

Also I am wondering if the back end of the studs are bottoming out in the spindle pockets. Can’t think why they would but it could cause the situation I think you have described?

Rob


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I used a dab of grease and stuck them right by the studs.
No other method seem to help. Trust me I've tried everything.
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