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#11
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#12
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You're like the wife, you should have said so...
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__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#13
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Not me...I would improve it.
The foot pedal that raises the top insulating bar, I would make it in sections (1 firebrick for each section). So you stomp on the pedal, up goes the main bar, raising each section (use some 3/8 chain here, short pieces 6" long maybe) and put piece in/on/over slot with fire. Slowly let bar down, some firebricks go all the way down, others rest on top of piece, each sort of roughly molding around the part to keep as much heat in as possible. Also, not a single long row, make a front and back row to work with ends of bars (piece in back of bar end will go all the way down.) |
#14
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Way, way back when I was in IL. I found this place.
ARMIL C.F.S., Inc. 15660 LaSalle Street South Holland, IL 60473 Phone: 708.339.6810 Fax: 708.339.0517 Toll Free: 800.565.0306 Look around on their site they have different shapes and sizes of bricks. It's a crematorium supply place.
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Nuke em til they glow then shoot em in the dark. |
#15
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Forget the site: https://www.armilcfs.com/
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Nuke em til they glow then shoot em in the dark. |
#16
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Thank you sir, and not too far away! I will call them tomorrow.
__________________
Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#17
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If you wanted to heat small parts you had to leave them clamped in a set of tongs and leave the tongs in the forge/on the hearth as there isn't anyway to put small parts in without them dropping down inside onto the burner and its hell to dig them out with the fire going. The professor was not happy at how fast the tongs got burnt up and worn out. If a guy wanted to make a run of simple things like gate hooks or cold chisels you could stage 3 or 4 parts across the forge and have somewhat of an assembly line going . It worked well for having a 16 students sharing 2 forges, but I wouldn't want one of these in my home shop.
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Handcrafted Leather |
#18
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Tnx for the write up Matt, I've always wondered about those.
I'm used to seeing a local forge shop (as you drive by they got the doors open) and have the "pigeonhole" style furnaces for the ends of bars. |
#19
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I think its a rather specialized set up. If you were making fence pickets with twisted baskets or something and wanted to lay 6 of them across there and just heat where you were putting the twists it would be awesome. If you were making horseshoes there is nothing to sit them on while they are heating and you either have to leave your tongs in there with a band on the handles holding them shut or go fishing all the time. I think a traditional forge with a cylindrical firebox and adjustable doors on the ends is the most versatile, especially if you can put a big enough shelf on the font of it to hold up longer bars.
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Handcrafted Leather |
#20
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My old mankel blown forge was a bottom burner. I made it into a top burner for that very reason.
firebrick the hard stuff takes a very long time to heat up in a forge.. the newer light bricks heat up fast as does Koawool coated with a product. I'm found of blown forges myself from a gas savings stand point.. Induced forges do use quite a bit of gas, but they have also come a long ways. today a homemade forge can out heat a factory made one pretty easy and can be custom shaped for nearly anything. Shade still waiting on more photos.
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_________________ Jennifer If I defend myself I am attacked. My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world. My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability. I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself. ![]() My google+ page DoALL 36" Another Johnson model J Project Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13" Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase. https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums...860#post766860 |
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